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Old 01-14-2012, 12:09 PM   #1441
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Default G12 Tires

I had the opportunity to run the new G12 tires last weekend. Guys, you have to try them!!! I picked up .2 seconds a lap over parmas in the same shore.

Genius packaging and Great design with the stiff wheel and the ability to swap out inner bearings. I will post some pics later today.

Paul, Good to see you at ProLevelRC for the Hudy race and Good luck with the new venture!
Take care,
Jon
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Old 01-14-2012, 01:20 PM   #1442
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Default G12 Tires

pics as promised... These are fresh out of the tube.
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Old 01-15-2012, 06:55 AM   #1443
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paul

when running blinky do you run 12.3mm rotor or do you run 12.5mm rotor and do you set car up different than mod setup in tc
with The Thunderpower 17.5 I would suggest starting out with the 12.3 Blue rotor, geared around 4.0. 30deg timing. this should be a fairly safe place to start. In the past when i would run stock classes i would not change the set up at all. I think that a good mod set up will work with all different power.

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Its good to see that your products are really taking off, nice job paul !! Your the man...
Thanks!
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Old 01-15-2012, 07:05 AM   #1444
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Originally Posted by burgboyz View Post
I had the opportunity to run the new G12 tires last weekend. Guys, you have to try them!!! I picked up .2 seconds a lap over parmas in the same shore.

Genius packaging and Great design with the stiff wheel and the ability to swap out inner bearings. I will post some pics later today.

Paul, Good to see you at ProLevelRC for the Hudy race and Good luck with the new venture!
Take care,
Jon

Hi Jon, Thanks for coming to the Hudy race.
Also I'm glad that you are liking the tires!, thanks for the feedback.
I did not design the wheel, only selected material, but none the less i feel that it is a good wheel. and Im super glad the rubber is hooking up good for everyone. Thanks. Paul
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Old 01-15-2012, 07:18 AM   #1445
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Originally Posted by burgboyz View Post
I had the opportunity to run the new G12 tires last weekend. Guys, you have to try them!!! I picked up .2 seconds a lap over parmas in the same shore.

Genius packaging and Great design with the stiff wheel and the ability to swap out inner bearings. I will post some pics later today.

Paul, Good to see you at ProLevelRC for the Hudy race and Good luck with the new venture!
Take care,
Jon
What class/motor were you running?

Are the two compounds that were released both natural rubber? Im assuming they are "similar" to Magenta and Pink?
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Old 01-15-2012, 05:52 PM   #1446
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What class/motor were you running?

Are the two compounds that were released both natural rubber? Im assuming they are "similar" to Magenta and Pink?
The Soft and Med compounds are Like the Pink Family rubber. I feel like it is the most versatile rubber available which works for both stock and mod.
I would be very surprised if everyone saw a .2 sec per lap improvement, BC i know that others tires are good as well but i am very happy that many people have seen small improvements with the G12's.

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Old 01-15-2012, 06:18 PM   #1447
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Paulie, what's the right rotor for 1 cell blinky 1/12th scale in a TP can please ?? And mub ay pu to you too kiddo.......

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Old 01-15-2012, 06:49 PM   #1448
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Hey Paul, quick question about tire heat during the main. We run a sweep spec tire at our local track. I was told the more you allow the chassis to roll the less the tires heat up during a run. Which shock oil would allow the suspension to generate less heat on the tires Thin or thicker? I am currently running 400cst but have used 500cst, I used the 500cst when my suspension setup wasn't ideal. After today's local club race I think I finally found the settings my driving style likes using 400cst, but during the main I felt as if the tires were heating up a bit. From looking at the lap times towards the end of the 6min the car was a bit slower but motor temp was fine "140F". Now to just fine tune to pull everything out of the setup for the complete 6min main...

Thank you...
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Old 01-16-2012, 05:19 AM   #1449
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Paulie, what's the right rotor for 1 cell blinky 1/12th scale in a TP can please ?? And mub ay pu to you too kiddo.......

