Sakura Zero - New Touring Car!
#1322
Tech Master
A lot of spur gears will fit the holder. Any reason you want the tamiya? Tamiya uses a metric pitch that can make pinions hard to come by where I live. Most of the guys at our track converted to 64 pitch gears. I think my current spur was from Robinson.
#1323
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
There are parts that are interchangeable between the 2, but I personally would not swap because of parts quality unless you are going to Xray.
#1324
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
Perhaps it is not the car that is at fault with the breaking of the c-hubs and other parts.
I have been driving both (TRF416X Lipo and Sakura Zero) last year and didn't break a c-hub or suspension arm on both cars.
Pehaps it is the layout of the tracks you guys running??
All i hear form people who are breaking parts is that they drive indoor on tight twisty tracks with unforgiving track barriers
I have been driving both cars indoor as well and the only time i broke one of the plastic parts is with temps below 10 celcius and me driving true a corner at full lock and then some one hit me ghost driving.
That is it on the Sakura.
I melted a geardiff on the Tamiya but that was due to a stuck bearing.
This was in a complete season of races.
Mostly outdoor and some indoor.
It is not the material that is at fault but a combination or track layout(barriers),driver and material.
I am not the best driver there is but even i manage to keep the car together a whole season without breaking much parts.
I ran the Sakura in stock boosted 13.5 class and the Tamiya in Mod or stock boosted classes.
Yes there are better parts but without breaking the hubs or steering blocks you knacker the axles and those cost even more then some of the plastic parts
regards Roy
I have been driving both (TRF416X Lipo and Sakura Zero) last year and didn't break a c-hub or suspension arm on both cars.
Pehaps it is the layout of the tracks you guys running??
All i hear form people who are breaking parts is that they drive indoor on tight twisty tracks with unforgiving track barriers
I have been driving both cars indoor as well and the only time i broke one of the plastic parts is with temps below 10 celcius and me driving true a corner at full lock and then some one hit me ghost driving.
That is it on the Sakura.
I melted a geardiff on the Tamiya but that was due to a stuck bearing.
This was in a complete season of races.
Mostly outdoor and some indoor.
It is not the material that is at fault but a combination or track layout(barriers),driver and material.
I am not the best driver there is but even i manage to keep the car together a whole season without breaking much parts.
I ran the Sakura in stock boosted 13.5 class and the Tamiya in Mod or stock boosted classes.
Yes there are better parts but without breaking the hubs or steering blocks you knacker the axles and those cost even more then some of the plastic parts
regards Roy
#1325
Tech Champion
iTrader: (165)
I drive indoors on tight tracks also with unforgiving boards and in over two years haven't broken a thing. That is until last Sunday when on my third warmup lap during open practice with my Zero S somebody walked onto the end of the main straight while I was blasting down the straight at full tilt. I hit his boot and broke the front suspension arm, C-hub, body post, sway bar hardware link and ripped the body. I was pretty upset as my day was over as I didn't have any spares on hand.
#1326
Tech Initiate
Just a point to this. A friend at the track was running a Tamiya 417x. He has gone through Tamiya c-hubs like mad. I have never broken a Sakura one.
There are parts that are interchangeable between the 2, but I personally would not swap because of parts quality unless you are going to Xray.
There are parts that are interchangeable between the 2, but I personally would not swap because of parts quality unless you are going to Xray.
#1327
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
What the hell was he doing on the track when there was practice??
Or was he trying to get rid of the competition??
regards Roy
Or was he trying to get rid of the competition??
regards Roy
I drive indoors on tight tracks also with unforgiving boards and in over two years haven't broken a thing. That is until last Sunday when on my third warmup lap during open practice with my Zero S somebody walked onto the end of the main straight while I was blasting down the straight at full tilt. I hit his boot and broke the front suspension arm, C-hub, body post, sway bar hardware link and ripped the body. I was pretty upset as my day was over as I didn't have any spares on hand.
#1331
Tech Initiate
a similar thing happened to me. I set my car on the track in the wrong spot one time(just wasnt thinking). a 1/12th scale ran right into my car and broke his front wheel, bent a screw and paint flakes went everywhere. He said he didnt care but I felt so bad I walked into the shop and bought him a new pair of tires. couldnt help it, I have to be a nice guy.
#1332
Parts don't break on their own. They need help. If you never hit anything I doubt you'll ever break anything.
I definitely don't blame the 3Racing parts for breaking, I'm totally to blame for breaking all of them. I definitely am not very gentle with the car and I'm not the best driver. I don't think I've seen any quality problems with any of the cars or parts I've bought. Personally, even if the parts are lesser quality, the price break still makes it worthwhile to me. Everything related to the Zero's is pretty much 50% the price of the competition -- original kit, individual parts, everything. Hanging on the wall at the home track -- 2 Zero steering knuckles are the same price as a 1 Xray steering knuckle. If they last half as long you are still breaking even. Are Xray materials and tolerances better? Probably. Twice as good? I doubt it.
I definitely don't blame the 3Racing parts for breaking, I'm totally to blame for breaking all of them. I definitely am not very gentle with the car and I'm not the best driver. I don't think I've seen any quality problems with any of the cars or parts I've bought. Personally, even if the parts are lesser quality, the price break still makes it worthwhile to me. Everything related to the Zero's is pretty much 50% the price of the competition -- original kit, individual parts, everything. Hanging on the wall at the home track -- 2 Zero steering knuckles are the same price as a 1 Xray steering knuckle. If they last half as long you are still breaking even. Are Xray materials and tolerances better? Probably. Twice as good? I doubt it.
