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Old 11-15-2007, 12:08 PM   #23206
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what grit sandpaper was I suppose to use on the diff rings and was it suppose wet
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Old 11-15-2007, 12:35 PM   #23207
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It should be 600 sandpaper,sprey some motor cleaner on sand paper you know the rest...
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What you Clean like that?
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Old 11-15-2007, 12:42 PM   #23208
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what grit sandpaper was I suppose to use on the diff rings and was it suppose wet
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Try this and let me know if it helps...

Before starting think of diff building like cooking with chicken. The black thrust lube is the chicken and if you get it on the diff balls, rings or pulley your diff will get sick and DIE!

Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.

Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.

Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.

1. If you havent gotten a U1954 Tungsten Carbide Thrust Bearing get one. Its better then the one inculded in the kit.

Clean it all out and use Schumacher Black Thrust lube. Measure the outside diameter of the thrust washers. The small diameter one goes on the screw first.

Go wash your hands and get every bit grease off your fingers.

2. Sand U2408 diff rings with 600 grit wet dry on both sides using motor spray to wet the paper until you see even scorring of the rings entire surface.

Clean them with motor spray and place them on a clean paper towel.

3. Toss the ceramic diff balls. The U2459 Tungsten Carbide diff balls are smoother and longer lasting. Place the balls on a clean paper towel and CAREFULLY spray them with motor spray to get rid of any protective oil that is on them. If you spray too hard you will launch $15 of diff ball all over you room and they will be gone forever. When they are clean and dry put them in the tub of U1301 Silicone diff grease. Pluck them out and place them in your diff pully. Thats all the grease you will need.

4. Gradually tighten up the diff untill one output starts to spin opposite the other one. Gradually tighten the diff a little then spinn it a little untill you feel the diff screw has colapsed the spring washers next to the thrust bearing and it dosen't want to turn anymore.

The goal is to tighten the diff but not pit your freshly sanded diff rings.

5. Loosen the diff 1/4 turn then lock down the grub screw on the opposite side.

6. Put the diff in your car and turn everyhting on. wit the car up on a car stand. Run the car at low throttle while alternatly touching each rear wheel untill it stops. Repeat this 2-3 time per side.

The diff should be super free, super smooth and should not slip at all.

If you diff slips just once during a race it will score your rings and it will be junk. You will have to rebuild it and flip, resand or replace the rings.

The U1954 thrust will last longer than yuor kit so it will never be the cause of diff problems. The U2459 ball will survive at least 6 months or more. The only things that go bad in a diff assembled with these parts as described are the rings and you can resand them several time before you need to replace them.
here you go starling!!
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Old 11-15-2007, 02:15 PM   #23209
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if your a pro and u don't pay for your parts then why run steel but 4 someone like me at a club race where u don't have a field of abv average drivers then steel is the way to go! I had the silver and they bent like the purp..
Wow that's crazy. Honestly the guys running Mi3's around here and even when we all had Mi2 ECs we never had any problems. I would say most of is or all of us ran it pretty much stock.

I'm sure you have run or been around Trackside and Harbor Hobbies (pretty much the same group of racers). It's all rubber tire freaks around here so it's competitive. I know you are in IL but where do you race? Maybe we can meet up at one of the tracks.
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Old 11-15-2007, 02:43 PM   #23210
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Thumbs up race

Yes I been to Trackside I make it about 3 to 4 times a year TCS,Novak rubber natts and Brads race..I run @ www.Allensrccars.com I will b at the Novak... even at the iic this year Jimmy bent bones He gave me a set of used silver cvd's 1 bent 1 not I found if u break a frt arm u bend the bone
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Old 11-15-2007, 03:16 PM   #23211
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Well i haven't bent or broken any Tir front driveshafts this year. Well, technically that's not trie, i did bend a bone last week - but i did run the car for teh second half of the run with a broken wishbone and casterblock - so not really a surprise.
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Old 11-15-2007, 05:03 PM   #23212
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Yes I been to Trackside I make it about 3 to 4 times a year TCS,Novak rubber natts and Brads race..I run @ www.Allensrccars.com I will b at the Novak... even at the iic this year Jimmy bent bones He gave me a set of used silver cvd's 1 bent 1 not I found if u break a frt arm u bend the bone
I didnt know it was possible to break a front arm.. you need a P-Dub bumper, I've broken 1 caster block and bent 1 CVD since I put it on in May.
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Old 11-15-2007, 05:54 PM   #23213
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Were guys @ Vegas running Prizms successfully at 55mm?
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Old 11-15-2007, 06:20 PM   #23214
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Cool parma pse

I think but may be wrong but they ran parma's @57mm
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Old 11-15-2007, 06:29 PM   #23215
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I think but may be wrong but they ran parma's @57mm
we start the parma's out at 57,there fastest at 56.5-56mm
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Old 11-15-2007, 06:51 PM   #23216
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Dude, you can run the Prizms until there's no more rubber, 'til you start seeing white!
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Old 11-16-2007, 01:53 AM   #23217
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Default Similarity between mi2EC and mi2

Hey everyone, i got a mi2 not long ago and have a general question bout mi2EC and just a mi2 would anyone know if mi2EC parts would differ from mi2 parts. Parts such as belts, differentials and drive shafts? If i get those mi2EC parts would they fit my mi2? There are some used parts that i can get that are of a mi2EC but not sure if they would fit my mi2. Anyone know?

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Old 11-16-2007, 04:33 AM   #23218
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The cars are very simular. The only things that are really different are the shocktowers, suspension arms, chassis/topdeck, and shocks. You shoud be able to use everything else.
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Old 11-16-2007, 06:23 AM   #23219
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The cars are very simular. The only things that are really different are the shocktowers, suspension arms, chassis/topdeck, and shocks. You shoud be able to use everything else.
actually you can use rear belt,suspension arms,shocks, cant use the chassis/top deck but everything else you can use (my old MI2 was a hybrid of the two)
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Old 11-16-2007, 06:26 AM   #23220
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though similar in appearance, there were a lot of small changes that the ec saw. the ec has:

wider pivot mounts, that necessitate different hexes and axles to get the correct wheelbase. also, the front/rear hubs have less offset as a result.

the layshaft mounts, motor mounts, and front belts are different.

shocks are different.

carbon chassis parts are different (and because of the belt issue, won't line up if switched out.)

diff bearings are different (flanged versus standard)

diffs will swap, but the ec pullies are narrower and machined (nicer).

that's what i know of off the top of my head.

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