Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I havent done it so I dont know for sure, but possibly to clear the shock end from the wider 28mm rim?

Static_racing

Moving the shocks inboard on the arm will give you a big more steering. I softens the front alittle without having to make a spring/oil change. I ran my Mi2EC like that all the time with 35lb springs up front.

POUNDITRACING

iTrader: (10)

what are some online places to buy an MI3.

RT76

iTrader: (18)

I've got one in stock.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I guess after running Losi for a while I think too far into things, with the older car you had to make everything fit together (including the front shocks on the arm) so sometimes I look past the simple explination of maybe just wanting more steering lol.

jordan.norwood@

has anyone tried the new flex wishbones yet? if so have you noticed any difference handing wise.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

PW has been using Mi2 arms (more flex) with good results it sounds like. The softer arm will give more traction on low grip tracks.

abailey21

iTrader: (37)

Wanted to let everyone know that we received the Med and Ultra Flex front/rear arms and another shipment of CVD's today, they'll be ready to ship tomorrow morning.

Adam

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Got a question guys.

I'm in the process of switching my Mi3 over for carpet season. But one thing came up...

The front end, when set up according to the manuals carpet set up, seems awfully wide. With the "screw block spacers" set to 2.5mm front/1.5mm rear, the front end is wider than the rear. And that's with me having the 1mm spacers against the hexes, only in the rear.

Is this how things are supposed to be?

seaball

iTrader: (9)

mark, what is turn-in? that's a big discrepancy in everyone's mind. for some, it's the "cut" or transitioning right on-center. for others, turn-in is defined as all the way to the apex, including the off-power section used to transfer the weight forward. here's what i have recently committed to memory..:

first, there is x amount of grip available to distribute to all the tires. that said, something is going to have to give, so to speak, in order to change the balance.

* less castor will turn in harder at the expense of on power steering.
* antidive will turn-in harder right on center, but may push slightly off-power in low grip.
* shorter front links get to the apex faster, but again, make the car twitchier on center. even 2mm is very detectable here.
* harder oil sharpens the car up, but will flatten it out mid-corner
* more rear toe can sharpen the turn-in at the (occasional) expense of cornerspeed
* front camber gain (link inclination) will help drag the front end down off power, but you may pick up the "dig" again.
* the front bar will also quicken the car up on center, but, like antidive, can cause a mid-corner push if it's too heavy.

that's mostly front end stuff, but entry problems are usually front end related since that's the end that's loaded. it sounds like you're pushing through the apex, which is more than just on-center laziness..

here's a scenario that could work...

1) take away the castor. the car will turn-in harder to the apex which could solve your problems by itself. it will also get rid of the weight jacking that castor induces...
2) assuming that you now need more on-power/high speed steering since the car is staying flatter, you next soften the front spring, or stiffen the rear (depending on how you want the car to transition: stiffer = quicker).
3) perhaps you pull the bar off instead, or inaddition to.
4) now, the car balanced but still pushing mid-corner. next go to a more angled front link which will bind the front end down getting some of that dig back that you lost when you switched castor blocks.
5) still floating through the corners? adding rear toe will bind the rear back down, and often give the car more off power steering as a result of the increased decelleration. nobody likes to mechanically bind the car down, but it often translates into better and more consistent lap times. (for real )

by now you should be able to drive fairly hot into the 180's, but i'm guessing your car will feel suffocated off power.

setups are a process... the more you practice it, the better you will be.

sorry for the lengthy tutorial..

- roger blankenship -

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

You rule seanuts How can I be cool like you?

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Maybe an all male review at Bending Cornerz?

teammidget lilB

iTrader: (19)

I have one question I am wondering what exactly are the effects of going to stiffer front shock oil on asphalt. I understand that it will take away turn in away but what about on power??

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

That's gross Randy

BTW, I've built up my carpet car using C.Goetz set-up w/ the exception of my lowered shock towers. His shocks are 62.5mm, I built mine at 59.5mm. Is that cool as long as I can acheive proper ride height? I'm also using less rebound in the rear. As soon as our carpet is in I'll see how this works...

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Anybody got any thoughts about that carpet setup question I had a couple post back???