Originally Posted by JayBee
With that all said and done Chris, is this the best the car has been to date (driving not factored in of course)
? Any other nuances you wanna try to get the car even better?
BTW...good job @ the 'Birds & thanks for the set-up.
thank you, and you're welcome. always trying to get every ounce out of it.
the best the car's been? um, yes and no at the same time. i've been about the same speed at every race this year. each time, i roll in with a different setup, and essentially get the same results (give or take a few spots).
it's more about how the car's doing it, not so much about how much, if that makes any sence. my cleveland setup pivots at the rear end. it feels like the rear is locked in, and the front of the car does all the moving. this recent setup, is the opposite. the small pistons bring the pivot up to around the front windshield, and i lost the wrap that i had until i put 6* blocks on it. it also steered off-power more.
none of that is good/bad in general. it has to do with the track type and how you want to drive the car. chicanes are easier with cars that pivot in the rear. those cars seem more accurate to me. carousels are usually better done with some slip in the rear end, or the car tends to go in, stop, and come out (which too much rear slip will do as well).
all of my setups tend to steer about the same for this reason. if your car pushes, you can't complete the corner with speed. if it's loose, it tends to waste speed by sliding to a momentary stop (not a full stop, but you'll see the car rotate, stop, and then drive off).
another big issue i got into at the race was about execution
. ball cups/fit. that's huge because my setups are done using very tight joints (no bind, no slop). you can't run 1 or 1.5* of front camber if your wheel slop is 1*, right? because it will preload to positive in a corner and you'll lose it all. second thing is shimming the shock pistons. if you don't put somewhere between a .005 to .010" shim on the piston before the e-clip, it will float. with the limited displacement our front shocks see, this 'skipping' feeling can actually be felt on the track. it makes for a car that works fine when driven easily, but a wrench of the wheel and out of nowhere it does something stupid in a turn where it just did the last 5 laps just fine.
so that's all i got. (which i'm guessing is plenty
) as far as future tweaks, i don't know. it's such a complex system, that i kind of pick something that i want to run on the car (whether it's diff heights, a certain roll center, or pistons) and tune the system to work with those particular elements. and you have to remember, for the big races, you're essentially 'peaking' for those exact conditions. all the club race stuff is done to get a database of what each change does (as you see it) so that it can be recalled and put into play when you're on visitors' turf.
the cool thing is that we end up with a handful of setups that should appeal to each type of driver.
- cg -
ps - hpi ball studs fit snuggly in our cups. if you sand/polish each one until it fits right (they start out too tight), you'll be done with that for a long time.
they are also the same height as ours, so you don't need to recalculate everything. i've heard the core titanium ones are good as well. people think i'm nuts, but it will only take a short evening to do the whole car, and they will last the life it. (it's this kind of stuff that makes our goofy little hobby 10x better than a video game).