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Old 05-23-2002, 12:50 PM   #2131
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Schumacher also has a Titanium screw kit that is hex head. I believe they should be back in stock next week.... They carry the Take Off steel hex heads now. Pretty inexpensive and work great.

Hope this helps!
Rob Love
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Old 05-23-2002, 01:43 PM   #2132
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Default Hey yall!!!

Well I am ready to make the Mission jump!!! I may very well buy new-but if one of you guys are looking to unload a Mission CF e-mail me and lets talk!!! I already have a post in "want to buy" on sevral forums, but might as well go to source.

Hey Rob, how goes it-its not like we dont talk every day via e-mail, eh??? hahaha!!!!
Ray rshuang@ameritech.net

And-oh yes, you guys can give me the A-main set up???
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Old 05-23-2002, 01:46 PM   #2133
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U crack me up Glad to see you're going to give it a shot. It's a great piece....
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Old 05-23-2002, 02:04 PM   #2134
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Changed my pseudonym to apply to this hobby...

Okay, I get the shelf, do I need the Hudy sticker that goes
on their boards? I mean, do I need all the lines that are on the Hudy setup system boards?

Oh, thanks for all of your help! I am in the hole for some bucks but I bet they are all well spent on the Schuies!

Oh, correct link to the Fasteners Express site is:

http://www.fastener-express.com/store.asp

Last edited by RC-Hacker; 05-23-2002 at 02:07 PM.
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Old 05-23-2002, 02:09 PM   #2135
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Default Screw sizes

Do you know what the exact hex screw sizes are that I will need?
How about quantity?

Thanks!
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Old 05-23-2002, 03:26 PM   #2136
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Jonski- no problem!! Now onamission stole it LOL. Come on guys that was ALOT of work.......of cource it was Jonski couldn't do it Anyhow I am not running the car anymore, actually not running any on-road or electric. i picked up a sponsorship for /8 off-road so need to devote my time to that. The Mission is a great car and wish all goodluck!
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Old 05-24-2002, 01:04 AM   #2137
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RC-Hacker:
You will need plenty, like 50 pieces of 12xM3. Then a couple of shorter ones 6xM3 or 8xM3 for the motor plate, front screws of the steering, diff bearing supports, and the layshaft supports. So that's 12 pieces. The purple aluminum hex screws are nice, but there are a couple of places where I wouldn't recommend them the most important of which being the mounting blocks of the lower wishbones.
BR/ JesseT
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Old 05-24-2002, 08:46 AM   #2138
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sandor


Hi Bigdog, Thanks for the tip but, on such a big circuit I'm for sure gonna use my one-way (I'm a fan of one-ways, I almost always use them, if there is enough traction) And if I'm gonna make one side stiffer it's gonna be the rear.

I was thinking of using the maximum wheelbase length and the inline position for the camberlinks. Not sure about the upper or lower position on the bulkheads. Any thoughts on that....

Thanks
Sandor, sorry I didn't see your post the other day...

Oneway- I agree, but I would still try that setup. If anything, run the diff then switch to the oneway.

Max wheelbase- with such a sweeping track and no real tight hairpins (that I remember) the long wheelbase would probably make the car easier to drive, but easier isn't always faster...

On the camber links- IMO, you cannot tell what camber link is going to be optimal on a certain track by looking at it. Camber link position is only one small part of a combination of settings that make up the whole setup. There are things that you basically know will be optimized for one situation or the other (like swaybars on carpet) but camber link position should only be changed after establishing a baseline knowledge of how the car will react on a track. This is why I suggested starting with that red/blue setup. If you change the camber links of a known-to-work on asphalt setup before you ever put the car on the track, then how do you know it is faster? First of all, what if the car isn't balanced? Do you go back and change the links or look elsewhere to balance the car out? Do you know EXACTLY what changing the camber link positions will accomplish? (no offense meant)

My point is this: you can tune a suspension on paper until you are blue in the face, but without putting the car on the track, your just pissing in the wind- lol

Good luck with the race. Let us know how it works.
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Old 05-24-2002, 10:58 AM   #2139
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RBlove: what is the part number for this Schumacher screw kit? I don't care if its Ti or steel, I just like hex. Also, what size is the hex?

Thanks

I just looked at the screw set on Alex Lopez's Mission in RCCA, and it looks sweeeet!
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Old 05-24-2002, 11:45 AM   #2140
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Darkseid, Unfortunately there is not a kit for the steel Take Off screws. They just carry the sizes. They come like 6 to a pack. The Ti screws are from Ti Racing and I do not have that part number either Sorry about that. Give Adrian a call down at Schumacher and he can give you sizes and/or part numbers.

I "THINK" everything is 6 or 8 mm and then you need one pack of 10 mm......

Sorry I couldn't be of more help. I am work and have my stuff at home.

Rob Love
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Old 05-24-2002, 12:34 PM   #2141
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RBLove: no problem. I'd prefer to just grab a single kit that has all the screws I need for the Mission.

So I guess I'll hold out for the kit that SpeedtechR/C says they have coming. Hope it doesn't take too long.
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Old 05-25-2002, 01:50 AM   #2142
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If you change the wheelbase via moving the spacer around on the front lower arm instead of the back you also change the caster angle while changing the weight distribution.... Is my thinking correct, and has anyone tried this? What effects did it or would it make in the feel of the car?


BTW: the manual is a little ambiguios on the effects chaster makes, but it leads me to believe that more caster = more corner exit steering.... however I made a few adjustments last weekend and I feel the opposite is true, less caster= less entry and more exit steering.

Right now the car has about perfect turn-in (corner entry or off-power) steering, but I am still looking for more steering from the center out...... any thoughts...... I believe this along with a stiffer spring combo will make the car unbeatable....too bad I can't say the same for the driver!!!!!

I had a blast racing last weekend, funny thing my car was one of the very first to hook-up on the somewhat cold indoor asphalt. Others had to resort to everything from boat loads of compound to very large wings on the back of their cars. Alot of guys asked what compound I was running and almost all jaws dropped when I said I didn't use any, especially when I told them that the foams I run are firmer than the plaid/purples they all run........
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Old 05-25-2002, 01:59 AM   #2143
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Quote:
Originally posted by BigDogRacing

If you change the camber links of a known-to-work on asphalt setup before you ever put the car on the track, then how do you know it is faster? First of all, what if the car isn't balanced? Do you go back and change the links or look elsewhere to balance the car out? Do you know EXACTLY what changing the camber link positions will accomplish? (no offense meant)

My point is this: you can tune a suspension on paper until you are blue in the face, but without putting the car on the track, your just pissing in the wind- lol

Good luck with the race. Let us know how it works.


You are completely right, I will first try the link positions following that setup. We have one and a half hour of practice before the race.
We have a big chance it will be a wet race which means I can not use my mission but my A2 wet car. I let you know how it did go.

Greetings from Holland
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Old 05-25-2002, 05:42 AM   #2144
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Default Reedy Race

Any word on how they are doing?
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Old 05-25-2002, 05:53 AM   #2145
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Default Screws

I may be hoping in a little late. Schumacher has Stainless screw kits for the Axis2 which will work for the Mission. Good price also! Hex head no posi drive.
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