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Old 09-18-2006, 11:45 AM   #16051
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Is it time for Vegas yet???
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Old 09-18-2006, 11:54 AM   #16052
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Hello my car is excellent but i push coming in to a corner what can i do i would not like to change castor i like the coming out of the 6 degrees



Front end:
RIDE HEIGHT: 5mm
ANTI-ROLL BAR: none
CASTOR: 6º
KICK UP: none
ANTI DIVE: none
TOE: 0º
ROLL CENTER: riser plate + 1
CAMBER: -1.5º
BELLCRANK: center hole + 3mm shims under ballstud
STEERING KNUCKLE: front hole
LOWER SHOCK LOCATION: outer hole
UPPER SHOCK LOCATION: inner hole
CENTER TRACK ROD LENGTH: stock
INNER CAMBER LINK LOCATION: lower hole
NOTES: no riser plate under bulkheads. No wheel spacer on outside of hex.

Front shocks:
OIL: 35 wt.
SPRING: white
PISTON: stock
LENGTH: 61mm
DROOP: 1.5mm uptravel

Rear end:
RIDE HEIGHT: 5mm
ANTI/PRO SQUAT: none
ANTI ROLL BAR: none
TOE IN: 3º
ROLL CENTER: riser plate + 1mm
CAMBER: -1.5mm
WHEELBASE: med/short
REAR HUB LOCATION: center
OUTER CAMBER LINK LOCATION: inner hole
OUTER CAMBER LINK SHIMS: none
INNER CAMBER LINK LOCATION: lower hole
LOWER SHOCK LOCATION: 2nd hole in from outside
UPPER SHOCK LOCATION: 3rd hole in from outside
NOTES: no riser plate under bulkhead. No white plastic wheel spacer on outside of hex

REAR SHOCKS:
OIL: Schumacher 35wt
SPRING: Schumacher white
PISTON: stock
LENGTH: 62.5mm
DROOP: 2.5mm uptravel

Other:
BODY: type m
CHASSIS: stock 2mm
TOPDECK: stock 2mm
FRONT DIFF: spool
ESC: hara
CELLS: smc IB3800
MOTOR: Putanm stock
TIRES: RP30GL
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Old 09-18-2006, 11:55 AM   #16053
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oo just thought of something mabe stiffer springs in the rear
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Old 09-18-2006, 12:35 PM   #16054
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First thing I'd do looking at that setup is take the front shock tower and drill a new hole 2mm above the high hole. You having the riser taken out and having it in the lower hole is raising your front roll center a lot and making it really stiff. Raising that camber link up will give the front end much more turn in.

Also I'd suggest adding the white wheel washers to the rear of the car and standing the front shocks up one hole. All of this should give the car more turn in. Also going to 2º of rear toe from the 3º you have will free up the back end all the way around the corner.
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Old 09-18-2006, 12:50 PM   #16055
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Default Hey Guys,

Again it´s me from Austria.

I have to say that we were racing the HPI European Finals last weekend. After havíng changed from my old Yokomo BD to the EC recently i have to admit i really had problems with the back of the car breaking out in a fast chicane.

I was using the standard setup included, with the slight change of a thicker Front sway bar (black) and blue springs in the front and the front carpet tower (third hole from outside). No bars under the diffs.

Riser + 1 in front
Riser + 1,5 in the back.

Apart from that the car felt very responsive, great turning in.

But whatever I did I still could not stop the car from breaking out in the fast chicane. Anyone of any help?

Thanks in advance
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Old 09-18-2006, 12:57 PM   #16056
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joamu - on foams, we would switch the risers so that the front is a bit higher than the rear. that seems rare, though, for rubber tire racing.
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Old 09-18-2006, 01:03 PM   #16057
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Teemu had riser+1 in front and riser+2 in the back, what would you suggest?
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Old 09-18-2006, 01:12 PM   #16058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joamu
Again it´s me from Austria.

I have to say that we were racing the HPI European Finals last weekend. After havíng changed from my old Yokomo BD to the EC recently i have to admit i really had problems with the back of the car breaking out in a fast chicane.

I was using the standard setup included, with the slight change of a thicker Front sway bar (black) and blue springs in the front and the front carpet tower (third hole from outside). No bars under the diffs.

Riser + 1 in front
Riser + 1,5 in the back.

Apart from that the car felt very responsive, great turning in.

But whatever I did I still could not stop the car from breaking out in the fast chicane. Anyone of any help?

Thanks in advance
How much droop are you running? If the car is too soft and allowed to roll too much, it can make the rear want to flit and "diff out" causing the back to break free.
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Old 09-18-2006, 01:17 PM   #16059
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5 mm front, car without wheels and measured to bottom of arm
3 mm back,

carpet tower bridge in front, upper hole
standard brigde in the rear, upper hole

35 wt oil all round
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Old 09-18-2006, 01:45 PM   #16060
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wats the eseast way to drill the hole 2 mm up on the front camber link
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Old 09-18-2006, 01:46 PM   #16061
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joamu
5 mm front, car without wheels and measured to bottom of arm
3 mm back,

carpet tower bridge in front, upper hole
standard brigde in the rear, upper hole

35 wt oil all round
Unfortunately, measuring with a droop gauge like that doesn't really tell me anything. I've never really liked measuring droop that way because changing ride height will change your droop setting, even if you leave it the same on that gauge. Put the wheels on and set the car on a flat board. Take the ride height, then lift the car by the notch in the center of the shock tower until the tires just barley touch. Then measure the ride height again in the same place. The difference is your "true droop" or you'll hear us say down travel. The reason I'd prefer to measure it like this is it's consistent. If you have the car at 4mm ride height and measure the droop using the droop gauge, Then you raise the ride height up to 5mm, you've now lost a full 1mm of droop. But your droop gauge, not taking ride height into account, hasn't changed.

I usually like around 2mm front droop and 3mm rear droop.
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Old 09-18-2006, 01:48 PM   #16062
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teammidget lilB
wats the eseast way to drill the hole 2 mm up on the front camber link
A really good file and slot it up. I used a dremel when I did mine at the Reedy race since I didn't have a file and it was a pain. I ruined 2 towers before I got it right.
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Old 09-18-2006, 01:56 PM   #16063
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i will consider that when I do it next time, thanks anyway
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Old 09-18-2006, 02:21 PM   #16064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PW
Weylin will be running the Mi2EC as will all of Team Schumacher. Maybe one of these guys talking about an Mi3 could hook me up with one
LOL yeah me too me too!!!
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Old 09-18-2006, 03:42 PM   #16065
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
First thing I'd do looking at that setup is take the front shock tower and drill a new hole 2mm above the high hole. You having the riser taken out and having it in the lower hole is raising your front roll center a lot and making it really stiff. Raising that camber link up will give the front end much more turn in.

Also I'd suggest adding the white wheel washers to the rear of the car and standing the front shocks up one hole. All of this should give the car more turn in. Also going to 2º of rear toe from the 3º you have will free up the back end all the way around the corner.
thanx just did all that
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