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Old 06-27-2007, 03:37 PM   #20431
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
you dont need any other parts!!
You beat me to it.

But my answer was longer!
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Old 06-27-2007, 03:38 PM   #20432
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The car is ready for asphalt right out of the box. The 2.5mm chassis and 2.5mm top deck are more for carpet racing I believe. And considering how stiff the car is with the stock chassis, I would have to think that those options are only necessary if you run on 'nationals' type of traction on carpet.

Most people are just taking the car and putting the PW asphalt setup on the car to start and working from there. And you don't need any extras to do that.
Paul's Reedy setup is the s#!t!!!
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Old 06-27-2007, 03:39 PM   #20433
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You beat me to it.

But my answer was longer!
lol
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Old 06-27-2007, 03:48 PM   #20434
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Thanks for the help! That was the answer that I was hoping I would get.
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Old 06-27-2007, 03:48 PM   #20435
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
Paul's Reedy setup is the s#!t!!!
Interesting. Two things though...

How does it translate to those of us not running 5 cell?

Also, what does the anti-dive do for the car?
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Old 06-27-2007, 04:01 PM   #20436
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Interesting. Two things though...

How does it translate to those of us not running 5 cell?

Also, what does the anti-dive do for the car?
oops didnt think about that i run 5 cells too i didnt run it with 6 cells, but it shouldnt make that much difference i dont tink, anti-dive gives you more turn in steering, and the car dives less while braking
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Old 06-27-2007, 04:16 PM   #20437
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Originally Posted by cpatel529 View Post
I am considering buying the Mi3 (vs Associated FT TC5) for asphalt/rubber racing. I want to get a car that is setup for asphalt racing out of the box as much as possible and doesnt need alot of extra parts and something that is easy to maintain, clean, and take apart if parts need to be fixed. Like i said, the Mi3 and the FT TC5 are my first two choices.


What parts are necessary for the Mi3 to be competitive on asphalt? I am sure that you can run the stock parts but is a 2.5mm chassis and 2.5mm top deck available and necessary for adjustability?

Any help would be much appreciated.
The TC5, from what I've been told, comes setup with a front diff with foam tires on carpet in mind. The Mi3 comes with a spool, which is what 90% of the guys running asphalt run. You can take your Mi3 straight off the bench after building it to kit specs and it'll be fast pretty much any outdoor track. As far as easy to maintain, clean, and fix, you can't get any better than this car. 2 screws and your diff is out without effecting anything else on the car. I changed a chassis in less than 5 minutes.
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Old 06-27-2007, 04:22 PM   #20438
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Originally Posted by Jon Kerr View Post
The TC5, from what I've been told, comes setup with a front diff with foam tires on carpet in mind. The Mi3 comes with a spool, which is what 90% of the guys running asphalt run. You can take your Mi3 straight off the bench after building it to kit specs and it'll be fast pretty much any outdoor track. As far as easy to maintain, clean, and fix, you can't get any better than this car. 2 screws and your diff is out without effecting anything else on the car. I changed a chassis in less than 5 minutes.
Thats only because your an animal! grrr
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Old 06-27-2007, 04:43 PM   #20439
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Thats only because your an animal! grrr
You know it!!!
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Old 06-27-2007, 09:42 PM   #20440
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Jon...The book setup works pretty good on tarmac with rubbers ...I wonder why your setup(and others )have the shocks moved in at the top and rebound?
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Old 06-27-2007, 10:14 PM   #20441
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Originally Posted by Jon Kerr View Post
When you shimmed your bell crank up, did you adjust the steering links to make sure your bump steer didn't change?
I am not sure I was explaining myself very well, but in short, yes, I shimmed the ball studs back down 3 mm to get rid of the bump steer introduced by rasing the bell crank

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Originally Posted by seaball View Post
between using the longest track rod, and an extension on your horn/saver, your steering should be lightning quick, at the expense of resolution and torque. you may want to consider a shorter track rod if you are using a long servo horn, or go back to the short saver and flip the ballstud to the bottom of the bellcrank to get a more preferred pushrod angle.