#1333
Tech Master
Parts don't break on their own. They need help. If you never hit anything I doubt you'll ever break anything.
I definitely don't blame the 3Racing parts for breaking, I'm totally to blame for breaking all of them. I definitely am not very gentle with the car and I'm not the best driver. I don't think I've seen any quality problems with any of the cars or parts I've bought. Personally, even if the parts are lesser quality, the price break still makes it worthwhile to me. Everything related to the Zero's is pretty much 50% the price of the competition -- original kit, individual parts, everything. Hanging on the wall at the home track -- 2 Zero steering knuckles are the same price as a 1 Xray steering knuckle. If they last half as long you are still breaking even. Are Xray materials and tolerances better? Probably. Twice as good? I doubt it.
I definitely don't blame the 3Racing parts for breaking, I'm totally to blame for breaking all of them. I definitely am not very gentle with the car and I'm not the best driver. I don't think I've seen any quality problems with any of the cars or parts I've bought. Personally, even if the parts are lesser quality, the price break still makes it worthwhile to me. Everything related to the Zero's is pretty much 50% the price of the competition -- original kit, individual parts, everything. Hanging on the wall at the home track -- 2 Zero steering knuckles are the same price as a 1 Xray steering knuckle. If they last half as long you are still breaking even. Are Xray materials and tolerances better? Probably. Twice as good? I doubt it.
#1334
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
Perhaps it is not the car that is at fault with the breaking of the c-hubs and other parts.
I have been driving both (TRF416X Lipo and Sakura Zero) last year and didn't break a c-hub or suspension arm on both cars.
Pehaps it is the layout of the tracks you guys running??
All i hear form people who are breaking parts is that they drive indoor on tight twisty tracks with unforgiving track barriers
I have been driving both cars indoor as well and the only time i broke one of the plastic parts is with temps below 10 celcius and me driving true a corner at full lock and then some one hit me ghost driving.
That is it on the Sakura.
I melted a geardiff on the Tamiya but that was due to a stuck bearing.
This was in a complete season of races.
Mostly outdoor and some indoor.
It is not the material that is at fault but a combination or track layout(barriers),driver and material.
I am not the best driver there is but even i manage to keep the car together a whole season without breaking much parts.
I ran the Sakura in stock boosted 13.5 class and the Tamiya in Mod or stock boosted classes.
Yes there are better parts but without breaking the hubs or steering blocks you knacker the axles and those cost even more then some of the plastic parts
regards Roy
I have been driving both (TRF416X Lipo and Sakura Zero) last year and didn't break a c-hub or suspension arm on both cars.
Pehaps it is the layout of the tracks you guys running??
All i hear form people who are breaking parts is that they drive indoor on tight twisty tracks with unforgiving track barriers
I have been driving both cars indoor as well and the only time i broke one of the plastic parts is with temps below 10 celcius and me driving true a corner at full lock and then some one hit me ghost driving.
That is it on the Sakura.
I melted a geardiff on the Tamiya but that was due to a stuck bearing.
This was in a complete season of races.
Mostly outdoor and some indoor.
It is not the material that is at fault but a combination or track layout(barriers),driver and material.
I am not the best driver there is but even i manage to keep the car together a whole season without breaking much parts.
I ran the Sakura in stock boosted 13.5 class and the Tamiya in Mod or stock boosted classes.
Yes there are better parts but without breaking the hubs or steering blocks you knacker the axles and those cost even more then some of the plastic parts
regards Roy
I drive indoors on tight tracks also with unforgiving boards and in over two years haven't broken a thing. That is until last Sunday when on my third warmup lap during open practice with my Zero S somebody walked onto the end of the main straight while I was blasting down the straight at full tilt. I hit his boot and broke the front suspension arm, C-hub, body post, sway bar hardware link and ripped the body. I was pretty upset as my day was over as I didn't have any spares on hand.
Parts don't break on their own. They need help. If you never hit anything I doubt you'll ever break anything.
I definitely don't blame the 3Racing parts for breaking, I'm totally to blame for breaking all of them. I definitely am not very gentle with the car and I'm not the best driver. I don't think I've seen any quality problems with any of the cars or parts I've bought. Personally, even if the parts are lesser quality, the price break still makes it worthwhile to me. Everything related to the Zero's is pretty much 50% the price of the competition -- original kit, individual parts, everything. Hanging on the wall at the home track -- 2 Zero steering knuckles are the same price as a 1 Xray steering knuckle. If they last half as long you are still breaking even. Are Xray materials and tolerances better? Probably. Twice as good? I doubt it.
I definitely don't blame the 3Racing parts for breaking, I'm totally to blame for breaking all of them. I definitely am not very gentle with the car and I'm not the best driver. I don't think I've seen any quality problems with any of the cars or parts I've bought. Personally, even if the parts are lesser quality, the price break still makes it worthwhile to me. Everything related to the Zero's is pretty much 50% the price of the competition -- original kit, individual parts, everything. Hanging on the wall at the home track -- 2 Zero steering knuckles are the same price as a 1 Xray steering knuckle. If they last half as long you are still breaking even. Are Xray materials and tolerances better? Probably. Twice as good? I doubt it.