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Old 05-29-2007, 11:23 AM   #19726
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Originally Posted by yyhayyim
Just making sure...you wont belive how many "good" drivers down here give some strange explanation of what that means...some measure droop using the Xray manual method, which instructs one to remove shocks and use droop gauge. Others use the magic "David Jun" formula, etc...others have some other methods, but opposite of this...just making sure...
well i got it from PW himself so I wouldnt steer you wrong
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Old 05-29-2007, 11:28 AM   #19727
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[QUOTE=yyhayyim]Thanks Jon...well the Hb Cyclones run 2.5 deg block of front inboard toe, or as you refer to it "sweep", and it comes stock like that. I have driven them and they have lots of steering...it seems to work fine for their cars...QUOTE]


I happen to run a cyclone WCE and thinking about switching to a MAch. the cyclone does come with 2.5 degree pivot block and a 3 degree in the back. I run on carpet so the only change that I did was in the front. I changed it to a 0 degree pivot block.

I know that when you use pivot blocks in the front of the HB cyclone the lower the number the less steering that you will have. That is the reason why i went to a 0 degree in the front because I didn't want my cart to be darty on Carpet. 2.5 in the front is great for rubber tire onroad. so the more degrees you add to the front, the more steering you get.

In the rear, the higer the degree on the pivot block, the more rear traction you have. The cyclone came with stock 3.0 in the back and I haven't changed it because I need the grip in the rear of the car.

Now I don't know what effects this has on the Mach but I just wanted to add some input since I drive a cyclone.
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Old 05-29-2007, 11:29 AM   #19728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yyhayyim
Thanks Jon...well the Hb Cyclones run 2.5 deg block of front inboard toe, or as you refer to it "sweep", and it comes stock like that. I have driven them and they have lots of steering...it seems to work fine for their cars...

I happen to run a cyclone WCE and thinking about switching to a MAch. the cyclone does come with 2.5 degree pivot block and a 3 degree in the back. I run on carpet so the only change that I did was in the front. I changed it to a 0 degree pivot block.

I know that when you use pivot blocks in the front of the HB cyclone the lower the number the less steering that you will have. That is the reason why i went to a 0 degree in the front because I didn't want my cart to be darty on Carpet. 2.5 in the front is great for rubber tire onroad. so the more degrees you add to the front, the more steering you get.

In the rear, the higer the degree on the pivot block, the more rear traction you have. The cyclone came with stock 3.0 in the back and I haven't changed it because I need the grip in the rear of the car.

Now I don't know what effects this has on the Mach but I just wanted to add some input since I drive a cyclone.
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Old 05-29-2007, 11:30 AM   #19729
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Originally Posted by Elboogie
I happen to run a cyclone WCE and thinking about switching to a MAch. the cyclone does come with 2.5 degree pivot block and a 3 degree in the back. I run on carpet so the only change that I did was in the front. I changed it to a 0 degree pivot block.

I know that when you use pivot blocks in the front of the HB cyclone the lower the number the less steering that you will have. That is the reason why i went to a 0 degree in the front because I didn't want my cart to be darty on Carpet. 2.5 in the front is great for rubber tire onroad. so the more degrees you add to the front, the more steering you get.

In the rear, the higer the degree on the pivot block, the more rear traction you have. The cyclone came with stock 3.0 in the back and I haven't changed it because I need the grip in the rear of the car.

Now I don't know what effects this has on the Mach but I just wanted to add some input since I drive a cyclone.
Thanks...good stuff...get the Mi3...look at it as the new version of what a Cyclone should be like...
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Old 05-29-2007, 11:34 AM   #19730
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When you go about setting up your car what order do you perform your setup in? This is what I do below (in order) but is this way ideal or do you recommend something better?

