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Old 06-17-2007, 03:38 AM   #20221
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I ran the MI3 for the first time today and love the car. I had one problem with it though. After 4 5min races the rear blades on drive shafts were shot and need replacing. I only ran 27t stock so I thought they might of lasted longer than 4 runs. Has anyone had this problem and where is the best place to get replacements?
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Old 06-17-2007, 07:30 AM   #20222
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The EC had pin troubles but that got fixed with a new set of drive shafts. Now the MI3 also has pin troubles. How can that be? Weren't they fixed on the EC?

@woozer: The front blades wear out fast if running a spool and so do the rears if running mod, but 27T shouldn't wear out that fast. Sure you didn't stretch them too much when mounting?

Last edited by Jan Larsen; 06-17-2007 at 07:47 AM.
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Old 06-17-2007, 08:18 AM   #20223
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Originally Posted by woozer71 View Post
I ran the MI3 for the first time today and love the car. I had one problem with it though. After 4 5min races the rear blades on drive shafts were shot and need replacing. I only ran 27t stock so I thought they might of lasted longer than 4 runs. Has anyone had this problem and where is the best place to get replacements?
I was running my rear blades about 5 times at the Reedy Race before replacing them, and it was just to take out a little bit of slop that I did it, not because they were worn out. Something may be wrong that would cause them to wear so fast, check that the bearings in your hub arent binding at all, and basically just check the whole rest of the rear end for binds, everything should be completely free..
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Old 06-17-2007, 08:20 AM   #20224
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On another note, I'm about to head out to our local carpet track to try my hand ad rubber tire carpet racing for my first time ever in 10 years of racing. I'm just praying I dont have one of those cars that traction rolls around every turn, as I really wont know what to do to fix it, lol.
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Old 06-17-2007, 08:28 AM   #20225
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On another note, I'm about to head out to our local carpet track to try my hand ad rubber tire carpet racing for my first time ever in 10 years of racing. I'm just praying I dont have one of those cars that traction rolls around every turn, as I really wont know what to do to fix it, lol.
PW's car was great yesterday running rubber carpet he won every round and the main
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Old 06-17-2007, 08:48 AM   #20226
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Hi

How does one get less toe in on the Mi2-EC Foam spec kit, i am needing to get between 0 and 1 degree of rear toe in.

Thanks
The EC foam chassis should have 1.5 rear toe from the kit. I guess you could get the plastic pivot blocks from the Mi2 and mount them with the ridge outward. This should give you 1 or .5. Just out of curiosity, why would you want to run that little rear toe? That's going to be really hard to drive.
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Old 06-17-2007, 08:50 AM   #20227
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The EC foam chassis should have 1.5 rear toe from the kit. I guess you could get the plastic pivot blocks from the Mi2 and mount them with the ridge outward. This should give you 1 or .5. Just out of curiosity, why would you want to run that little rear toe? That's going to be really hard to drive.
im pretty sure thats normal for foam in carpet i ran 1 degree toe on my cyclone
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Old 06-17-2007, 09:33 AM   #20228
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PW's car was great yesterday running rubber carpet he won every round and the main
Ive been doing a bit of rubber carpet back here in the uk, has PW got a setup sheet that can be posted, ive found the car to be realy quick, though slightly twitchy, and the other problem is for the first let say 2 - 3 laps the car struggles to find grip (been going with the chris ashtons test carpet setup)

Other than that im realy happy with the car
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Old 06-17-2007, 09:36 AM   #20229
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Hiya,

Thanks for the reply, i thought the EC Foam came with 2.5 rear toe? , if i ran the plastic mi2 blocks, wouldn't i only get it down to 1.5 ?. On my mission i always run 1 to 0.5 toe. The mission is easier to set toe with the turnbuckles, i could always mount front caster blocks and steering knuckles with some turnbuckles attached to the rear, to make an mi-EC rear

Thanks
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Old 06-17-2007, 09:36 AM   #20230
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Ive been doing a bit of rubber carpet back here in the uk, has PW got a setup sheet that can be posted, ive found the car to be realy quick, though slightly twitchy, and the other problem is for the first let say 2 - 3 laps the car struggles to find grip (been going with the chris ashtons test carpet setup)

Other than that im realy happy with the car
from what i can rember ha ran basically his set up from FSEARA race with the rear diff lower,Tamiya yellow springs in the rear, Tamiya blues in the front , kit sway bars and i think he ran 35 wt oil but im not 100% sure
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Old 06-17-2007, 12:43 PM   #20231
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from what i can rember ha ran basically his set up from FSEARA race with the rear diff lower,Tamiya yellow springs in the rear, Tamiya blues in the front , kit sway bars and i think he ran 35 wt oil but im not 100% sure

How do the Tamiya springs sompare to the schuie ones? Blue Front and White Rear?

Been using this myself and really like it

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Old 06-17-2007, 01:03 PM   #20232
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I have a 5 month old Mi2EC for sale includes:-
new grey belts
new front wishbones NIP
full roll bar set

The car is very neat and tidy, only ever had a 27T stock run in it and is still very tight and clean. All delrin bits still very white and new looking. pictures available on request.

yours 100 + postage about 10.
May even throw a nearly new PF dodge 3 190mm bodyshell too.
PM me if you are interested.
cheers
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Old 06-17-2007, 01:06 PM   #20233
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Originally Posted by MoonTrap View Post
Hiya,

Thanks for the reply, i thought the EC Foam came with 2.5 rear toe? , if i ran the plastic mi2 blocks, wouldn't i only get it down to 1.5 ?. On my mission i always run 1 to 0.5 toe. The mission is easier to set toe with the turnbuckles, i could always mount front caster blocks and steering knuckles with some turnbuckles attached to the rear, to make an mi-EC rear

Thanks
No, the EC foam spec chassis with the stock aluminum pivot blocks will give 1.5 of rear toe on each side. Putting the plastic blocks on will either take .5 out if the ridge is mounted on the outside or it will add 1 with the ridge mounted to the inside. But also make sure you check your roll centers. The plastic blocks put the hinge pins .5mm higher than the alloy blocks. So take .5mm shim out to make sure the pin height stays the same.
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Old 06-17-2007, 04:40 PM   #20234
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Jan the blades were already mounted when I purchase the kit so whether the were stretched from the factory I don't know.
With the rear end it is really free so I don't think there is a binding issue. How loose do you guys run your rear diffs. I run on ashphalt smooth surface.
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Old 06-17-2007, 05:05 PM   #20235
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Originally Posted by whoopass View Post
I have a 5 month old Mi2EC for sale includes:-
new grey belts
new front wishbones NIP
full roll bar set

The car is very neat and tidy, only ever had a 27T stock run in it and is still very tight and clean. All delrin bits still very white and new looking. pictures available on request.

yours 100 + postage about 10.
May even throw a nearly new PF dodge 3 190mm bodyshell too.
PM me if you are interested.
cheers
Rob, what are you going to run now?

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