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Old 05-20-2007, 10:27 PM   #19321
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Originally Posted by PW
Actually it comes with all of them:

14lb
16lb
18lb
20lb
23lb
27lb
Thanks Paul, that's what I needed
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Old 05-21-2007, 06:27 AM   #19322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dawgmeat
it's time to remove Mi3 (soon) from your avatar
Oh man I forgot about that. Thanks.
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Old 05-21-2007, 06:47 AM   #19323
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Originally Posted by AdrianM
I ran my Mi3 for the firwst time at B&B hobbies in Hudson FL. I used PW's FSEARA #3 setup and it was dialed. I added .5mm shims in the rear for a little more toe and it was perfect. It had loads of steering and corner speed. At the end of the day I was at 85% dual rate where I was normally at 95-100% eith my Mi2EC.

I also ran the new Core Racing 5000 LiPo pack. I was just as fast as anyone there and just kept repeaking the pack for every run. FYI, I used only 2200mah in a 5 min 19T run.
post a pic of your lipo car
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Old 05-21-2007, 08:05 AM   #19324
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I took off work today to assemble my Mi3. Chassis sanded and ready for CA.
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Old 05-21-2007, 08:11 AM   #19325
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Originally Posted by JayBee
Thanks Paul, that's what I needed
my bad - thought you were asking about the car itself....

hey - i tried......i'll just keep my mouth shut from now on....lol
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Old 05-21-2007, 08:15 AM   #19326
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Originally Posted by wyd
Here is my MI3.
Nice paint job!
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Old 05-21-2007, 08:53 AM   #19327
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Originally Posted by Kevin K
Hey Guys I ran my Mi3 last night on carpet with rubber tires and it was great. I built the car with the kit setup and made a few changes and it was really good. This car is just plain awesome right out of the box.....good job everyone at Schumacher. Here are some pics of my car.....

Nice Mr. Modest Kev.

I heard through the grapevine you won that trophy race deal at Harbor Hobbies Sat. night. Awesome!!
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Old 05-21-2007, 09:16 AM   #19328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James khoo
Nice paint job!
Thanks.
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Old 05-21-2007, 09:27 AM   #19329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nexus
Nice Mr. Modest Kev.

I heard through the grapevine you won that trophy race deal at Harbor Hobbies Sat. night. Awesome!!

lol....thanks. The car is really good right out of the box. Howard had his MI2ec working great as well....I guess Terrance has a MI3 on order so there looks to be plenty of them around now locally. Im just amazed at how quiet and smooth the drive train is on the car.....no tweak issues is great. Running a brushless motor and rubber tires is like no maintenance its great ask Euge. You need to get out there again......
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Old 05-21-2007, 09:46 AM   #19330
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Some observations on the Mi3...

1) the bulkheads- titianium bulkheads, though more expensive, will reduce weight, drastically. You can save 10-15g per bulk head, for almost 50g total. Also, the stock aluminum bulkheads need can be modified a bit to reduce weight in some areas to at least loose some weight. The bulkheads where the suspension mounts go, can be modified to feature 3 or 4 additional mouinting holes, vertically, so that one can easily change suspension's roll center and or add kick-up, antidive, etc, by just removing the screws and putting them on the next hole up/down, instead of taking the suspension blocks out and adding/removing shims and then mounting it back on the bulkheads.

2) Also the suspension blocks, they can be made out of plastic. The Xray T2 uses plastic on theirs and they are tough and very light compared to aluminum ones. Here another 20-25g can be saved in total by running optional "plastic" like blocks.

3) The vertical links- currently the the ball stud is set from the bottom. If it was reversed, and the ball stud faced up, you can use a ball stud with hexed head, ream a hole on the ballcup and this will allow one to make easy and fast adjusment to your vertical link. Just unscrew the ball stud, add/remove shims, and screw back on. The current system seems a bit more complicated, since its facing down, which means you have to remove the vertical link and then detach the ballcup, unscrew the ballstud, add/remove shims, and then reconnect the ballcup, and then place the link back on the bulkhead. Also, additional holes can be added to the vertical link, like on HB Cyclone cars, which have 4-5 holes on the bulkheads, so taht you can use different positions to change link length easily...

These are just a few details that can make working on the car that much easier and lighter in weight. I love this Car!!!!
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Old 05-21-2007, 10:02 AM   #19331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dawgmeat
post a pic of your lipo car
Here you go!

