Ask Paul Lemieux, RC America/MOTIV/Gravity RC
02-06-2013, 07:35 PM
#2056
Paul, so happy I got to finally meet you. Thank you for taking time to help fellow racers at the birds. I was curious if you could inform me what is the motive behind drag brake with mod touring. Do you run any? How much? And how much push brake do you use? Thank You Chad
02-06-2013, 07:42 PM
#2057
I ask kevin h. Same question. Do u prefer U.S. style or euro carpet track
02-07-2013, 01:50 AM
#2058
I'll try this setting on the weekend.
What about front end settings in general, are you running 3mm longer upper link or something else? Caster?
A setup sheet from the race would be nice
02-07-2013, 09:51 AM
#2059
First off Ficco has no chance in the cheese puff comp lol. I believe the fist in in one of two places, either back on Ehrlich's mantle or in Sweden somewhere, i get the feeling we will know more soon.
Paul, so happy I got to finally meet you. Thank you for taking time to help fellow racers at the birds. I was curious if you could inform me what is the motive behind drag brake with mod touring. Do you run any? How much? And how much push brake do you use? Thank You Chad
In Mod TC i always use drag brake. I dont like to use push brake very much so i will use more drag brake than most. I just find it easier to be consistent that way. so if you feel that you are good at using push brake their is less reason to use drag brake. It seems like whenever i run really fast i use very little to no push brake, but the car and layout has to be perfect for me to use none. 15% drag brake is where i would start out with just about any speedo.
Thanks!
Do you have some shims between servo and servo mounts, or between links and saver or between servo and servosaver?
I'll try this setting on the weekend.
What about front end settings in general, are you running 3mm longer upper link or something else? Caster?
A setup sheet from the race would be nice
I'll try this setting on the weekend.
What about front end settings in general, are you running 3mm longer upper link or something else? Caster?
A setup sheet from the race would be nice
Yes i used 3mm's of shimm's to make the upper arm longer (less steering/easier to drive). caster was in the middle.
I will do a set up sheet now.
Thanks!
02-07-2013, 10:18 AM
#2060
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for the record, 11 cheese puffs is all i could fit. paul matched my 11 with room to spare. i am hereby withdrawing from the cheese puff rematch, due to stretched mouth corners, and high cholesterol.
02-07-2013, 09:31 PM
#2062
Hey Schreff.
The servo is mounted behind the posts with the ball studs coming out the front of the servo saver. I ended up with 1mm also shimming the ball studs forward more on the servo saver.
Yes i used 3mm's of shimm's to make the upper arm longer (less steering/easier to drive). caster was in the middle.
I will do a set up sheet now.
Thanks!
The servo is mounted behind the posts with the ball studs coming out the front of the servo saver. I ended up with 1mm also shimming the ball studs forward more on the servo saver.
Yes i used 3mm's of shimm's to make the upper arm longer (less steering/easier to drive). caster was in the middle.
I will do a set up sheet now.
Thanks!
02-07-2013, 10:33 PM
#2063
Paul...which do you prefer? Euro Fist or Americian fist? And is size a deciding factor????
02-08-2013, 07:05 AM
#2064
Honestly, it just kinda ended up that way and it leaves me more room for my receiver on the speedo side.
lol
lol
02-09-2013, 09:08 AM
#2065
H
The servo is mounted behind the posts with the ball studs coming out the front of the servo saver. I ended up with 1mm also shimming the ball studs forward more on the servo saver.
Yes i used 3mm's of shimm's to make the upper arm longer (less steering/easier to drive). caster was in the middle.
I will do a set up sheet now.
Thanks!
The servo is mounted behind the posts with the ball studs coming out the front of the servo saver. I ended up with 1mm also shimming the ball studs forward more on the servo saver.
Yes i used 3mm's of shimm's to make the upper arm longer (less steering/easier to drive). caster was in the middle.
I will do a set up sheet now.
Thanks!
Did you have one hole in piston or std 2 holes?
Why to raise the side links?
What are RCA green side springs?
And why to have the shock more angled?
I'm having European Championships race next month and I'm struggling with turn-in.
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...D=72&setup=x12
My setup is that.
The carpet is a bit tricky, not high grip but you really have to drive on power or otherwise the car locks up and the rear end is like with handbrake on.
Very hard to drive on-power/off-power, on every car make on model.
Also, the carpet gets moist from the tire additives and don't get any faster though.
02-09-2013, 09:19 AM
#2066
I can answer this one. RC America sells a spring kit. http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...oducts_id=4145 Comes with a little larger set screw, metal spring mount and 5 pair of springs, Softest to hardest are White, Red, Green, Purple, and Black.
02-09-2013, 12:43 PM
#2067
Hi. this is all for blinky 17.5. for TC i would go with 30-35deg timing and start with a 3.7 overall ratio. for 12th scale i would also go blue rotor with 30deg timing and gear at a 89mm roll out. with a 42mm tire size that would be roughly a 70 spur with a 47 pinion.
Thanks
Thanks
First off let me tell you THANKS! It's great how you make yourself available to all of us. Now my questions:
Why do you recommend the blue rotor instead of the green? I have been reading in the 1/12 thread and was told green is the way to go.
Second, where can you get a 70 spur? I run an X12 and I have to run a 74. 72 are never in stock from precision and I have not seen a 70. Tried a 72 from CRC but diff would not tighten up, and yes I also bought new diff balls since it uses smaller ones. Thanks
02-09-2013, 06:27 PM
#2068
Suspended
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48 pitch vs 64 pitch
My question to is pointed towards understanding the differance between the two and would like to experiment with them both , but I hear 64 pitch is more popular than 48 pitch and if so could you explain your take this subject. ..team trinity p.j
02-09-2013, 09:52 PM
#2069
Paul,
First off let me tell you THANKS! It's great how you make yourself available to all of us. Now my questions:
Why do you recommend the blue rotor instead of the green? I have been reading in the 1/12 thread and was told green is the way to go.
Second, where can you get a 70 spur? I run an X12 and I have to run a 74. 72 are never in stock from precision and I have not seen a 70. Tried a 72 from CRC but diff would not tighten up, and yes I also bought new diff balls since it uses smaller ones. Thanks
First off let me tell you THANKS! It's great how you make yourself available to all of us. Now my questions:
Why do you recommend the blue rotor instead of the green? I have been reading in the 1/12 thread and was told green is the way to go.
Second, where can you get a 70 spur? I run an X12 and I have to run a 74. 72 are never in stock from precision and I have not seen a 70. Tried a 72 from CRC but diff would not tighten up, and yes I also bought new diff balls since it uses smaller ones. Thanks
02-09-2013, 10:41 PM
#2070
I don't recall flanged bearings in the diff assembly. Maybe I'm missing what you are saying. I would love to be able to run the CRC diff but tore up an axel trying to tighten it up. It would not work on my sons 12R5.1 either. I now have 2 new assemblies with ceramic balls that I cannot use, ugh. PM me with any info. Don't want this taking up space on Pauls thread.