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Old 08-27-2007, 06:31 PM   #21331
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Kinda off topic, but I just got done putting together some of my IIC stuff, and used the new CVD's. I dont come on much and try to sell new parts, but I do recommend switching over to the new CVD's. They are a polished finish, still pre-built, but I didnt take a single one apart before I put them on the car. The thread lock is on so clean that I didnt think it was there at first. Basically they feel a lot smoother at full lock, which means you can turn the front tires further without having bind issues or chattering in the front end. Im switching over to them on the F/R of my car, but I'd recommend at least running them on the front end.
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Old 08-27-2007, 06:42 PM   #21332
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Oh yes, because my front end is soooo much more important than my rear end
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Old 08-27-2007, 07:53 PM   #21333
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Originally Posted by JayBee View Post
That's gross Randy

BTW, I've built up my carpet car using C.Goetz set-up w/ the exception of my lowered shock towers. His shocks are 62.5mm, I built mine at 59.5mm. Is that cool as long as I can acheive proper ride height? I'm also using less rebound in the rear. As soon as our carpet is in I'll see how this works...

STOP OVER THINKING THE CAR.
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Old 08-27-2007, 07:54 PM   #21334
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Originally Posted by JayBee View Post
BTW, I've built up my carpet car using C.Goetz set-up w/ the exception of my lowered shock towers. His shocks are 62.5mm, I built mine at 59.5mm. Is that cool as long as I can acheive proper ride height?
yup. you're good. i don't make much of shock length. the only thing that really dictates is where the piston sits in the body, which as long as it's not bottomed out, should feel nearly the same on the track. the new lowered towers will allow for all the angles needed in carpet, from high bite to low bite. it's a wider range of angles, but with larger increments.

let us know how it goes.

- r.b. -

randy - in concur regarding the new cvd assemblies. they are nice.
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Old 08-27-2007, 07:56 PM   #21335
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Originally Posted by skypilot View Post
STOP OVER THINKING THE CAR.
Yeah like that'll happen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by seaball View Post
yup. you're good. i don't make much of shock length. the only thing that really dictates is where the piston sits in the body, which as long as it's not bottomed out, should feel nearly the same on the track. the new lowered towers will allow for all the angles needed in carpet, from high bite to low bite. it's a wider range of angles, but with larger increments.

let us know how it goes.

- r.b. -
Thanks seaball, will do
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Old 08-27-2007, 08:01 PM   #21336
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster View Post
Kinda off topic, but I just got done putting together some of my IIC stuff, and used the new CVD's. I dont come on much and try to sell new parts, but I do recommend switching over to the new CVD's. They are a polished finish, still pre-built, but I didnt take a single one apart before I put them on the car. The thread lock is on so clean that I didnt think it was there at first. Basically they feel a lot smoother at full lock, which means you can turn the front tires further without having bind issues or chattering in the front end. Im switching over to them on the F/R of my car, but I'd recommend at least running them on the front end.
Hi Randy is part# different for the new CVD's. Thanks.
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Old 08-27-2007, 08:41 PM   #21337
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hey what should i order with my car to make it a full on aphsalt car my list is so far:
flexi top deck
soft arms front and rear
different steering plates
and new drive shafts
anything else as i have a spring set and 2 degree hubs waiting.
cheers
oh and the drive shafts are the same part number still arnt they u3020?
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Old 08-28-2007, 12:01 AM   #21338
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i heard that some drivers are using the mi2ec rear arms at the back, are they still using the anti-roll bars?, if so how are they fitting it.
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Old 08-28-2007, 12:09 AM   #21339
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you have to drill your own holes in the MI2 arms..the arms give more flex...anyone tried the flex top deck instead?
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Old 08-28-2007, 02:45 AM   #21340
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Originally Posted by UK.hardcore View Post
hey,

i recently bought an mi3 (online), but dont have it yet.

i'm wondering if there are any precations are tips to make it better?

i know to leave those rings off the pulley's.
Most people seem to also only need one of the diff shims that are used (I believe the manual says at least one each side).
I've found the titanium pivots are very slightly looser which seems to free up the wishbones slightly.
Threadlock the small screws that go into the ends of the main pivot pins.

I thin that's about it.

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Old 08-28-2007, 02:46 AM   #21341
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Originally Posted by ernie View Post
Hi Randy is part# different for the new CVD's. Thanks.
New CVD's are still U3020 and come in the new kits as standard.

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Old 08-28-2007, 02:48 AM   #21342
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What is the best way to try and gain some more steering for the tighter twistier sections of a track?
We used LRP VTEC 27R tyres for our KO GP and on their first run the grip and steering etc was fantastic, subsequent runs were always fractionally slower.
I want to try and re-create that first run effect on the steering for other tyres.

Any idea's

Thanks
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Old 08-28-2007, 04:31 AM   #21343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aus jd 2703 View Post
hey what should i order with my car to make it a full on aphsalt car my list is so far:
flexi top deck
soft arms front and rear
different steering plates
and new drive shafts
anything else as i have a spring set and 2 degree hubs waiting.
cheers
oh and the drive shafts are the same part number still arnt they u3020?
Theres no need for the flexi top deck. If anything get the stiff to make the car more consistent. I actually use the carpet top deck.
PW told me only to get the medium arms. He said the soft are to soft.
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Old 08-28-2007, 06:25 AM   #21344
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I have to agree with Lil B and PW, the soft arms are really soft, great for wall riders like myself, but i think, and have heard way to soft for much racing.
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Old 08-28-2007, 07:10 AM   #21345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ernie View Post
Hi Randy is part# different for the new CVD's. Thanks.
Same part #, new CVD
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