Dan Hamann

iTrader: (27)

The fortunes continue..

PROMODVETTE

iTrader: (70)

Paul, how long is the spacer on the long shock mod for the 1/12 car?

jlfx car audio

iTrader: (37)

Think I'm going to convert my 2012 with stock chassis /top deck for Usgt to a mod car so Matt can practice up and race at the hudy challenge and the roar nats .
He has high hopes and super quick reflexes . so what the hell I'm going to help him out .
Any suggestions For this chassis to work as good as possible .
I have a 1s hobby wing ESC and a reedy sonic 5.5 in it .
Any drag brake info or boost info to smooth out the power (I know thses r not Ur normal equipment ) but some vague details would help . im excited to see him run it

jlfx car audio

iTrader: (37)

Double post .. Lol

Huskerfan1212

Paul . Thanks for the small changes you recommended. I got my race time down to a 33 lap run with 5.9 off of 34 run. That two laps better. It a tad faster but much more drivable. Next question . I'm running 3000 in rear diff and 80,000 up front. I know all the talk is about a mill up front but I can not seem to drive a locked front end. Will the mill up front be much like a locked front. If so any driving tips on how to drive a locked front. And if in comfortable with the 80,000 an I really loosing anything by just keeping it. Racing was a plastic top 3 after 5 min was separated by 1.9 sec. That's what I was looking for is to be there if a board had happened to seank up on someone.

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

I recently purchased LG2 from Kimiko-Yano (Japan) and I have a few questions about its usage.

Under what weather conditions does LG2 work at its best? Right now, I'm currently running outside with temperatures hovering around 10-15 deg C.
Is this compound effective when used in room temperature or higher settings?

The reason why I ask, is the compound seemed to have a high viscosity and didn't absorb into foam. When applying the LG2, I noticed the traction compound settled on top of the tire with little to no absorption. I did wait for 40 minutes for the rears and 20 minutes for the fronts, and it seemed like the fronts absorbed faster than the rears.... strange.


And I must be honest, when applying the LG2, the bingo dabber applicator doesn't work on applying the traction compound evenly.

Regardless of the compound issues, the products you're offering are top notch, especially your G12 tires. They're making my 1/12 ride rip around the track with ease.

Cheers,

Edward

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

I managed to find your instructions on LG2 a few posts back. The Kimiko-Yano LG2 didn't offer any instructions with the bottle.

Now, I know.

Paul L

Sorry for my delay, I was out of town for a bit. Im not super sure what you are talking about. a short standoff that i have used to make the shock longer?


Cool! I would start him between 10 and 15% for drag brake. I would also start him with no boost and see how fast it is, then you could think about going up 5% boost and turbo at a time until its right for him.
See ya!!

Hi, Great! Glad that that stuff worked well. The 1 mil will not be like a locked diff, it will still have a good amount of diff action, just thicker than what you have. It is just something that you will have to try and see if you like it. The thing that you are giving up by using 80K is forward drive. the 1 mil should accelerate faster than 80K.

Good luck!

Hi Edward. Thanks for the support. Glad that you found the info that you needed! The LG2 seems to work best for me when it is applied lightly then let air dry. Eventually i will phase all my additives in to the LGC applicator bottle. Good luck!!

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

Paul,
I think PROMODVETTE is referring to Alex's car. It looked to me from his facebook page that Alex is using a standoff from the front shock mount at the end of his shock to lengthen it. Nth.

AWD

PROMODVETTE

iTrader: (70)

Yes, is it the 13mm one?

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

I don't know for sure. I just know its long enough to get the proper droop with the shock mount turned forward. Sorry I'm not more help. I guess this is why I don't have an ask AWD thread!

jlfx car audio

iTrader: (37)

Thanks Paul for that info on ESC .
I think we figured out his speed stuff for now but I will say that the drag breaks at 15% will bring car to a stop in 10 feet on the strait .
When u drive do u never let off trigger in the corners or what?
Also cau u recomend a spring/oil setup ?
I have 2.5 f/r with 400oil front and 350 rear and does pretty good but pushed upon entry then does good

PROMODVETTE

iTrader: (70)

Figured it out, was 13mm.

Paul L

[QUOTE=jlfx car audio;12806108]Thanks Paul for that info on ESC .
I think we figured out his speed stuff for now but I will say that the drag breaks at 15% will bring car to a stop in 10 feet on the strait .
When u drive do u never let off trigger in the corners or what?
Also cau u recomend a spring/oil setup ?
I have 2.5 f/r with 400oil front and 350 rear and does pretty good but pushed upon entry then does good[/Quote/]

I definately let off the trigger a lot, it is possible that the value on that speedo is different. I normally use 15% on my hobbywing V2 and normally more than that on my LRP. Also the rotor and gearing will play a huge part in drag brake so it will never be the same unless all equipment is the same. On that car i normally ran 3hole 500F and 350R. but i think with the changing speeds and stuff i would likely use a more recent shock/spring set up. which would be more like 4hole 350 all around with 2.4's all around. dont know if it would work but maybe worth a shot. also with that car i would run 3.5deg rear toe.

Yes it is, sorry.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Just to chip in, make sure the initial brake is set to drag brake, and not a percentage... otherwise you'll end up with full brakes right at the start... this sounds like part of the issue there..