R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-11-2008, 06:26 PM   #25111
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 5,058
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Congrat's on your move to a Schuie. The Mi2 is a awesome car. Mi3 is even better. I still have my Mi2. If you need anything, feel free to ask. This is a great thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jheimb4897 View Post
I have been a Tamiya nerd all my life, but an opportunity came up that I just couldn't refuse. I just got 2 Schumacher Mi2's for $40 (gotta love the sponsored guys who get free stuff all the time), one set up for carpet, one set up for asphalt. In addition to that, all the spares that I could ever use, including two BMI upper decks. I just ran the asphalt car, and I must say, this is by far the most smooth and well rounded car I have ever driven. Not to mention how forgiving it was. I could drive the car in any fashion I wish and it was still like it was on rails. Anyone out there with an Mi2 still? Any tips or anything like that?

I know what my next purchase is going to be. I definately want to keep Schumacher in my fleet, so the TRF416 is going to have to wait. The Mi3 seems like one of the most refined cars money can buy, and their fit and finish is unparalleld. European engineering at it's finest. So the TRF415MSX and the Mi2 (soon to be Mi3) are my racecars. The only reason I still keep the Tamiya is for TCS.

Jeez, I wish I could have seen the light sooner.
__________________
Steve Walter
Sweep Racing USA/ Speed Passion USA/ Karens Famous Cookies (Transporter)
SRW141 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2008, 02:57 AM   #25112
Tech Addict
 
Wicksy1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Bendigo
Posts: 688
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by abailey21 View Post
Good cause I'm clocking in at about 1200 Grams right now


Anyone just have a brick I could duct tape to the top of my body?
YGPM
__________________
That'll do donkey, That'll do.
Wicksy1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2008, 09:59 AM   #25113
Tech Master
 
Mr. McGoo's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 1,627
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Who all here is planning on going to the Carpet Nats?

I know myself and Marker will be heading that way.....
__________________
Schumacher USA | SpeedMerchant | Team Tekin | eXpress | Parma/PSE | KOPROPO America | Team Tamale | Liposack.com
~Team McGoo - Not sure of next big race - A-Main or Bust!!!!
~~McGoo Creations - PM me for for a custom quote
Mr. McGoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2008, 10:01 AM   #25114
Tech Master
 
Big Features's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Currituck, North Carolina
Posts: 1,879
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Wish I could

Looks they are running 17.5 brushless in sedan in Hawaii
__________________
Mike Kling
Team Associated REEDY Powered
JConcepts TXD Skin Graphix
Big Features is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2008, 10:38 AM   #25115
Tech Adept
 
MadBrushRacing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Surrey
Posts: 117
Default

Hi

Ran my MI3 for the second time outside and I must say its the best I have had any car working @ www.wlrc.co.uk.

Qualified 4th but had an issue in the first final which I thought was a dead motor, turned out in the second final it was a dodgy bearing. It had seized and melted my steering knuckle.

My only problem was I had excessive tyre wear on the front left mainly caused by the long right handed sweeper. Is there anything I could change in my attached setup to make the wear a bit less?

Forgot to put on the sheet that I used the short steering plate.

Thanks for any help given.

Tony
Attached Files
File Type: pdf MI3 WL 19T 100208.pdf (238.1 KB, 129 views)
MadBrushRacing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2008, 04:56 PM   #25116
Tech Elite
 
Skiddins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Windsor, UK
Posts: 4,655
Default

Hi all,

Some setup help needed;

I was running at West London, same as Tony above, and have had a problem with snap oversteer coming out of some corners.

My setup is very similar to the one Tony has posted above except; both diffs high, 1.5mm vertical spacers front and rear, 35W oil front and rear, 290g springs front & rear, 0.5mm above rear alloy hubs.

What do you all suggest I try first?

Tony, my front left got chewed when I was using Sorex 28's, I think it was just a little too warm for them (or too much heat from tyre warmers).