Great point. I had not thought of it in terms of leverage. I've yet to try the car this way, and will definitely pay close atention to the feel and see if McGoo won't let me borrow the shorter track rods to play with. That does eliminate the need for the 3mm up shims on the bellcrank. Lots of variables here to play with. I just want to be able to throw a LiPo in and still have a driveable car in the end. Thanks for the insight.

general - regarding the track rod options:

1) length: the longer the rod, the faster the steering, and more throw it will have w/o changing anything else. for a accurate comparison, you'll have to adjust your epa/dual rate to account for the change in lateral swing. if you were at full lock with the kit (long) rod, going shorter will require you to add steering travel in order to get to full lock again.

2) width: the wider the spacing, the more scrub (ackermann angle) is induced durring steering travel. the general concensus is that the narrow spacing (smaller ackermann angle) increases turn-in, and high speed steering, while the wider spacing yields a smoother car, that wraps low speed (tight) turns a little better.

compared to the mi2/ec the new bellcrank geometry is generally much quicker. it might be worth mentioning that there is a point of diminishing returns, which i think andrew could accidentally be approaching.
Very likely. Im not much of a set up guru, just trying to get things to work formyself and passing the knowledge gained along to anyone who might benefit.

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Originally Posted by Sigearhead View Post
If you want to run a servo saver just run the Kimborough medium and you won't have to make any modifications. It's a tiny bit shorter than the kit stock but you don't have to alter anything to make it work and the steering geometry should be the same as well.
The point in extending the servo saver was to move the servo horn ball stud up 3mm as that was the distance I moved the bell crank up. Thansk for the info about te medium Kimbrough though.

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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
True, but it does stop you using the Stiffer or Flxible top decks as the 'arm' sits too far away from the servo.

Skiddins
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Originally Posted by Darkseid View Post
On the topic of the servo saver. I have to say that I was more worried about this than anybody. And after looking at all the options, I decided to try running the car without the servo saver. And I have to tell you that you really don't need one. I've taken a couple hard hits and have suffered no damage at all. In fact, I don't even remember that I'm not running a servo saver until someone brings it up here.
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Originally Posted by seaball View Post
that definitely works. for me (and our ex-losi team driver who coudn't fit a saver in there) we have noticed that the centering/trims get out of whack easier without savers, and slop in the servo develops more quickly. my cars are more accurate/repeatable when i use [quality] savers. just something to consider.

I think this is what I discovered too seaball. I've been running 9550 without a saver, and have had all sorts of steering demons. I chased the trim all day during our last race. This is a new problem to me, and considering its the first car I've ever run without a saver, I thought I'd try and give a saver a try and see if it didn't eliminate my issues.

the 2.5mm chassis was supposed to have a longer recess under the servo so that we could run the kimbrough large saver and slide the servo back to facilitate mounting the ball from the front side of the saver, clearing all possible top deck options. this would have been a nice setup for carpet racing (or any 2x4 barrier tracks).

- craig turek -
So the large kimbrough saver is the correct length, but doesn't work well due to clearance iisues with both the topdeck and the chassis?

Thanks for all the helpful input fellas. I'll let you know if I come up with a magical solution!
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Old 06-28-2007, 04:53 AM   #20442
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
So the large kimbrough saver is the correct length, but doesn't work well due to clearance iisues with both the topdeck and the chassis?
This is a Kimbrough Medium, 201 i think....



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Old 06-28-2007, 05:02 AM   #20443
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Thansk for the pics skidins!
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Old 06-28-2007, 06:46 AM   #20444
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Originally Posted by Barger View Post
Jon...The book setup works pretty good on tarmac with rubbers ...I wonder why your setup(and others )have the shocks moved in at the top and rebound?
We all pretty much laid the shocks down at Reedy to calm the car down so it wouldn't react so fast. Also, laying the front shocks down will take away a little turn in and my car had too much turn in from the start.
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Old 06-28-2007, 07:04 AM   #20445
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This is a Kimbrough Medium, 201 i think....
i had mine like that originally, but realized that the ball stud would hit the servo and i couldn't get full throw turning to the left -



i am now just using the plastic servo horn - if i take a big enough hit, it will just take the teeth off the horn....at least thats what i am hoping for...lol
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