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Old 11-11-2007, 03:25 PM   #23071
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So I just got home from the Raddison where the Snowbirds are this year, and its 100% better than the old hotel.

Plus I'm a number 72 on the sleep number bed!
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Old 11-11-2007, 03:43 PM   #23072
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finally got to run the MI3 on the 10.5 class (8 minutes)and it was great! finished 3rd ,ended up with a 4.78 FDR(with 1mm advanced timing) and it was a missile
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Old 11-11-2007, 05:19 PM   #23073
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finally got to run the MI3 on the 10.5 class (8 minutes)and it was great! finished 3rd ,ended up with a 4.78 FDR(with 1mm advanced timing) and it was a missile
Out of interest, what sort of gearing would you have run on the same circuit with a 13.5?

Just trying to compare as my local club has allowed 10.5

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Old 11-11-2007, 05:41 PM   #23074
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finally got to run the MI3 on the 10.5 class (8 minutes)and it was great! finished 3rd ,ended up with a 4.78 FDR(with 1mm advanced timing) and it was a missile
Did you run lipo or nimh packs for the 8 minute races?
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Old 11-11-2007, 05:49 PM   #23075
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Out of interest, what sort of gearing would you have run on the same circuit with a 13.5?

Just trying to compare as my local club has allowed 10.5

Skiddins
i told one guy that was running the 13.5 novak motor to run it around a 3.96FDR and he was MOVING
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Old 11-11-2007, 05:50 PM   #23076
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Did you run lipo or nimh packs for the 8 minute races?
i ran LIPO (core R/C 5000) and had about 2600 mah left in the battery after the run couple of guys were running 4200's and had no problems with runtime
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Old 11-11-2007, 05:55 PM   #23077
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i ran LIPO (core R/C 5000) and had about 2600 mah left in the battery after the run couple of guys were running 4200's and had no problems with runtime
Awesome. 3.96 final drive. No wonder he was moving. I do take it that the track is kinda open.
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Old 11-11-2007, 05:56 PM   #23078
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Awesome. 3.96 final drive. No wonder he was moving. I do take it that the track is kinda open.
a little but it had a little tight infield
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Old 11-11-2007, 06:17 PM   #23079
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Thumbs up 415 cvd /mi3 how it looks

ok the 1way all u need is a rubber shock o ring orange or any coloer and 2 shims and the axle+4 or 5mm wheel hex...the Diff/Foam car u need a 2mm bit drill the blade slip some heat shrink tubing over the bone heat it cut to fit put the blade on do the same as the 1way to the axel and all good less than 20bucks!
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Old 11-11-2007, 06:39 PM   #23080
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ok the 1way all u need is a rubber shock o ring orange or any coloer and 2 shims and the axle+4 or 5mm wheel hex...the Diff/Foam car u need a 2mm bit drill the blade slip some heat shrink tubing over the bone heat it cut to fit put the blade on do the same as the 1way to the axel and all good less than 20bucks!
looks good , or you can get the updated silver cvd's from schumacher

sent you pm
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Old 11-11-2007, 06:55 PM   #23081
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looks good , or you can get the updated silver cvd's from schumacher

sent you pm
r they steel?
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Old 11-11-2007, 07:01 PM   #23082
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I do almost what Adrian posted but a little different. I too clean everything out at least twice - and just make sure you keep your hands clean. Any fibers or dirt will make your diff crap out.

I little trick I have found to work is use the cap of the motor spray. I then spray some motor spray in there and then put the fiff balls in there. I let them sit as I am cleaning everything else. I then just pour them out on a clean paper towel and then spray them again.

I actually like lubing up the diff pulley instead of dipping the diff balls as Adrian does. I just use an exacto or a small flathead screw driver and just place some schumacher diff lube in the holes of the pulley. I then just place the diff balls in the holes.

As Adrian stated, make sure you use 600 grit sandpaper and sand those things down till they are nice and butter smooth and even.

I have had great success with building my diffs this way.....

While were on this topic I thought I'd mention that if you have not tried the Schumacher circlip pliers tey are FREAKIN AWESOME! No more modding makeup scissors, or using body clips or anything. They jsut plain work perfect. One of those "why didn't I get these 3 years ago??!" kinda purchases for me!
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Old 11-11-2007, 07:01 PM   #23083
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r they steel?
No, they're a silver alloy.
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Old 11-11-2007, 07:19 PM   #23084
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r they steel?
And they are A LOT better....used it on my Mi3 and even the Mi2EC Foam now...won't go back to the purple one no more.
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Old 11-11-2007, 07:35 PM   #23085
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I just had to replace my axels after 6 race days. I had 2 almost broken cvd pins, 1 cracked axle, and 3 compleatly warn out bones. I got the silver one in the kit. Any suggestions on making them last longer?

I also have a prolbem with one of my droop screws in the rear of the car. I run 5mm of droop and the arm is stripped. The arm only holds about 1 1/4 threads. Is there a fix other than longer droop screws?

On a good note: I won my first main this weekend. It was the B but the A is full factory rides other than Allan Hewitt (who won the main). The car feels great and I'm getting faster every race. I love the way the car feel on the track but I seem to always be needing a little more stearing.
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