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Old 02-18-2007, 01:53 AM   #17476
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well i would just like everything that hasnt been mentioend on the spec list on schumachers website plz

thanks
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Old 02-18-2007, 07:03 AM   #17477
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can anybody give me more info on the mi3 as i might be lookin to get one wen it comes out im hopin it will be easier to set up than the mi2 ec as i struggled to get it setup proper

cheers
Try these two pages for more info.

Schumacher Mi3 Info

Pitspace Mi3 FAQs
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Old 02-18-2007, 07:22 AM   #17478
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Well last night my EC was working better than it has in a few weeks. This week I really started making changes and stumbles onto something. After the 1st round and my car still not turning in like I wanted I decided to lenghten ther rear wheelbase. I went to mid long for the 2nd round and the car was faster overall and was smooth to drive. For tht eh 3rd round I went to the long setup in the rear arms and the car went oven faster and ran my faster lap on this layout ever and my overall average times where better.

I was thinking of next time I run to maybe shorten the rear arms back to mid short and then move the rear hubs back all the way so that I loose just a tick of rear toe in but still get a longer car. Car was really easy to drive.

I have the front shocks all the way out on the tower and in the rear all the way in on the tower with white Schumacher springs.

Not sure why it got better but as it was set longer it was better. I'm not going to complain thats for sure.
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Old 02-18-2007, 08:45 AM   #17479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyd
Well last night my EC was working better than it has in a few weeks. This week I really started making changes and stumbles onto something. After the 1st round and my car still not turning in like I wanted I decided to lenghten ther rear wheelbase. I went to mid long for the 2nd round and the car was faster overall and was smooth to drive. For tht eh 3rd round I went to the long setup in the rear arms and the car went oven faster and ran my faster lap on this layout ever and my overall average times where better.

I was thinking of next time I run to maybe shorten the rear arms back to mid short and then move the rear hubs back all the way so that I loose just a tick of rear toe in but still get a longer car. Car was really easy to drive.

I have the front shocks all the way out on the tower and in the rear all the way in on the tower with white Schumacher springs.

Not sure why it got better but as it was set longer it was better. I'm not going to complain thats for sure.
What surface was this on?

I have tended to run short wheel base at the back (racing outdoors) to help put the weight over the rear wheels to prevent oversteer etc.
Others have mentioned I might be getting the pendulum effect where the rear is to short and the weight can throw the back end out

I thought short wheel base was supposed to help the car turn (under control)?

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Old 02-18-2007, 10:43 AM   #17480
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By running the rear arms forward, you're not getting more rear toe at all. The angle will stay the same. What you get is a narrower rear end. For me, when I move the rear arms forward, the car will rotate more because of the shorter wheelbase but at the same time, there's more weight on the rear so it'll keep the car a little more stable. However, too far forward and you will get a pendulum effect and the rear end will start to swing.
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Old 02-18-2007, 10:44 AM   #17481
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This weekend I had a bad experience with my EC. Just wasn´t able to find the right setup.

We were driving on a, for me, new track, very much grip and lots of tight corners.

My car kept falling over all the time. We had to use Vtec 27 (similar to CS 27) rubber tires, free inserts and standard wheels.

The car was not rolling at all, even when I removed all the shims (carbon and alu) below the arms.

I was using blue springs in front, white in the back, 2 hole pistons, 45 wt oil front 35 back, black bars front/rear, carpet tower briges, front/rear. Hotbodies Mazda body

1mm droop front, 3 rear.

The car was so stuck it wouldn´t roll at all. It was bumping and bouncing in the tight corners - or fell over.

Whatever I tried was wrong.

Maybe someone could give me a hint why this could happen and what I should have done to avoid it.

Thanks
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Old 02-18-2007, 11:02 AM   #17482
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joamu
This weekend I had a bad experience with my EC. Just wasn´t able to find the right setup.

We were driving on a, for me, new track, very much grip and lots of tight corners.

My car kept falling over all the time. We had to use Vtec 27 (similar to CS 27) rubber tires, free inserts and standard wheels.