Jacko
Jackkkko!!, I would first try the stock red rotor and play with gearing, gear it low until it has just enough gear to run the straight at a good clip and see how you fair.
after that i would try the blue rotor and gear it up normal where everyone else is geared. Sorry i cant be more specific but i have never run blinky 12th. and i would wick the timing pretty good with both rotors.

If anyone has a more tailored answer for sir Jacko, please post .

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Hey Paul, quick question about tire heat during the main. We run a sweep spec tire at our local track. I was told the more you allow the chassis to roll the less the tires heat up during a run. Which shock oil would allow the suspension to generate less heat on the tires Thin or thicker? I am currently running 400cst but have used 500cst, I used the 500cst when my suspension setup wasn't ideal. After today's local club race I think I finally found the settings my driving style likes using 400cst, but during the main I felt as if the tires were heating up a bit. From looking at the lap times towards the end of the 6min the car was a bit slower but motor temp was fine "140F". Now to just fine tune to pull everything out of the setup for the complete 6min main...

Thank you...
Im not sure that their is a good answer for you BC it depends so much on the driver and how well the car is working. in general Thicker oil will heat the tires more, but probably only if the driver is slipping the tires.

all in all i think that you are Ok BC on carpet tire temp is not very critical, on asphalt you could see .3-.5 sec per lap drop off if you fry your tires but on carpet i have never seen more than .1 and in most cases none at all. so i would say that your drop off at the end of your run was not do to the tires overheating, more likely to them getting dirty or getting rubber build up on them, or some chassis, battery thing.

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Old 01-16-2012, 05:24 AM   #1450
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Hi Everyone. If you havent already done so Please go on Facebook and "LIKE" Gravity RC. and obviously friend request me too!

Thanks
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Old 01-16-2012, 09:07 AM   #1451
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Thanx for the quick reply Paul. In essence if I am using the adjustable pistons in the shocks. Going from 2hole to 3-4hole will act as is i'm using a thinner CST oil and vice versa? ie: 600cst to 500cst, 500cst to 400cst?
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Old 01-16-2012, 11:56 AM   #1452
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Thanx for the quick reply Paul. In essence if I am using the adjustable pistons in the shocks. Going from 2hole to 3-4hole will act as is i'm using a thinner CST oil and vice versa? ie: 600cst to 500cst, 500cst to 400cst?
No problem!. The Piston question is definitely one that i have no idea on a answer for, sorry.

The clickers are really cool but I would try and get away from the clicker pistons completely. First off a 2 hole clicker piston acts different from a 2hole standard piston, so any shock set up that you may want to copy, you will be off to begin with.
secondly many times the clicker piston will get stuck on top of the slots in the body for the clicker assembly, when stuck on top your shock will be limited and will most likely throw your droop Way off from side to side.
My go to shock set up lately is 2hole standard piston with 450cst in the front and 3hole standard piston with 400cst in the rear.

Thanks!
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Old 01-16-2012, 03:26 PM   #1453
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Paul, any advice on building the shocks for the t3 12? I feel the bladder is too big and hard to get in / screw down after you have filled the shocks

Nathan
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Old 01-16-2012, 03:37 PM   #1454
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Paul, any advice on building the shocks for the t3 12? I feel the bladder is too big and hard to get in / screw down after you have filled the shocks

Nathan
Hi Nathan. I always fill the shock, shaft down. then i will place the bladder in the oil and with wrench tip or something push and extend the bladder in to the oil and down in to the body. then i place the plastic cap over the bladder, then i place the aluminum cap around the plastic cap. then while pushing down on the plastic cap and subsequently the bladders rim i will screw on the aluminum cap. sometimes i will turn the aluminum backwards until i feel the threads sit right, then i screw it down in the right direction and bleed the shock upside down from the bottom.
probably sounds more complicated than it really is. But yes, it does seem that the aluminum cap can be hard to get over the bladder sometimes.


hope this helps.
Thanks

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Old 01-16-2012, 04:31 PM   #1455
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sometimes i will turn the aluminum backwards until i feel the threads sit right, then i screw it down in the right direction
Paul that advice is worth a million dollars. I pretty much do that in everything plastic and aluminum and boy does it save parts. It might be common knowledge to some but I don't think I've ever read it posted by anyone before, great advice.
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