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Old 01-03-2007, 09:52 PM   #16891
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Originally Posted by Alex Lopez
YES!!!! You?
Oh yeah. I'll be there. See ya then.
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Old 01-03-2007, 10:06 PM   #16892
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Originally Posted by aus jd 2703
if we were to make our own sway bars what material is it? steel stainless or aluminium? im thinking steel cause it powder coated and stainless work hardens (sorry my dad is a sheet metal worker by trade so u pick these things up) just wouldnt mind trying a variety of bars.

also what and how did you guys dye your diff pulleys? and can i dye my rw spurs?
cheers
I'm pretty sure the sway bars are steel. Not 100% sure on that though. If you're going to make your own bars, be sure make them identical on both sides or it could tweak the car.

As far as the dyed pulleys, I used black Rit Dye. But in hind sight, I wouldn't do it again. You have to warm up the dye and put the plastic parts in it for it to take. I may have gotten them too hot while dying them, (I don't think I got it any hotter than you're supposed to ) but it seemed to warp the pulley a little. That diff always felt like it had a high spot. The same with any RW spur gears I did. Someone else may have a better way of doing it though.
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Old 01-04-2007, 04:34 AM   #16893
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I wouldn't bother with the dye, without it it makes it easier to see any crud that is caught in the teeth etc, if it's black you could have something caught in it and not know.

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Old 01-04-2007, 05:34 AM   #16894
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This question is for the people who run the MI2EC Carpet Spec. Are you running the kit chassis and top deck or are you using a BMI or other chassis?

Thanks,
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Old 01-04-2007, 06:53 AM   #16895
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aus jd 2703
if we were to make our own sway bars what material is it? steel stainless or aluminium?
cheers
I made a set of sway bars I used piano wire from the local hobby shop.
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Old 01-04-2007, 07:31 AM   #16896
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Originally Posted by AdrianM
Yup, run the stock kit setup. I would remove the diff risers and the plates between the motor/layshaft mounts though.

The bigger challenge for you will be to learn not to pull the trigger as hard and use full throttle less often. I learned this little trick to help get started in Mod.

Say the world "One" The amount of time it takes you to say this word is how long it should take you to go from neutral to full throttle with a mod motor. If you cannot complete saying the word "One" in the time it take your car to get from one corner to the next then you should not use full throttle there.

There are of course exceptions but this little mental aid helps to force you to apply throttle smoothly when you get started.

Another tip is to reduce you brake endpoint (brakes are your friend ) so full brake slows the car but does not get it out of shape.

Be sure to lift off the thorttle and brake earlier then your are used to. Then work you way up to later lifting and harder braking.

that helps alot thanks
is there any other tips for stock users?
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Old 01-04-2007, 09:36 AM   #16897
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRASH
This question is for the people who run the MI2EC Carpet Spec. Are you running the kit chassis and top deck or are you using a BMI or other chassis?

Thanks,
I use the stock 2.5mm up and down....and credit to the "TUBE" design (instead of the super low CG Xray style).....even with 2.5mm carbon, the chassis is STIFF enough for carpet.

Unless you have the BMI one for cheap or even free...I think the stock one are more then stiff enough for foam carpet. BTW....I was referring to carpet FOAM spec. If you are talking about rubber carpet, you can try the stock 2mm up and down, but I think @ IIC, mini-dub used the 2.5mm lower with 2mm upper and won the 19T race.
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Old 01-04-2007, 11:22 AM   #16898
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Anyone running the new car at the Novak?
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Old 01-04-2007, 11:33 AM   #16899
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hey guys,
i have just built the EC and it looks great but i have a quick question do the hinge pins that go through the wishbones to the toe in blocks front and rear sit parallel to the chassis, or do they slope down toward the chassis at the front of the pins?

Cheers
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Old 01-04-2007, 12:10 PM   #16900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LEE UK
hey guys,
i have just built the EC and it looks great but i have a quick question do the hinge pins that go through the wishbones to the toe in blocks front and rear sit parallel to the chassis, or do they slope down toward the chassis at the front of the pins?

Cheers
The thickness of the purple alum pivot block should all have the same thickness......if you are not using different thickness shim underneath the pivot blocks, they should all be parallel front to rear.
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Old 01-04-2007, 12:22 PM   #16901
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this is what i thought but the blocks are marked L and R and the only way you can get the two R`s nd L`s on the right side is to have the front of the pin sloping towards the chassis which i know from experience of other cars is wrong

i also have to have the front blocks with the R and L facing upwards
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Old 01-04-2007, 01:09 PM   #16902
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LEE UK
this is what i thought but the blocks are marked L and R and the only way you can get the two R`s nd L`s on the right side is to have the front of the pin sloping towards the chassis which i know from experience of other cars is wrong

i also have to have the front blocks with the R and L facing upwards
Because the blocks are used on both sides and front and rear ignore the markings, I believe they are a throwback to previous cars.

Look at the exploded diagram in the manual, the rounded edge always faces out, now make sure that the hole for the pivot pin is towards to top of the pivot block. Does this make sense so far.
It should be the same all the way around the car, remember, hole to the top.

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Old 01-04-2007, 01:18 PM   #16903
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McSmooth
Anyone running the new car at the Novak?
No they are running EC's
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Old 01-04-2007, 01:43 PM   #16904
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Default Pivot block pictures

Hope these help a little on the pivot block question, just remember that the letters face down to the chassis.
Attached Thumbnails
Schumacher Corner-front.jpg   Schumacher Corner-rear.jpg  
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Old 01-04-2007, 10:43 PM   #16905
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