1. Droop - With the chassis flat on the ground measuring to the top of the drive axle.
2. Camber (front and rear)
3. Toe In/Out (front)
4. Ride Height
5. Check tweak between runs by pushing the car up in the center of the chassis with an exacto knife and then adjusting the droop screws accordingly
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Old 05-29-2007, 11:35 AM   #19731
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Originally Posted by yyhayyim
Thanks...good stuff...get the Mi3...look at it as the new version of what a Cyclone should be like...
well X- brand too since they like to copy every thing
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Old 05-29-2007, 11:36 AM   #19732
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Old 05-29-2007, 11:36 AM   #19733
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J
well i got it from PW himself so I wouldnt steer you wrong
I understand and appreciate your sincere help. I just wanted to make sure, that's all...by the way, I did some research, and it looks like you are tight with PW and Adrian, so...that makes your input that much valuable and credible...supposedly your a very good driver and have every car out in the market...good driver, with deep pockets and a good boss- cant beat that
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Old 05-29-2007, 11:38 AM   #19734
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yyhayyim
I understand and appreciate your sincere help. I just wanted to make sure, that's all...by the way, I did some research, and it looks like you are tight with PW and Adrian, so...that makes your input that much valuable and credible...supposedly your a very good driver and have every car out in the market...good driver, with deep pockets and a good boss- cant beat that
well im good friends with both of them , i do have a few cars, but as good driver?? I wouldnt say that Im far from that and as far as a boss ( the wife )
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Old 05-29-2007, 11:39 AM   #19735
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Originally Posted by sf85
When you go about setting up your car what order do you perform your setup in? This is what I do below (in order) but is this way ideal or do you recommend something better?

1. Droop - With the chassis flat on the ground measuring to the top of the drive axle.
2. Camber (front and rear)
3. Toe In/Out (front)
4. Ride Height
5. Check tweak between runs by pushing the car up in the center of the chassis with an exacto knife and then adjusting the droop screws accordingly
Get the Xray t2 set-up book. These steps are discussed and explaine in color and with lots of info on set-up theory. They have flow charts and logical steps on how to get your car set up. Its really good stuff...
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Old 05-29-2007, 11:46 AM   #19736
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Originally Posted by yyhayyim
Get the Xray t2 set-up book. These steps are discussed and explaine in color and with lots of info on set-up theory. They have flow charts and logical steps on how to get your car set up. Its really good stuff...
Nice find, im going to check it out, thanks
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Old 05-29-2007, 11:50 AM   #19737
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Originally Posted by sf85
Nice find, im going to check it out, thanks
its the best info available from a great company and group of top notch racers...their set up book is second to none...you wont be sorry.
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Old 05-29-2007, 12:37 PM   #19738
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Talking TH NExt big Race

When is the next big race team Schumacher is preparing for?
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Old 05-29-2007, 01:00 PM   #19739
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and will there be alot of groupies there? can i get an official statement from someone on this? preferably within 20 minutes or so.
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Old 05-29-2007, 01:12 PM   #19740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sf85
When you go about setting up your car what order do you perform your setup in? This is what I do below (in order) but is this way ideal or do you recommend something better?

1. Droop - With the chassis flat on the ground measuring to the top of the drive axle.
2. Camber (front and rear)
3. Toe In/Out (front)
4. Ride Height
5. Check tweak between runs by pushing the car up in the center of the chassis with an exacto knife and then adjusting the droop screws accordingly
Here's the order I do all of this.

1. Set your ride height.
2. Set your droop above ride height.
3. Take tires off and use droop blocks to make sure your droop is even. (This isn't to actually set your droop, only to make sure both sides are even. Use this time to make sure the chassis is flat on the droop blocks and not rocking back and forth.)
4. Put on setup station to check camber and toe.
5. Take off setup station and put on tires.
6. Check tweak on a tweak station or by lifting one end at a time. Don't adjust by droop screws. You've already made sure the droop is equal on both sides. Use your shock collars. If you have to have too much of a difference in your preload, double check your droop settings and that the chassis is flat.

Last edited by Jon Kerr; 05-29-2007 at 01:41 PM.
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