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Old 10-18-2007, 11:12 AM   #22366
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Its a mixture of both, we have some older ones obviously purple, and some newer ones recently delivered which are the newer silver ones

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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
just looking at all my options. The u3233 are the older purple alloy or the newer silver?? I was thiking they were the older purple ones.
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Old 10-18-2007, 11:13 AM   #22367
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Think it was a running change on the driveshaft bits - so part numbers will be the same.

We've been running the non keyed rings for quite some time. Shouldn't work at all, but it does, they defenetly make the diff run nicer for longer.
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Old 10-18-2007, 12:16 PM   #22368
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster View Post
Thats why I offered to help you build your car Your diff would still feel new, lol.

I should be at the track on Sat, so we can take a few mins to rebuild your diff and show you what to do.
If you build my diff I might be able to finish something other than 3rd. For the past 2 months I've been third in every class I race in.
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Old 10-18-2007, 02:12 PM   #22369
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Wes thanks would like me to get gasket for golf car
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Old 10-18-2007, 02:22 PM   #22370
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
just use a kimbrough medium servo saver. THe one with 5 holes. PN 201 I believe.

That and I am still getting excesive wear where the outter pin rotates inside the alloy bowl.

get some tamiya anti-wear grease, the green sticky stuff, gober that stuff on all contact surfaces and moving areas. built/rebuilt my cvds with that and no issues in that area. just be sure to lock tight the grub screw and insert it before applying grease.
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Old 10-18-2007, 02:25 PM   #22371
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jon kerr has been sort of quiet as of late. How's my old Schumacher homies doing?
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Old 10-18-2007, 03:33 PM   #22372
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jon kerr has been sort of quiet as of late. How's my old Schumacher homies doing?
Kerr has been running off road 1/8 gas. What a gasshole. I've been trying to get him out for a couple of weeks but he's been going to Hawaii.
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Old 10-18-2007, 04:35 PM   #22373
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Originally Posted by skypilot View Post
get some tamiya anti-wear grease, the green sticky stuff, gober that stuff on all contact surfaces and moving areas. built/rebuilt my cvds with that and no issues in that area. just be sure to lock tight the grub screw and insert it before applying grease.
Ill have to try that on one of my front CVD's. I only get wear int he front. I assume its the increased articulation over the rear CVD"s. I might have to wait and order new bones once the stock becomes all silver. I ahve had beter luck with the silver ones Thanks for all the help folks. Luvin my schui!!
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Old 10-18-2007, 04:52 PM   #22374
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Wes 8 dollars will pick it next week
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Old 10-19-2007, 07:32 AM   #22375
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Ok cool.

Thanks
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Old 10-19-2007, 08:19 AM   #22376
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Need some help guys

Been running Custom's IIC setup and its been working great on a large flowing track, but for a small tight track at our local club its just too hard to drive fast on this type of circuit (were talking about sub 10 second laps)
Any suggestions about what changes to make first?

All help gratefully recieved
Thanks

Paul
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Old 10-19-2007, 08:19 AM   #22377
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What grease do you guys prefer rebuilding your diff with, the stock silicon diff lube or the black moly grease?
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Old 10-19-2007, 08:45 AM   #22378
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You need to use the clear silicon grease on the main diff balls and the black moly grease on the thrust race. The 2 different greases do entirly different things so you really dont want to mix them up!
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Old 10-19-2007, 08:58 AM   #22379
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you know i kinda figured thats what i would hear, and thank you. i did use the not keyed diff rings and can really feel a difference even by hand
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Old 10-19-2007, 09:03 AM   #22380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abailey21 View Post
What grease do you guys prefer rebuilding your diff with, the stock silicon diff lube or the black moly grease?
i use the stock diff grease for the diff balls, and i like the associated black grease for the thrust....
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