The car was not rolling at all, even when I removed all the shims (carbon and alu) below the arms.

I was using blue springs in front, white in the back, 2 hole pistons, 45 wt oil front 35 back, black bars front/rear, carpet tower briges, front/rear. Hotbodies Mazda body

1mm droop front, 3 rear.

The car was so stuck it wouldn´t roll at all. It was bumping and bouncing in the tight corners - or fell over.

Whatever I tried was wrong.

Maybe someone could give me a hint why this could happen and what I should have done to avoid it.

Thanks
By falling over do you mean traction rolling? Usually traction rolling is a product of too much roll and transferring too much weight to the outside. However, if you want to get more roll, the first thing you need to do is get the black swaybars off the car. Also, lowering the pivot blocks to the chassis is going to give massive traction and probably make the car traction roll even more. I'd put the 2mm risers back in the front and put the riser + 1mm shims under the rear.
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Old 02-18-2007, 11:17 AM   #17483
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I always thought removing the spacers is also reducing the grip! I think i was wrong here............
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Old 02-18-2007, 02:01 PM   #17484
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Removing the spacers under the pivot blocks will lower the roll center. Lowering the roll center will allow the suspension to roll more and will increase grip.
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Old 02-18-2007, 02:10 PM   #17485
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I'm having a similar problem running rubber on carpet. I get grip roll towards the last heats and finals when the grip has come up. I'm running all risers and 1mm shims under the pivot blocks. Will puttting 2mm under the rear pivot blocks help me?
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Old 02-18-2007, 02:46 PM   #17486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tim fry
I'm having a similar problem running rubber on carpet. I get grip roll towards the last heats and finals when the grip has come up. I'm running all risers and 1mm shims under the pivot blocks. Will puttting 2mm under the rear pivot blocks help me?
Depending on what you running at the start you could try changing some of the following as the grip comes up;

Use a thicker front roll bar
Raise front roll centre
Stiffer front springs
'Paint' super glue onto the sidewalls of the front tyres.

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Old 02-18-2007, 03:16 PM   #17487
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Gluing the sidewalls is the first thing I'd try. I did that running rubbers in Vegas 2 years ago and it fixed it right away. Just glue the sidewall up to where it gets to the contact patch.
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Old 02-18-2007, 04:43 PM   #17488
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Skiddins I was running on indoor asphalt.

I noticed when I ran the shorter rear wheelbase it would rotate better but in return with the more weight on the rear wheels made it push more getting into the corners. At least thats what it feels like on the track for me.

Jon Kerr what did you seem to notice if you ran your front a arms in a more forward postion? To be honest I just have not messed with that.
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:05 AM   #17489
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Congrats to Tim from www.fasttrackshobbies.com for a great performance at the Snowbird Nationals. Schumacher USA was the only race team to not enter team drivers into the rubber classes and we still had a car on the podium...You Da'Man Tim!!!!!

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Old 02-19-2007, 12:05 PM   #17490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyd
Skiddins I was running on indoor asphalt.

I noticed when I ran the shorter rear wheelbase it would rotate better but in return with the more weight on the rear wheels made it push more getting into the corners. At least thats what it feels like on the track for me.

Jon Kerr what did you seem to notice if you ran your front a arms in a more forward postion? To be honest I just have not messed with that.
Moving the front arms is always kind of a balancing act. Move them back to shorten the wheel base always seems give a more aggressive feeling on entry. But too far back and the car would just continue to turn coming out of the corners. It wouldn't square up at all and I'd have to counter steer coming out of the corner because there would be so much weight forward, it couldn't transfer it back quick enough. I like having the front arms at med/long position and the rear arms med/short. That always seems to be where I end up with the best balance. You may also want to try the longer pivot blocks on the front of the car. (I don't know what the part number was off the top of my head.) They're a slightly longer block you use for the forward, front pivot block. They'll give you forward arm sweep. I really liked that on the car a lot. It gave a good amount more usable steering through out the corner.
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