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Old 01-16-2012, 05:10 PM   #1456
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Hi Nathan. I always fill the shock, shaft down. then i will place the bladder in the oil and with wrench tip or something push and extend the bladder in to the oil and down in to the body. then i place the plastic cap over the bladder, then i place the aluminum cap around the plastic cap. then while pushing down on the plastic cap and subsequently the bladders rim i will screw on the aluminum cap. sometimes i will turn the aluminum backwards until i feel the threads sit right, then i screw it down in the right direction and bleed the shock upside down from the bottom.
probably sounds more complicated than it really is. But yes, it does seem that the aluminum cap can be hard to get over the bladder sometimes.


hope this helps.
Thanks

Paul
Paul, do you use the method in the manual for setting rebound except for having the shock upside down? Also, do you run the foam inserts in your bladders or not and how does installing or leaving out the foam insert affect handling?

Thanks,
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Old 01-17-2012, 02:33 AM   #1457
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Thanks Paul, much appreciated.

Can you or someone else help me out, I am in the process of cutting out my protoform speed body for the 12th scale and have cut the top line and am worried I was suppose to cut the bottom line,


Can someone confirm which is / was the right line to cut?

Nathan
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Old 01-17-2012, 05:17 AM   #1458
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Paul that advice is worth a million dollars. I pretty much do that in everything plastic and aluminum and boy does it save parts. It might be common knowledge to some but I don't think I've ever read it posted by anyone before, great advice.


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Paul, do you use the method in the manual for setting rebound except for having the shock upside down? Also, do you run the foam inserts in your bladders or not and how does installing or leaving out the foam insert affect handling?

Thanks,
I'm not exactly sure how it tells you to set the rebound in the manual but here is how i do it.

I Fill the shock and put the bladder/cap on as we went over on the last page, That is all i do on the topof the shock.
Once the cap is on the shock has 100% rebound, i will then set the shock upside down for a couple minutes, then (shock still upside down) i remove the bottom cap and slowly push the shaft in to bleed the oil (shock upside down the whole way), once the shaft is pushed all the way in or down i will tighten the bottom cap. If two that i do is not even I will extend the shaft all the way out and do it again, or maybe only half way to match the rebound of the two shocks.

The Foam is their to support the bladder and keep it from flexing or even turning inside out while the piston is traveling at it (especially when the piston takes swift action.) I feel like having the foam will make the piston travel threw more oil do to less flex in the bladder. so basically i feel like my car drives softer and rolls more with no foam.

Thnaks

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Thanks Paul, much appreciated.

Can you or someone else help me out, I am in the process of cutting out my protoform speed body for the 12th scale and have cut the top line and am worried I was suppose to cut the bottom line,


Can someone confirm which is / was the right line to cut?

Nathan
Hi Nathan, i don't have one of those mounted to check right now, sorry.
see what you can do though, slam it if you can! im sure it will still be use able if the cut line is a bit high.

Thanks
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Old 01-17-2012, 11:40 AM   #1459
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Hey Paul,

Question about your G12 1/12th tires what are the offset differences between your rims and Jaco's? Im looking to pick up a few sets to try.
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Old 01-17-2012, 12:27 PM   #1460
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Thanx for the help Paul, going to test tomorrow and see what I ca learn and feel...
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Old 01-17-2012, 04:57 PM   #1461
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Hey Paul,

Question about your G12 1/12th tires what are the offset differences between your rims and Jaco's? Im looking to pick up a few sets to try.
Hi MIke, I think The front is the same (14.5mm from inner bearing surface to outside sidewall of the wheel), but has the option to go much less offset by accepting a non flanged bearing on the inside.
The rear has more offset, i am not sure exactly how much more BC i don't have a Jaco here to measure. but the rear offset is almost exact to a CRC, BSR.
So in the front you will be fine but the rear you will be wider with the G12's and will need to narrow up your rear axle from Jaco's.

Thanks for the support, I really hope you like them.
Paul

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Thanx for the help Paul, going to test tomorrow and see what I ca learn and feel...
Cool
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Old 01-17-2012, 11:43 PM   #1462
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Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
Hi MIke, I think The front is the same (14.5mm from inner bearing surface to outside sidewall of the wheel), but has the option to go much less offset by accepting a non flanged bearing on the inside.
The rear has more offset, i am not sure exactly how much more BC i don't have a Jaco here to measure. but the rear offset is almost exact to a CRC, BSR.
So in the front you will be fine but the rear you will be wider with the G12's and will need to narrow up your rear axle from Jaco's.

