LINK VS T-BAR =
 

I know that this question is always on top.

But can you tell me the biggest diffrences betwen those cars?
I've decided to buy Xray platform.

I'll start in my next E12 nationals on the 16 January. My distributor tell me that it will be just to 10 January in Poland.

I don't have any car.
Now I can't decide what will be better.
Just buy T-bar and have enough time for preparing? Or wait for Link?
I'll start in this seson only with NiMH.

Our Polish Champion has Xray XII T-bar & He won't buy link car and he still will be racing with T-bar during this seson... But in my opinion he can win with any car:)
Some drivers told me that link is better, some that link. Please help me and tell what are the biggest differences in driving.

Thank you for answer!
MP

ps. I'm strongly convinced to Xray so don't try tell me about other cars;)

My vote goes to the link car without hesitation. Empirically and theoretically, i see only advantages over Tbars.

With Lipo's, link is the only way to go.

+1

T plates break and link cars does not, yet.

From a driving "feel" T plate provides a progressive suspension feel. Link is a linear suspension feel. However, plate cars have the dis advantage of "fiber rip" in the plates. The feel of the car will change as the glass plate fibers break during use and in a crash. Link stays the same.

Many old old school guys like plate cars...I've been racing 12th scale for 15 years and prefer link cars. Had several AE, Corally, Yokomo plate cars, My first link car, a CRC knife V1, have never gone back. Now with lipo..link is the only way to go.

Have fun racing:nod:

changes in rules and technology have sadly made the decision for you. have to go link these days. tons of car bar cars out there for 1/2 price b/c as of this date...there is no 'legal' battery option any more. another great move in the US courtesy of 'MEOW'

R

Wouldn't link a more consistent choice anyways? I thought that the T-Bar tend to kinda tweak over a period of time if it isn't replaced with a fresh one.

They can but it's not a big deal unless you're a rookie knocking the walls down.

I love T-bar cars but lipo has, for the moment at least, killed them.

Wait a few -- the saddle lipos are awaiting "meow" approval--
Speedzone says -- nxt week avail--approval or not--3.7v 1s 30c 4800 saddle lipo--love it.

Not so fast there........... here's my post in the 1/12 scale thread just yesterday:

Happy to report that my lipo/t-bar conversion worked very well. Better than expected actually. Made some battery locators that riase the pack so that it goes over the t-bar and raised the shock front and rear to keep the angle.

Below are some pics of the battery locators that I made so those that want to do the same, can. Started with aluminum t-track and machined the recess for the pack and drilled and taped mounting holes. Last modification may be something to use an o-ring instead of tape. No need for a saddle pack any more!

http://www.fototime.com/A5F047615A8BD94/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/7B03795AAA0ABD1/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/7676AF9358F5BB5/standard.jpg

I'm trying to figure out a way to make some of these that would be affordable but it really is that not hard to come up with something on your own. Pretty simple concept.

I am a die hard t-bar guy. I've run every link car out there except the new 12R5.1 and the new Xray and have always found that a t-bar suits my agressive driving style better.:D

1) OK it's pretty well homemade conversion.
But what with centre of gravity?
I think that it is not good balanced.

2) Do you you voltage booster? or seperate life receiver pack?
I don't know how booster is connected to all electronics - can you explain me that? Is it connected to Lipo? I really don't know!

3) I gonna wait to the 8th January - if it won't come to Poland (link) I'll buy T-bar, because of my Nationals on the 16 J.

MP

Center of gravity should be about the same as Nimh as the lipo pack is approx. 100g lighter in weight and the additional weight of the battery locators is on the chassis as low as it can get. The car handles very well in this configuration.

Note that for carpet racing the stock 2mm chassis that comes with the t-bar version is really not competitive. The amount of flex is ridiculous.

I never tried the 2,5mm chassis, but I got myself another car and improved instantly.

Which brand of car are you refering to? Also, you are not taking in to consideration the amount of traction that any given track has. There are a lot of carpet tracks that lack good bite that would benifit from a little chassis flex, t-bar or link. And isn't that why there's a bunch of different tire compounds available? Something to suit different cars and driving styles.

Both styles of cars are/can be competitive in the right hands. Everyone is entitled to an opinion and mine happens to prefer a t-bar.