The Lipo is shifted out 5mm to clear the steering bell crank. When the shorter center track rods arrive you will be able to move the bell crank forward and run any lipo in the normal location.
Attached Thumbnails
Schumacher Corner-mi3-lipo-1.jpg   Schumacher Corner-mi3-lipo-2.jpg  
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Old 05-21-2007, 10:07 AM   #19332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Here you go!

The Lipo is shifted out 5mm to clear the steering bell crank. When the shorter center track rods arrive you will be able to move the bell crank forward and run any lipo in the normal location.
Adrian how much weight did you add? How much does the stock battery weigh? How much does your car weigh ready to run with battery but w/out weights, and with weights?
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Old 05-21-2007, 10:10 AM   #19333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yyhayyim
Some observations on the Mi3...

1) the bulkheads- titianium bulkheads, though more expensive, will reduce weight, drastically. You can save 10-15g per bulk head, for almost 50g total. Also, the stock aluminum bulkheads need can be modified a bit to reduce weight in some areas to at least loose some weight. The bulkheads where the suspension mounts go, can be modified to feature 3 or 4 additional mouinting holes, vertically, so that one can easily change suspension's roll center and or add kick-up, antidive, etc, by just removing the screws and putting them on the next hole up/down, instead of taking the suspension blocks out and adding/removing shims and then mounting it back on the bulkheads.
Titianium is 6% heavier than Aluminum so Ti bulkheads would make the car heavier.

Quote:
2) Also the suspension blocks, they can be made out of plastic. The Xray T2 uses plastic on theirs and they are tough and very light compared to aluminum ones. Here another 20-25g can be saved in total by running optional "plastic" like blocks.
This could be done but the blocks would have to be one piece with fixed roll center steps.



Quote:
3) The vertical links- currently the the ball stud is set from the bottom. If it was reversed, and the ball stud faced up, you can use a ball stud with hexed head, ream a hole on the ballcup and this will allow one to make easy and fast adjusment to your vertical link. Just unscrew the ball stud, add/remove shims, and screw back on. The current system seems a bit more complicated, since its facing down, which means you have to remove the vertical link and then detach the ballcup, unscrew the ballstud, add/remove shims, and then reconnect the ballcup, and then place the link back on the bulkhead. Also, additional holes can be added to the vertical link, like on HB Cyclone cars, which have 4-5 holes on the bulkheads, so taht you can use different positions to change link length easily...
If you do as you say you will have to remove the camber link mounts to get at the diff. This is a step backwards. So are side by side ball stud holes. The whole point of the way we did it was to let racers put the pivot ball anywhere in space you want to put it.
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Old 05-21-2007, 10:12 AM   #19334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yyhayyim
Adrian how much weight did you add? How much does the stock battery weigh? How much does your car weigh ready to run with battery but w/out weights, and with weights?
Since I moved the batt out a bit I only needed 90G to balance the car. The Core Lipo is 160g lighter than a IB4200WC pack. If you tucked the battery back into the normal location you would need to add almost all of the 160g to balance the car.
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Old 05-21-2007, 10:39 AM   #19335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM

1-Titianium is 6% heavier than Aluminum so Ti bulkheads would make the car heavier.

2-This could be done but the blocks would have to be one piece with fixed roll center steps.

3-If you do as you say you will have to remove the camber link mounts to get at the diff. This is a step backwards. So are side by side ball stud holes. The whole point of the way we did it was to let racers put the pivot ball anywhere in space you want to put it.


#2- Suspension blocks- i dont understand why it would have to be one piece...U3130 and U3129 can be made of tough "plastic", like the xray T2 type, and it should work the same as the aluminum ones...

Cocerning #3- parts#U3133, can be made so that the it can accomodate the the installation of the ballstuds and shims from above, instead of from below, as it is currently. its basically flipping it over. Also, it has one hole location. You can add more holes to the right and left, for quick changes, and leave the shims for fine tuning. This will give you the quick change option, while at the same time give racers the ability to put the pivot ball anywhere in space they want to put it. And its much easier to work with, since all you'd need to do is stick the driver in the ball stud, pulll it out, change holes and out back in place if you just wanted to mess with the legth of the link and still retain its position in space with the shims. However, you can also change the shims and alter its location quicker this way, from above. Also you'd be able to change both.
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