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Old 11-11-2007, 08:02 PM   #23086
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hey guys are u still gluing the diffrings or is that mi2
also do u 'pack' the thrust bearing or just give it a light coating?
cheers in advance
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Old 11-11-2007, 08:16 PM   #23087
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Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
Try this and let me know if it helps...

Before starting think of diff building like cooking with chicken. The black thrust lube is the chicken and if you get it on the diff balls, rings or pulley your diff will get sick and DIE!

Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.

Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.

Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.

1. If you havent gotten a U1954 Tungsten Carbide Thrust Bearing get one. Its better then the one inculded in the kit.

Clean it all out and use Schumacher Black Thrust lube. Measure the outside diameter of the thrust washers. The small diameter one goes on the screw first.

Go wash your hands and get every bit grease off your fingers.

2. Sand U2408 diff rings with 600 grit wet dry on both sides using motor spray to wet the paper until you see even scorring of the rings entire surface.

Clean them with motor spray and place them on a clean paper towel.

3. Toss the ceramic diff balls. The U2459 Tungsten Carbide diff balls are smoother and longer lasting. Place the balls on a clean paper towel and CAREFULLY spray them with motor spray to get rid of any protective oil that is on them. If you spray too hard you will launch $15 of diff ball all over you room and they will be gone forever. When they are clean and dry put them in the tub of U1301 Silicone diff grease. Pluck them out and place them in your diff pully. Thats all the grease you will need.

4. Gradually tighten up the diff untill one output starts to spin opposite the other one. Gradually tighten the diff a little then spinn it a little untill you feel the diff screw has colapsed the spring washers next to the thrust bearing and it dosen't want to turn anymore.

The goal is to tighten the diff but not pit your freshly sanded diff rings.

5. Loosen the diff 1/4 turn then lock down the grub screw on the opposite side.

6. Put the diff in your car and turn everyhting on. wit the car up on a car stand. Run the car at low throttle while alternatly touching each rear wheel untill it stops. Repeat this 2-3 time per side.

The diff should be super free, super smooth and should not slip at all.

If you diff slips just once during a race it will score your rings and it will be junk. You will have to rebuild it and flip, resand or replace the rings.

The U1954 thrust will last longer than yuor kit so it will never be the cause of diff problems. The U2459 ball will survive at least 6 months or more. The only things that go bad in a diff assembled with these parts as described are the rings and you can resand them several time before you need to replace them.
read this! ^^^^^^^^^^^^
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Old 11-11-2007, 08:17 PM   #23088
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Originally Posted by aus jd 2703 View Post
hey guys are u still gluing the diffrings or is that mi2
also do u 'pack' the thrust bearing or just give it a light coating?
cheers in advance
if its too small to read go back 1 page to view the ORG post ..
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Old 11-11-2007, 08:24 PM   #23089
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i did it doesnt mention gluing the diff rings but a couple months back people swore by gluing hence why im asking
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Old 11-11-2007, 08:42 PM   #23090
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
finally got to run the MI3 on the 10.5 class (8 minutes)and it was great! finished 3rd ,ended up with a 4.78 FDR(with 1mm advanced timing) and it was a missile
Marcos, any suggestions on rollout with the 10.5 on a fairly tight track.

PS- The SP9.5R is 'fast' but didn't last long
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Old 11-11-2007, 08:56 PM   #23091
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Poundit-
Are the worn out bones front and rear? If they're just in the front you might check and see if you're using too much mechanical throw. That could wear a bone out prematurely . .. especially if you're wanting more steering all the time. You could be bumping your DR up a few clicks here and there and before you know it you've got you're wheels at an extreme angle.

No gluing on the diff rings.

. . .and correct me if I am wrong, but the 2408 diff rings have experienced a running change and no longer need sanding out of the package. I just built four diffs with them and they were super flat. They look machined to me now instead of stamped. I couldn't find a round edge on them at all. I think I remember reading adam said they had sold out of all the older style 2408 rings and they were all the newer style now when they come from Schui USA

