Originally Posted by Mr. McGoo
I am now starting to do some testing for 19T - and I still have my mid corner and exit speed - but upon entry - my car is pushing. I thought I might be overdriving it a bit - but even when I feel like I am not overdriving it - it just doesn't enter the corners like I would like.
mark, what is turn-in? that's a big discrepancy in everyone's mind. for some, it's the "cut" or transitioning right on-center. for others, turn-in is defined as all the way to the apex, including the off-power section used to transfer the weight forward. here's what i have recently committed to memory..:
first, there is x amount of grip available to distribute to all the tires. that said, something is going to have to give, so to speak, in order to change the balance.
* less castor will turn in harder at the expense of on power steering.
* antidive will turn-in harder right on center, but may push slightly off-power in low grip.
* shorter front links get to the apex faster, but again, make the car twitchier on center. even 2mm is very detectable here.
* harder oil sharpens the car up, but will flatten it out mid-corner
* more rear toe can sharpen the turn-in at the (occasional) expense of cornerspeed
* front camber gain (link inclination) will help drag the front end down off power, but you may pick up the "dig" again.
* the front bar will also quicken the car up on center, but, like antidive, can cause a mid-corner push if it's too heavy.
that's mostly front end stuff, but entry problems are usually front end related since that's the end that's loaded. it sounds like you're pushing through the apex, which is more than just on-center laziness..
here's a scenario that could work...
1) take away the castor. the car will turn-in harder to the apex which could solve your problems by itself. it will also get rid of the weight jacking that castor induces...
2) assuming that you now need more on-power/high speed steering since the car is staying flatter, you next soften the front spring, or stiffen the rear (depending on how you want the car to transition: stiffer = quicker).
3) perhaps you pull the bar off instead, or inaddition to.
4) now, the car balanced but still pushing mid-corner. next go to a more angled front link which will bind the front end down getting some of that dig back that you lost when you switched castor blocks.
5) still floating through the corners? adding rear toe will bind the rear back down, and often give the car more off power steering as a result of the increased decelleration. nobody likes to mechanically bind the car down, but it often translates into better and more consistent lap times. (for real
by now you should be able to drive fairly hot into the 180's, but i'm guessing your car will feel suffocated off power.
setups are a process... the more you practice it, the better you will be.
sorry for the lengthy tutorial..
- roger blankenship -