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Old 10-16-2007, 06:42 PM   #22321
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I would take 1mm of Droop out of the rear and lower the rear roll-center by .5

That should give you more "off power" grip.
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Old 10-16-2007, 07:27 PM   #22322
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Originally Posted by Big Features View Post
I would take 1mm of Droop out of the rear and lower the rear roll-center by .5

That should give you more "off power" grip.
i found when running low bite less works ......it's worth a try
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Old 10-16-2007, 08:23 PM   #22323
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I ran jimmys setup and found it to be way to loose in med bite track.Also the rps are smaller than the jacos so you have to change the droop.The changes i made were going back to the standard hole on the steering block ,1mm less droop in the rear and stood the rear shocks up one hole.
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Old 10-16-2007, 09:39 PM   #22324
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Schumacher MI3 is definitely the truth. With the help of team drivers Brett Sisley (DIALED) & Ritchie Reynolds (skypilot), our cars are definitely on the 'FAST' side of the tracks..........
Go Schumacher!!!
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Old 10-17-2007, 03:43 AM   #22325
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Agree with you AAron Standing rear shocks 1 hole up and front shocks one hole in makes car much better...I normally set droop like 5.5mm front ,4.5mm rear
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Old 10-17-2007, 04:16 AM   #22326
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Can anyone explain what difference it makes having the steering plate in the different positions please ?
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Old 10-17-2007, 04:51 AM   #22327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nexus View Post
I want to double check something regarding rear toe...

2mm shim in the front
1mm shim in the rear
stock rear hubs

= how much toe?

2mm shim in the front
.5mm shim in the rear
1deg alum rear hubs

= how much toe?
Well;

2mm shim in the front
0mm shim in the rear
1deg alum rear hubs = about 3deg

I believe this will be the same as your first example

It said somewhere that each 0.5mm shim added 0.6deg of toe, but I'm not so sure.

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Old 10-17-2007, 06:46 AM   #22328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Well;

2mm shim in the front
0mm shim in the rear
1deg alum rear hubs = about 3deg

I believe this will be the same as your first example

It said somewhere that each 0.5mm shim added 0.6deg of toe, but I'm not so sure.

Skiddins
If your example is correct then...

2mm shim in the front
1mm shim in the rear
stock rear hubs

= how much toe = 3deg

2mm shim in the front
.5mm shim in the rear
1deg alum rear hubs

= how much toe = 3.6deg'ish? :P?


I'll just use my camber gauge and hold the car upright to get an idea of degrees.

Thanks for the input.
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Old 10-17-2007, 09:21 AM   #22329
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I believe the rear of the car without shims is 4mm. So if you start adding shims or hubs with specific degree in them you can alter your toe.

2mm in front of rear bulkhead would give you 2mm toe.

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Old 10-17-2007, 09:46 AM   #22330
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Need help.

What is the name for the parts that you change to set the acramen? It goes on top of the stearing rack. Does anyone have a part #?
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Old 10-17-2007, 09:55 AM   #22331
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Pound -

Track rod set - U3135

Chris
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Old 10-17-2007, 10:51 AM   #22332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abailey21 View Post
I had to send you the rev lites Randy, U2005 cause we only had one set of the RP's, we never booked the rims on as a product for some reason, i'm gonnna ask Robin and Shawn as to why we dont carry them?
What inserts did you find for me to mount?
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Old 10-17-2007, 11:05 AM   #22333
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Originally Posted by ckearns View Post
Pound -

Track rod set - U3135

Chris
thanks.

Whitch one dose everyone use???????
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Old 10-17-2007, 11:16 AM   #22334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by POUNDITRACING View Post
thanks.

Whitch one dose everyone use???????
Seems to be the medium or short length, with the holes the same width as the kit item.

I position the steering post so that the arms are dead straight with eachother when looking from above.

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Old 10-17-2007, 11:27 AM   #22335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by POUNDITRACING View Post
thanks.

Whitch one dose everyone use???????
For BCR I use the medium width longest one. The shorter ones will mellow the car out too much for that track.
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