Schumacher Corner
06-21-2007, 04:45 PM
car
so what do I want to look for when i order my car for iic this year?
06-21-2007, 05:14 PM
A question on camber links,
I currently have 3mm vertical on the front and 2mm on the rear (Mi3). If I was to try to get more rear grip on a fairly smooth track, would adding even more to the rear help or make things worse?
I'm always unsure about when to try changing the length of the camber links as this wasn't an issue with the EC.
Thanks
Skiddins
I currently have 3mm vertical on the front and 2mm on the rear (Mi3). If I was to try to get more rear grip on a fairly smooth track, would adding even more to the rear help or make things worse?
I'm always unsure about when to try changing the length of the camber links as this wasn't an issue with the EC.
Thanks
Skiddins
06-21-2007, 06:08 PM
06-21-2007, 06:40 PM
OK guys, I just had the "pleasure" of changing a chassis on my Mi3 for the first time. I got the 5 cell chassis for this weekend. It took no more than 2 minutes. (Not counting electronics because I wanted to route the wiring a little differently and that took a little time to work out.) All the electronics out, pop off the bumper, take the 8 screws out of the bottom, and the whole car comes off the chassis. Set the car on the new chassis (being careful not to let the top deck flex too much) and put the 8 screws in. Make sure the car is flat like usual, and you're done. If your electronics are all wired like you want, add another few minutes to install them. 5-10 minutes at the most. I remember back in the day running a XXXS. The worst thing that could happen at the track would be a broken chassis. You were screwed. It'd be hours of work taking the whole car apart. Even the Mi2 and the EC you were looking at a lot of work to change a chassis. This thing is a dream to work on. 
06-21-2007, 06:45 PM
OK guys, I just had the "pleasure" of changing a chassis on my Mi3 for the first time. I got the 5 cell chassis for this weekend. It took no more than 2 minutes. (Not counting electronics because I wanted to route the wiring a little differently and that took a little time to work out.) All the electronics out, pop off the bumper, take the 8 screws out of the bottom, and the whole car comes off the chassis. Set the car on the new chassis (being careful not to let the top deck flex too much) and put the 8 screws in. Make sure the car is flat like usual, and you're done. If your electronics are all wired like you want, add another few minutes to install them. 5-10 minutes at the most. I remember back in the day running a XXXS. The worst thing that could happen at the track would be a broken chassis. You were screwed. It'd be hours of work taking the whole car apart. Even the Mi2 and the EC you were looking at a lot of work to change a chassis. This thing is a dream to work on.
06-21-2007, 08:26 PM
I believe the part no is u2151. and correct me if im wrong but i think they are from the Mission 1. myself and a few of the other UK drivers are running them and have had no problems, so they are worth a try in my opinion
cheers
jonny
06-21-2007, 09:00 PM
06-21-2007, 09:26 PM
Seaball is right..you'll gain initial but lose it elsewhere..kickup makes it easier for the suspension to compress on entry..the 2 deg blocks are to keep the caster the same so you gain initial and dont lose it anywhere else...but you can lower the front diff too or put some arm sweep in and get more initial DISCLAIMER:this is what works for me,but opinions will vary
Last edited by justin lessard; 06-21-2007 at 10:05 PM.
06-22-2007, 08:41 AM
Seaball is right..you'll gain initial but lose it elsewhere..kickup makes it easier for the suspension to compress on entry..the 2 deg blocks are to keep the caster the same so you gain initial and dont lose it anywhere else...but you can lower the front diff too or put some arm sweep in and get more initial DISCLAIMER:this is what works for me,but opinions will vary
look at Lessard be all smart and stuff......i might just have to try that - 2 degrees seemed like it would not have any initial - but i guess if you run some kickup that will help it out......
06-22-2007, 09:09 AM
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Steering rack set
ok...need a little help understanding the different steering racks.
short/wide & narrow, medium narrow, etc. There are quite a few in the set pack....
what effects does each have ...
Thanks any help would be appreciate.
ohh..update....just installed the 2.5 lower deck...and it makes the car uber stiff.....
- droop area is a little wider to eliminate problems in the area.
- less cutouts in the chassis
- servo area has 1 cutout which looks to accomodate different type of servo savers. thumbs up on that!!!
ok...need a little help understanding the different steering racks.
short/wide & narrow, medium narrow, etc. There are quite a few in the set pack....
what effects does each have ...
Thanks any help would be appreciate.
ohh..update....just installed the 2.5 lower deck...and it makes the car uber stiff.....
- droop area is a little wider to eliminate problems in the area.
- less cutouts in the chassis
- servo area has 1 cutout which looks to accomodate different type of servo savers. thumbs up on that!!!
06-22-2007, 09:38 AM
OK guys, I just had the "pleasure" of changing a chassis on my Mi3 for the first time. I got the 5 cell chassis for this weekend. It took no more than 2 minutes. (Not counting electronics because I wanted to route the wiring a little differently and that took a little time to work out.) All the electronics out, pop off the bumper, take the 8 screws out of the bottom, and the whole car comes off the chassis. Set the car on the new chassis (being careful not to let the top deck flex too much) and put the 8 screws in. Make sure the car is flat like usual, and you're done. If your electronics are all wired like you want, add another few minutes to install them. 5-10 minutes at the most. I remember back in the day running a XXXS. The worst thing that could happen at the track would be a broken chassis. You were screwed. It'd be hours of work taking the whole car apart. Even the Mi2 and the EC you were looking at a lot of work to change a chassis. This thing is a dream to work on.
sweet isnt it!! what took me a while was to rewire the car
06-22-2007, 11:17 AM
Hi olhipster
I've done a bit of testing with the lengths of the steering racks on asphalt with rubber tyres. I found the shorter the length of the link, the less responsive the car is.
The 2 I have mainly been testing with is the med/med and the short/med (short length, medium distance between holes). I ran the short/med 1 hole forward on the plate to get similar ackerman to the med/med. The short just pushed more into the corner.
I prefer med/med on rubber tyres.
I haven't done any testing with the width of the rack, but I believe that the wider racks should make the car turn harder, and the thinner rack should make it smoother. But without testing them I can't be 100% sure
Hope this makes sense
Cheers
Jonny
Last edited by Jonny Aird; 06-22-2007 at 01:48 PM.
06-22-2007, 03:02 PM
I want to ask this for a friend that is despritely want the Mi3...anywhere in US that sells Mi3 now...? I mean instock....not in 3 months waiting list like those ebay BS.......thanks.
06-22-2007, 03:14 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
06-22-2007, 03:50 PM
Go now to: www.fasttrackhobbies.com
they have the most Mi3 in stock all the time and the best prices and service- they ship overseas, also.