jay-
we ran a 10.5 class sat and we were mostly around 5.2-5.6. For reference we run on a large piece of carpet and were running 13-14 second laps. I might start at a 5.9 and temp and gear up accordingly. This was all with an LRP sphere comp, orion 4800, the novak 10.5/4300's with sintered rotors. I wasn't running a fan at all and temps indoors were low
80's. I was running a 32/96 with 57 mm tires and my motor didn't get over 130.
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Last edited by andrewdoherty; 11-11-2007 at 09:08 PM.
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Old 11-11-2007, 09:12 PM   #23092
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I hae the 2mm shims on the hubs. That would limit the through right? They were on the front and rear. I set my DR at 150% and then I adjust my EPA to the max through. It keeps me from putting in to much trim like you said. Please keep the ideas coming. I would love to fix this.
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Old 11-11-2007, 09:15 PM   #23093
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The track that I run at in about 80' x40'. WE run our 10.5s at 5.3 with advanced timing. The motors run at about 150*.
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Old 11-11-2007, 09:19 PM   #23094
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Quote:
Originally Posted by POUNDITRACING View Post
I hae the 2mm shims on the hubs. That would limit the through right? They were on the front and rear. I set my DR at 150% and then I adjust my EPA to the max through. It keeps me from putting in to much trim like you said. Please keep the ideas coming. I would love to fix this.
My driveshafts are still like new,I never run over 70% DR..im at 50% right now (4 foot circles)
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Old 11-11-2007, 09:42 PM   #23095
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post

. . .and correct me if I am wrong, but the 2408 diff rings have experienced a running change and no longer need sanding out of the package. I just built four diffs with them and they were super flat. They look machined to me now instead of stamped. I couldn't find a round edge on them at all. I think I remember reading adam said they had sold out of all the older style 2408 rings and they were all the newer style now when they come from Schui USA

jay-
we ran a 10.5 class sat and we were mostly around 5.2-5.6. For reference we run on a large piece of carpet and were running 13-14 second laps. I might start at a 5.9 and temp and gear up accordingly. This was all with an LRP sphere comp, orion 4800, the novak 10.5/4300's with sintered rotors. I wasn't running a fan at all and temps indoors were low
80's. I was running a 32/96 with 57 mm tires and my motor didn't get over 130.
You're absolutely right on the 2408 diff rings, they're not stamped but I took some 800 grit sp to 'em anyhow.

Our lap times are very similar with a rare high-12 lap thrown in. With my LRP13.5 today in practice I threw down quite a few 13.7sec laps (which is actually quite faasst)

Thanks brah...here's a few pics of the Core in my car w/the SP9.5R......
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Last edited by JayBee; 09-12-2008 at 09:34 PM.
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Old 11-12-2007, 03:21 AM   #23096
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While were on this topic I thought I'd mention that if you have not tried the Schumacher circlip pliers tey are FREAKIN AWESOME! No more modding makeup scissors, or using body clips or anything. They jsut plain work perfect. One of those "why didn't I get these 3 years ago??!" kinda purchases for me!
hey where are these pliers or are u being sarcastic?
part number
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Old 11-12-2007, 04:37 AM   #23097
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lol
I was being serious. I gotta leave it to Adam or Shawn for the PN though. They really are awesome. Perfect fit1
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Old 11-12-2007, 04:49 AM   #23098
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If you have the silver CVD's you already have the new ones an shouldn't have the same problems you had with the purple ones

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I just had to replace my axels after 6 race days. I had 2 almost broken cvd pins, 1 cracked axle, and 3 compleatly warn out bones. I got the silver one in the kit. Any suggestions on making them last longer?

I also have a prolbem with one of my droop screws in the rear of the car. I run 5mm of droop and the arm is stripped. The arm only holds about 1 1/4 threads. Is there a fix other than longer droop screws?

On a good note: I won my first main this weekend. It was the B but the A is full factory rides other than Allan Hewitt (who won the main). The car feels great and I'm getting faster every race. I love the way the car feel on the track but I seem to always be needing a little more stearing.
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Old 11-12-2007, 04:50 AM   #23099
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I'll get a part number on here in a few hours

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hey where are these pliers or are u being sarcastic?
part number
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Old 11-12-2007, 04:53 AM   #23100
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Originally Posted by JayBee View Post
Marcos, any suggestions on rollout with the 10.5 on a fairly tight track.

PS- The SP9.5R is 'fast' but didn't last long
i dont run carpet much but i run about 5.2FDR on a tight track with the 1.5 and a cs27 ( 63mm tire) so the roll out for that is around a 39mm roll out i think
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