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Old 06-21-2007, 04:45 PM   #20341
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so what do I want to look for when i order my car for iic this year?
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Old 06-21-2007, 05:14 PM   #20342
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
A question on camber links,

I currently have 3mm vertical on the front and 2mm on the rear (Mi3). If I was to try to get more rear grip on a fairly smooth track, would adding even more to the rear help or make things worse?

I'm always unsure about when to try changing the length of the camber links as this wasn't an issue with the EC.

Thanks
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Adding shims and lowering the inner links has always let the rear rotate better but more controlled. (If that makes since)
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Old 06-21-2007, 06:08 PM   #20343
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Originally Posted by Mr. McGoo View Post
I am actually looking now for a little more off power initial steering, but just a smidge - any suggestions?
Put 1mm kickup in it and 2 deg caster blocks
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Old 06-21-2007, 06:40 PM   #20344
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OK guys, I just had the "pleasure" of changing a chassis on my Mi3 for the first time. I got the 5 cell chassis for this weekend. It took no more than 2 minutes. (Not counting electronics because I wanted to route the wiring a little differently and that took a little time to work out.) All the electronics out, pop off the bumper, take the 8 screws out of the bottom, and the whole car comes off the chassis. Set the car on the new chassis (being careful not to let the top deck flex too much) and put the 8 screws in. Make sure the car is flat like usual, and you're done. If your electronics are all wired like you want, add another few minutes to install them. 5-10 minutes at the most. I remember back in the day running a XXXS. The worst thing that could happen at the track would be a broken chassis. You were screwed. It'd be hours of work taking the whole car apart. Even the Mi2 and the EC you were looking at a lot of work to change a chassis. This thing is a dream to work on.
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Old 06-21-2007, 06:45 PM   #20345
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Originally Posted by Jon Kerr View Post
OK guys, I just had the "pleasure" of changing a chassis on my Mi3 for the first time. I got the 5 cell chassis for this weekend. It took no more than 2 minutes. (Not counting electronics because I wanted to route the wiring a little differently and that took a little time to work out.) All the electronics out, pop off the bumper, take the 8 screws out of the bottom, and the whole car comes off the chassis. Set the car on the new chassis (being careful not to let the top deck flex too much) and put the 8 screws in. Make sure the car is flat like usual, and you're done. If your electronics are all wired like you want, add another few minutes to install them. 5-10 minutes at the most. I remember back in the day running a XXXS. The worst thing that could happen at the track would be a broken chassis. You were screwed. It'd be hours of work taking the whole car apart. Even the Mi2 and the EC you were looking at a lot of work to change a chassis. This thing is a dream to work on.
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Old 06-21-2007, 08:26 PM   #20346
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What's the pn for those steel driveshafts?
AWD

I believe the part no is u2151. and correct me if im wrong but i think they are from the Mission 1. myself and a few of the other UK drivers are running them and have had no problems, so they are worth a try in my opinion

cheers

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Old 06-21-2007, 09:00 PM   #20347
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Originally Posted by justin lessard View Post
Put 1mm kickup in it and 2 deg caster blocks
thanks man - i will have to give that a try.......

but i think i will try shortening my front camber links first....










disclosure - don't try this at home kids - your car will be pushing like a dump truck.....
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Old 06-21-2007, 09:26 PM   #20348
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Originally Posted by Mr. McGoo View Post
thanks man - i will have to give that a try.......

but i think i will try shortening my front camber links first....










disclosure - don't try this at home kids - your car will be pushing like a dump truck.....
Seaball is right..you'll gain initial but lose it elsewhere..kickup makes it easier for the suspension to compress on entry..the 2 deg blocks are to keep the caster the same so you gain initial and dont lose it anywhere else...but you can lower the front diff too or put some arm sweep in and get more initial DISCLAIMER:this is what works for me,but opinions will vary

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Old 06-22-2007, 08:41 AM   #20349
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Originally Posted by justin lessard View Post
Seaball is right..you'll gain initial but lose it elsewhere..kickup makes it easier for the suspension to compress on entry..the 2 deg blocks are to keep the caster the same so you gain initial and dont lose it anywhere else...but you can lower the front diff too or put some arm sweep in and get more initial DISCLAIMER:this is what works for me,but opinions will vary

look at Lessard be all smart and stuff......i might just have to try that - 2 degrees seemed like it would not have any initial - but i guess if you run some kickup that will help it out......
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Old 06-22-2007, 09:09 AM   #20350
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Steering rack set

ok...need a little help understanding the different steering racks.
short/wide & narrow, medium narrow, etc. There are quite a few in the set pack....
what effects does each have ...

Thanks any help would be appreciate.

ohh..update....just installed the 2.5 lower deck...and it makes the car uber stiff.....
- droop area is a little wider to eliminate problems in the area.
- less cutouts in the chassis
- servo area has 1 cutout which looks to accomodate different type of servo savers. thumbs up on that!!!
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Old 06-22-2007, 09:38 AM   #20351
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Originally Posted by Jon Kerr View Post
OK guys, I just had the "pleasure" of changing a chassis on my Mi3 for the first time. I got the 5 cell chassis for this weekend. It took no more than 2 minutes. (Not counting electronics because I wanted to route the wiring a little differently and that took a little time to work out.) All the electronics out, pop off the bumper, take the 8 screws out of the bottom, and the whole car comes off the chassis. Set the car on the new chassis (being careful not to let the top deck flex too much) and put the 8 screws in. Make sure the car is flat like usual, and you're done. If your electronics are all wired like you want, add another few minutes to install them. 5-10 minutes at the most. I remember back in the day running a XXXS. The worst thing that could happen at the track would be a broken chassis. You were screwed. It'd be hours of work taking the whole car apart. Even the Mi2 and the EC you were looking at a lot of work to change a chassis. This thing is a dream to work on.

sweet isnt it!! what took me a while was to rewire the car
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Old 06-22-2007, 11:17 AM   #20352
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Originally Posted by olhipster1 View Post
Steering rack set

ok...need a little help understanding the different steering racks.
short/wide & narrow, medium narrow, etc. There are quite a few in the set pack....
what effects does each have ...

Thanks any help would be appreciate.

Hi olhipster

I've done a bit of testing with the lengths of the steering racks on asphalt with rubber tyres. I found the shorter the length of the link, the less responsive the car is.

The 2 I have mainly been testing with is the med/med and the short/med (short length, medium distance between holes). I ran the short/med 1 hole forward on the plate to get similar ackerman to the med/med. The short just pushed more into the corner.

I prefer med/med on rubber tyres.

I haven't done any testing with the width of the rack, but I believe that the wider racks should make the car turn harder, and the thinner rack should make it smoother. But without testing them I can't be 100% sure

Hope this makes sense
Cheers

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Last edited by Jonny Aird; 06-22-2007 at 01:48 PM.
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Old 06-22-2007, 03:02 PM   #20353
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I want to ask this for a friend that is despritely want the Mi3...anywhere in US that sells Mi3 now...? I mean instock....not in 3 months waiting list like those ebay BS.......thanks.
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Old 06-22-2007, 03:14 PM   #20354
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check steve at www.speedtechrc.com

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Old 06-22-2007, 03:50 PM   #20355
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Originally Posted by Solara View Post
I want to ask this for a friend that is despritely want the Mi3...anywhere in US that sells Mi3 now...? I mean instock....not in 3 months waiting list like those ebay BS.......thanks.

Go now to: www.fasttrackhobbies.com

they have the most Mi3 in stock all the time and the best prices and service- they ship overseas, also.
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