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Old 11-05-2011, 11:42 AM   #1321
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
You're going to have to give him a lot more info than that for a suitable answer.
What size track, what ESC and motor etc. And that's if he can give any info on a class he hasn't run. Isn't there someone at your track who runs similar equipment?
We car race on 20x16 metre carpet track
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:52 AM   #1322
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Originally Posted by Corally_27 View Post
HI Paul

I saw on the x ray setup sheet that the foam insert and o-ring on the shaft can be removed from the shocks, what do you gain by removing the one or the other or even both? I always build the shocks as the manual says but i never have the filling that i'm doing them right.

thank you
Hi!. as Skiddins said, the Oring is supposed to be placed on the shock shaft to limit the up travel. This is something that the Tamiya drivers use very much. I dont run the o-ring on the shaft BC im sure that they do it for a reason for their design, im sure its not as simple as throwing a o-ring on any car and calling it good.
Romowing the foam will allow the bladder to flex more, resulting in a shock that has less rebound, the car to me will roll a little more and make rounder cornering without the foam.

Thanks.

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Originally Posted by jlfx car audio View Post
What's up Paul , quick Q for ya. In a grip role situation in mid corner area do we go stiffer or softer wile tring to keep the overall feel the same?
I don't run sway bars and only spec
Can't wait for dalas next week see u then
Hi, I would definately go softer first in a grip roll situation. Reason being that the Spikes of preasure threw the tire with a softer suspension will not happen as fast as with stiffer. usually a car traction rolls from drastic changes in force between the tire and the ground (going fron not much force to a lot very quickly, a softer spring could make the car feel like it has more traction and traction roll less at the same time.

see ya in dallas.

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Hi Paul

what fdr would run on 21.5t in tc boosted plz
Hi Craig. I have never messed with 21.5 boosted, and as with anything boosted their is no true answer. Taking a long shot at it i would try a 4.8 overall and turn up the boost untill you see ideal temps, 175-185f after a race legnth.
sorry i couldnt be help more.

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Originally Posted by cyclone View Post
Hi Paul,

On one of your setup sheets you mention that you find it better not to use the big O-ring in the XRAY gear diff.

Could you explain why, or even just if you have to make any measures to stop the diff leaking without this in?

Regards,

AndyM
Hi Andy. Its possible that i didnt clarify that enough on my sheet. when i refer to the large Oring I an refering to the very skinny very large o-ring for the diff case seal. The xray gear diff has two sealing methods, I find the Gasket that is provided to be pleanty of a good seal, and for the o-ring to just get in the way if it dosent get installed perfect.

Thanks.
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Old 11-06-2011, 12:27 PM   #1323
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what lipo would you run for 17.5t boosted
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Old 11-06-2011, 01:15 PM   #1324
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Hi Paul, quick question regarding camber.

I race on carpet with rubber tyres, most people at our clubs and on the X-ray forums seem to run 1.5 degrees of camber all round.

My driving style is quite different to alot of the other guys, I try to keep the power on for as long as I can and make a flowing track out of a non flowing one (if that makes sense?).

I've noticed that I do tend to wear the outside walls of the tyres out quicker than the inside, although no one else where I race does. I'd imagine this is purely down to the way I drive.

I've also noticed, that you quite often run more camber than most on your setups. If I was to increase to say 2 degrees all round, should that give me more grip? And what would you say is the maximum camber you can run with rubber tyres? (I'm thinking both sorex and ride tyres).

Another quick question, have you ever tried running with inboard toe out on the front (wishbones swept backwards), then adjusting the track rods to give you your desired toe? If so, what would this do?

Cheers for your help, would be nice if the top drivers at the meets where I run we're 10% as helpful as you!
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:01 PM   #1325
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Hi Paul I race on indoor asphalt, here is the situation the 1st and 2nd qualy car was good but on the 3rd qualy and mains the traction goes up bigtime, the car mid corner want to flip over ,just want to know what changes I have to do on a car other than changing tires?
Thanks
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Old 11-07-2011, 09:07 AM   #1326
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what lipo would you run for 17.5t boosted
I would run the thunderpower 5300 65c. Their is always the debate of weather a lower C pack could run better in the stock classes. That arguement does have some merrit but i would just go with the top of the line pack. you need the weight of the heavy battery anyways, so that is what i would do.
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Originally Posted by Mb3195 View Post
Hi Paul, quick question regarding camber.

I race on carpet with rubber tyres, most people at our clubs and on the X-ray forums seem to run 1.5 degrees of camber all round.

My driving style is quite different to alot of the other guys, I try to keep the power on for as long as I can and make a flowing track out of a non flowing one (if that makes sense?).

I've noticed that I do tend to wear the outside walls of the tyres out quicker than the inside, although no one else where I race does. I'd imagine this is purely down to the way I drive.

I've also noticed, that you quite often run more camber than most on your setups. If I was to increase to say 2 degrees all round, should that give me more grip? And what would you say is the maximum camber you can run with rubber tyres? (I'm thinking both sorex and ride tyres).

Another quick question, have you ever tried running with inboard toe out on the front (wishbones swept backwards), then adjusting the track rods to give you your desired toe? If so, what would this do?