Thanks
Skiddins
__________________
Xray T4'17, T4'14 (Wet Car)
Xray X12 2017
Xray X1'16
wlrc.co.uk (West London Racing Centre)
RCDisco.co.uk
Skiddins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2008, 05:05 PM   #25117
Tech Master
 
Big Features's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Currituck, North Carolina
Posts: 1,879
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Looking at the set up sheet, nothing really seems out of the ordinary.
You may be overheating the tires, Try a harder tire. I would also try some more rear toe. That will clam the rear down, You can also try leaning the rear shock in one hole
__________________
Mike Kling
Team Associated REEDY Powered
JConcepts TXD Skin Graphix
Big Features is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2008, 05:16 PM   #25118
wyd
Tech Legend
 
wyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,097
Trader Rating: 50 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to wyd
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jheimb4897 View Post
I have been a Tamiya nerd all my life, but an opportunity came up that I just couldn't refuse. I just got 2 Schumacher Mi2's for $40 (gotta love the sponsored guys who get free stuff all the time), one set up for carpet, one set up for asphalt. In addition to that, all the spares that I could ever use, including two BMI upper decks. I just ran the asphalt car, and I must say, this is by far the most smooth and well rounded car I have ever driven. Not to mention how forgiving it was. I could drive the car in any fashion I wish and it was still like it was on rails. Anyone out there with an Mi2 still? Any tips or anything like that?

I know what my next purchase is going to be. I definately want to keep Schumacher in my fleet, so the TRF416 is going to have to wait. The Mi3 seems like one of the most refined cars money can buy, and their fit and finish is unparalleld. European engineering at it's finest. So the TRF415MSX and the Mi2 (soon to be Mi3) are my racecars. The only reason I still keep the Tamiya is for TCS.

Jeez, I wish I could have seen the light sooner.
Shoot me your email and I will send you s good setup to start with on your EC for asphalt at Frederick. I have one I started with that got me close and improved on it from their.
__________________
Castle Creations (Since 2005)
Bumps & Jumps RC (One of the best racing facilities around)
ST Racing Concepts (STRC) Great aluminum upgrades for many brands.
Custom Works (Best Oval Cars around). Too many titles to list
Shout out to: Sticky Kicks, CR Graphics and Race Ready Products
wyd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2008, 05:22 PM   #25119
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 5,058
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

I'll be back to racing at Frederick in March. Look me up. I will be glad to help you with setup.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jheimb4897 View Post
I have been a Tamiya nerd all my life, but an opportunity came up that I just couldn't refuse. I just got 2 Schumacher Mi2's for $40 (gotta love the sponsored guys who get free stuff all the time), one set up for carpet, one set up for asphalt. In addition to that, all the spares that I could ever use, including two BMI upper decks. I just ran the asphalt car, and I must say, this is by far the most smooth and well rounded car I have ever driven. Not to mention how forgiving it was. I could drive the car in any fashion I wish and it was still like it was on rails. Anyone out there with an Mi2 still? Any tips or anything like that?

I know what my next purchase is going to be. I definately want to keep Schumacher in my fleet, so the TRF416 is going to have to wait. The Mi3 seems like one of the most refined cars money can buy, and their fit and finish is unparalleld. European engineering at it's finest. So the TRF415MSX and the Mi2 (soon to be Mi3) are my racecars. The only reason I still keep the Tamiya is for TCS.

Jeez, I wish I could have seen the light sooner.
__________________
Steve Walter
Sweep Racing USA/ Speed Passion USA/ Karens Famous Cookies (Transporter)
SRW141 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2008, 05:22 PM   #25120
Tech Champion
 
Jon Kerr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: San Diego
Posts: 9,658
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Hi all,

Some setup help needed;

I was running at West London, same as Tony above, and have had a problem with snap oversteer coming out of some corners.

My setup is very similar to the one Tony has posted above except; both diffs high, 1.5mm vertical spacers front and rear, 35W oil front and rear, 290g springs front & rear, 0.5mm above rear alloy hubs.

What do you all suggest I try first?

Tony, my front left got chewed when I was using Sorex 28's, I think it was just a little too warm for them (or too much heat from tyre warmers).

Thanks
Skiddins
Looking at that setup sheet, I see two things. First is the rear toe. Our car seems pretty sensitive to rear toe changes on asphalt. You have quite a bit with that setup. I did a lot of testing with rear toe checking tire temps. What I found was that with more rear toe, the rear tires were heating up way too much way too quickly because they're fighting each other all the time. I ran the shims just like you have. That gives a hair over 3. My rear tires were 25F hotter than the fronts and the car was snapping loose just like you're describing. I added another 1mm shim to the forward pivot block. That gave me at little under 2.5. That wasn't enough toe. The rear wanted to step out going into the corner. But the tire temps came down drastically even though the rear was still sliding from being loose in. I went halfway and went to 2.5mm in the front block with a 1mm in the rear. This gave about 2.75. The rear tires were now 15F cooler than the fronts and the snap loose feeling went away.

