Schumacher Corner
Tech Apprentice
The front vertical camber link you have at 1mm instead of 2mm? That could have a little to do just because it's going to give you more steering and more grip with the front end. And if conditions make for a loose race car, that will accentuate it. Is the rear end loose going into the corner, coming out, or everywhere? Does it have kind of a "pushy loose" feeling like the front end slides to a point and then the rear whips around?
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (9)
as AWD said, I have been running the REALLY tight diff with alot of success. We run on really low traction, and when i was at another track - the spool worked best there.
my diff is super tight - it just gives a little if needed. when you hand turn the front wheels, it actually turns all 4 wheels just like a spool....this really helped calm the front end down.
my diff is super tight - it just gives a little if needed. when you hand turn the front wheels, it actually turns all 4 wheels just like a spool....this really helped calm the front end down.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Usually if a car is pushy loose, it's not a problem with the setup. It's a problem with overall traction. The car won't be "in" the track and won't feel like it's gripping anything. The first thing I'd normally look at is tires. What tire/wheel/insert are you using? Are you running the same tire/wheel/insert combo that everyone else is running at that track? What are you using for tire sauce if any?
Also, if your track is just very low grip and your tire and tire prep is the same as others not having this issue, I'd suggesting just trying to soften the car up as much as you can. Add droop all around, take off swaybars, softer springs, etc... Low grip tracks will usually need a car that transfers weight.
Also, if your track is just very low grip and your tire and tire prep is the same as others not having this issue, I'd suggesting just trying to soften the car up as much as you can. Add droop all around, take off swaybars, softer springs, etc... Low grip tracks will usually need a car that transfers weight.
Last edited by Jon Kerr; 06-21-2007 at 08:47 AM.
Tech Apprentice
maybe it was the tyres then, as i was using sorex 32rs and it did go abit nippy so that maybe what was it.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Very possible. Before you go changing the whole car around, I'd check to see what tires other people are running. I've made tire changes testing things and took a decent race car with one set of tires and literally did 4 wheel burnouts and slides with a different tire. Some tires just don't grip on some surfaces. Others grip too much. We couldn't run RP tires at SoCal (high grip indoor asphalt) because we kept traction rolling. So we ran tires like Sorex 32's and 36's.
Tech Apprentice
do you think i should still change the vertical camber link aswell?
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Yeah, just so we know exactly where your car is so we can go from there. 1mm on a vertical camber link location can be quote a bit. Make that change, find out what tires are being run. If the tires are different, try the car like it is with those tires and go from there. If the tires you ran are what everyone is running (tire prep as well, i.e. sauce, warmers, etc...) then you need to look at what to do to the car.
Tech Apprentice
right ok, i will try the additive that they use, and will try the camber link adjustment. thank you for your time
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
Tech Rookie
Jordan i have 3mm on the verticle link have a look on sunday at the torc
its richard by the way
its richard by the way
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Anybody have a part number for the Schumacher diff grease aka the "best diff grease on the market"(as quoted by AdrianM)
I just finished rebuilding my diff because it wasn't as smooth as I wanted when I first built it, plus I rebuilt my Tamiya diffs using the Schumacher grease, so now I'm out and need some more. But I couldn't find the part#.
Thanks in advance.
I just finished rebuilding my diff because it wasn't as smooth as I wanted when I first built it, plus I rebuilt my Tamiya diffs using the Schumacher grease, so now I'm out and need some more. But I couldn't find the part#.
Thanks in advance.
Tech Apprentice
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
Anybody have a part number for the Schumacher diff grease aka the "best diff grease on the market"(as quoted by AdrianM)
I just finished rebuilding my diff because it wasn't as smooth as I wanted when I first built it, plus I rebuilt my Tamiya diffs using the Schumacher grease, so now I'm out and need some more. But I couldn't find the part#.
Thanks in advance.
I just finished rebuilding my diff because it wasn't as smooth as I wanted when I first built it, plus I rebuilt my Tamiya diffs using the Schumacher grease, so now I'm out and need some more. But I couldn't find the part#.
Thanks in advance.
Skiddins
Yeah, just so we know exactly where your car is so we can go from there. 1mm on a vertical camber link location can be quote a bit. Make that change, find out what tires are being run. If the tires are different, try the car like it is with those tires and go from there. If the tires you ran are what everyone is running (tire prep as well, i.e. sauce, warmers, etc...) then you need to look at what to do to the car.
I currently have 3mm vertical on the front and 2mm on the rear (Mi3). If I was to try to get more rear grip on a fairly smooth track, would adding even more to the rear help or make things worse?
I'm always unsure about when to try changing the length of the camber links as this wasn't an issue with the EC.
Thanks
Skiddins