Thanks for the support, I really hope you like them.
Paul



Cool
Wow. You are totally my RC hero Paul. Hope the family is doing well. Good luck with Gravity RC!!! It's great to see someone jumping into the 12th scale game. LMK if I can help you in any way!!!
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Old 01-18-2012, 05:19 AM   #1463
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LMK if I can help you in any way!!!
He could use some assistance with grammar and spelling. As you have a knack for that sort of thing, there might be an opportunity for your services.

Is that something you would "con-sitter?"
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Old 01-18-2012, 07:33 AM   #1464
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Wow. You are totally my RC hero Paul. Hope the family is doing well. Good luck with Gravity RC!!! It's great to see someone jumping into the 12th scale game. LMK if I can help you in any way!!!
Hey Ian!. The family is good, hope yours the same!.
I am very fortunate to have lots of friends that will help and support me in this . Im sure i will need your help at some point. Thanks!!

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He could use some assistance with grammar and spelling. As you have a knack for that sort of thing, there might be an opportunity for your services.

Is that something you would "con-sitter?"
LOL, Thanks GK. ill be putting you to work now for sure.
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Old 01-18-2012, 07:38 AM   #1465
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Hi Paul just want to know how you prep your brand new rubber tires? I'm going to a carpet big race that they have a spec tires and it will be control practice, I'm not sure if I will have time to put some runs on it before the actual race.
Spec tires is sweep 32
Thanks
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Old 01-18-2012, 11:41 AM   #1466
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Hi Paul just want to know how you prep your brand new rubber tires? I'm going to a carpet big race that they have a spec tires and it will be control practice, I'm not sure if I will have time to put some runs on it before the actual race.
Spec tires is sweep 32
Thanks
Hi. In my opinion It is important to get at least one run on the tires before qualifying, 2 runs would be best. On high traction it is not as important but for low traction it could be 2 or even 3 tenths faster to have them properly broken in.

Main Reasons: - new tires surface is perfectly sealed and will not accept sauce nearly as well as a broken in tire
- during running the belt becomes more flexible than when new, so a broken in set will have a bigger contact patch.

I will start by cleaning the new tire with motor spray to get the mold release oil off of the surface. Then i will sauce and run. after running once i will clean the tire with sauce on a rag to remove all build up so the sauce can go to work on the tires pure surface, i clean with sauce instead of motor spray the second time not to remove oil from the tire. Now your tire is ready to accept sauce properly, sauce again and run. and you are all set.

Hope this helps.

Thanks
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Old 01-18-2012, 12:01 PM   #1467
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Paul,
What kind of supply of 12 tires are you bringing to Snowbirds? Might want to pick up a couple of sets from you if you have them there for sale.
Thanks,
Mike
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Old 01-18-2012, 12:46 PM   #1468
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Paul,
What kind of supply of 12 tires are you bringing to Snowbirds? Might want to pick up a couple of sets from you if you have them there for sale.
Thanks,
Mike
I will be bringing some of on consignment for the shop. And of course I will be their so we can talk about them a bit . Thanks!
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Old 01-19-2012, 05:24 AM   #1469
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Hi. In my opinion It is important to get at least one run on the tires before qualifying, 2 runs would be best. On high traction it is not as important but for low traction it could be 2 or even 3 tenths faster to have them properly broken in.

Main Reasons: - new tires surface is perfectly sealed and will not accept sauce nearly as well as a broken in tire
- during running the belt becomes more flexible than when new, so a broken in set will have a bigger contact patch.

I will start by cleaning the new tire with motor spray to get the mold release oil off of the surface. Then i will sauce and run. after running once i will clean the tire with sauce on a rag to remove all build up so the sauce can go to work on the tires pure surface, i clean with sauce instead of motor spray the second time not to remove oil from the tire. Now your tire is ready to accept sauce properly, sauce again and run. and you are all set.

Hope this helps.

Thanks
How about using a much more tire sander, does that have the same effect? or you think it's more important to run them?

Nathan
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Old 01-19-2012, 05:33 AM   #1470
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How about using a much more tire sander, does that have the same effect? or you think it's more important to run them?

Nathan
I think that the muchmore tire sander does work very well but if i had the choice for carpet i would just run them in.

Thanks
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