The second thing is the shim under the outer rear ball stud. I'd take that out if the rear toe doesn't help.
Jon Kerr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2008, 06:47 PM   #25121
Tech Elite
 
RBLove's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 3,683
Trader Rating: 72 (100%+)
Default

Any of you know if the 10.5 SpeedPassion has adjustable timing? I found out today that the 13.5 is fixed.
__________________
RC America, Xray, Hudy, R1 Wurks, EA Motorsports, ProLevel RC, BSR Racing Tires
RBLove is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2008, 08:09 PM   #25122
Regional Moderator
 
Darkseid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: At my computer, duh...
Posts: 9,033
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr View Post
Looking at that setup sheet, I see two things. First is the rear toe. Our car seems pretty sensitive to rear toe changes on asphalt. You have quite a bit with that setup. I did a lot of testing with rear toe checking tire temps. What I found was that with more rear toe, the rear tires were heating up way too much way too quickly because they're fighting each other all the time. I ran the shims just like you have. That gives a hair over 3. My rear tires were 25F hotter than the fronts and the car was snapping loose just like you're describing. I added another 1mm shim to the forward pivot block. That gave me at little under 2.5. That wasn't enough toe. The rear wanted to step out going into the corner. But the tire temps came down drastically even though the rear was still sliding from being loose in. I went halfway and went to 2.5mm in the front block with a 1mm in the rear. This gave about 2.75. The rear tires were now 15F cooler than the fronts and the snap loose feeling went away.
Is there a chart or something out there that can tell us what toe-in we're running with what shim combo? I mean, with the Mi3, I usually have no idea what toe I'm running.
__________________
TLR 22...Tamiya F104...
Darkseid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2008, 08:23 PM   #25123
Tech Champion
 
Jon Kerr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: San Diego
Posts: 9,658
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RBLove View Post
Any of you know if the 10.5 SpeedPassion has adjustable timing? I found out today that the 13.5 is fixed.
Just glancing at it, it does look fixed. Looks like three posts holding the endbell in position. But if you're running the GT speedo, just adjust from there. That's what I've been doing and so far it;s been working great.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkseid View Post
Is there a chart or something out there that can tell us what toe-in we're running with what shim combo? I mean, with the Mi3, I usually have no idea what toe I'm running.
I just use my setup station to measure it. Just like I do for front toe. Making a chart like that would save some people a lot of time, but it would probably take a lot of time to make it up. The rule of thumb I've been using has been about .25 for every .5mm shim change on the front block. But that's not exact. And I haven't worked with the 1 rear hubs yet. I really want to get a set and test with those too to see how it works on our tight little track.
Jon Kerr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2008, 01:07 AM   #25124
Tech Adept
 
MadBrushRacing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Surrey
Posts: 117
Default

Hi Skiddins

I only had an issue with the rear when running CS22s. When I changed to Vtec 27s the car was much better.

To all

I think next time I will change the front spacer from 1mm to 0.5mm to reduce the inboard toe in. This should make the front not so aggressive and maybe reduce the front tyre wear.

Whats the benefit of the hole between the two on the steering knuckle?

Thanks
MadBrushRacing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2008, 04:52 AM   #25125
Tech Elite
 
Skiddins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Windsor, UK
Posts: 4,655
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MadBrushRacing View Post
Hi Skiddins

I only had an issue with the rear when running CS22s. When I changed to Vtec 27s the car was much better.

To all

I think next time I will change the front spacer from 1mm to 0.5mm to reduce the inboard toe in. This should make the front not so aggressive and maybe reduce the front tyre wear.

Whats the benefit of the hole between the two on the steering knuckle?

Thanks
VTEC 27's are great, but I'm saving mine for the Carpetwars 2 day event.
They are rarer than rocking horse sh*t at the mo!

Skiddins
__________________
Xray T4'17, T4'14 (Wet Car)
Xray X12 2017
Xray X1'16
wlrc.co.uk (West London Racing Centre)
RCDisco.co.uk
Skiddins is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Corner Dots anyone? RCGaryK Electric On-Road 19 07-03-2006 11:12 PM
On the Corner RC-HPI R/C Photography 0 08-02-2005 10:53 PM
Snowbirds Around the Corner scarecrow Florida Racing 20 01-27-2005 10:43 AM
1/12th Corner GT Racer Singapore R/C Racers 26 03-04-2004 06:59 AM
Shumacher Corner in Aus jamesbaxter_81 Australian Racing 6 01-08-2004 02:36 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:39 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net