Cheers for your help, would be nice if the top drivers at the meets where I run we're 10% as helpful as you!
Hi. for me 3deg is maximum that i will normally run. 3 deg being the most amount of traction that you can have in most cases, so yes i think that you will have more overall traction if you go to 2deg all around.
Their are many other factors such as camber gain, chassis roll and caster that will ultamately determine how much camber your car will actually have in any given corner. But 3deg max is my rule of thumb.

I have had set ups that i use 3deg in the rear and 1 in the front, and i have had set ups that use 3deg in front and 1 in the back. just swapping that camber from front to rear could result in a car that pushes now spinning out or vice versa, so camber is a Very effective tuening adjustment. also i always use the hudy guages when measuring this.

I have tried front pin sweep many times, Both in and out. It definately changes the ballance of the car but i can never really tell how it effects the car in the term of lap time, so i always end up back straight. so i dont really have a answer for you on that. if you test it feel free to tell me!!

Thanks.

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Originally Posted by liteweight View Post
Hi Paul I race on indoor asphalt, here is the situation the 1st and 2nd qualy car was good but on the 3rd qualy and mains the traction goes up bigtime, the car mid corner want to flip over ,just want to know what changes I have to do on a car other than changing tires?
Thanks
Hi, I rarely get to run on a serface like that but i have run in to that on asphalt before. It will most likely be a few changes that yo will have to make as the traction goes up.
First off i think that a softer front sway bar could help. Any time lately that i have gone to a softer front bar the car seems to drive more consistant BC the suspension wont run in to the sway bar and load or unload a tire as much. Really what we need to make your problem go away is that the car needs to transfer its weight more consistantly and not as abrupt. the softer front bar should do this some.
So the first thing that i would try would be the front bar along with one step softer springs all the way around. It is possible that those two changes could cure it.
After that i would look at your body, I feel like the Protoform light weight Speed 6 is the least prone body to traction roll. Also the farther your rear wing back on the body the less the car will traction roll in the high speed stuff.
If their is no ride height rule i would also lower the car, maybe 4.5mm. If it drags, oh well, let it drag.

Those are my first thoughts. hopefully it helps and you still have enough steering

Good luck!

Last edited by Paul L; 11-07-2011 at 12:06 PM.
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Old 11-07-2011, 10:23 AM   #1327
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Thanks a lot Paul, Thank you for answering our questions, You are really a huge asset not only with Xray but also here on RCTECH, And this is the reason Why im going to stay with Xray, Btw 2012 is pre- order
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Old 11-07-2011, 10:35 AM   #1328
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Thanks a lot Paul, Thank you for answering our questions, You are really a huge asset not only with Xray but also here on RCTECH, And this is the reason Why im going to stay with Xray, Btw 2012 is pre- order
+1
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Old 11-07-2011, 11:39 AM   #1329
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Paul,

I have a question that is less about setup, okay a little bit, and more about driving.

I am moving up from an Associated TC4. It was a great car and I got pretty good with it. I now am driving a T3'11. Very nice. I like the smoothness of the belt so much more than the shaft.

I am having trouble navigating the turns though. Our track is tiny! The lanes at at the most 3 feet wide and I am having trouble navigating the 180 degree turns. I know it is my driving style here as I am used to driving a front diff car.

What differences in technique does a driver need to use when using a spool up front?

Is there ever a time where you would put a diff in the front?

The trouble I have in the turns is I cannot make them sharp enough. We are running on carpet that has medium to low traction I am guessing. Rubber tires. I understeer very bad as I cannot get the rear of the car around the track with any kinda traction. If I purposely break it loose I can get around but loose so much speed. Others are turning so fast and carring so much speed it is crazy. They have spools up front and I cannot see how they get around the corner that fast. I have 100% steering, lock-to-lock and still run into the wall on the far side of the corner.

I think I am braking too had and not powering through? I used your carpet setup from the xray forum as a baseline for my setup. I didn't have the new bulkheads or the H1/H2 roll centers but did pick some up. As a quick fix I took the rear sway bar off and it did help but made the back end almost too loose.

Sorry for the length!
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Old 11-07-2011, 11:40 AM   #1330
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Old 11-07-2011, 11:58 AM   #1331
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Thanks a lot Paul, Thank you for answering our questions, You are really a huge asset not only with Xray but also here on RCTECH, And this is the reason Why im going to stay with Xray, Btw 2012 is pre- order
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+1
No problem, I might copy and paist that at the top of every page. LOL
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Old 11-07-2011, 12:13 PM   #1332
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paist


PLEASE don't assist Chase with his spelling homework.
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Old 11-07-2011, 01:29 PM   #1333
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If it helps, here is a pic of the current layout. Turn 4 is giving me the trouble. It is the one right after the venom sign. It is a small track but we have fun. The largest class is by far the recoil class but sedan is catching on. VTA is huge too!
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Old 11-07-2011, 02:31 PM   #1334
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Paul,

I have a question that is less about setup, okay a little bit, and more about driving.

I am moving up from an Associated TC4. It was a great car and I got pretty good with it. I now am driving a T3'11. Very nice. I like the smoothness of the belt so much more than the shaft.

I am having trouble navigating the turns though. Our track is tiny! The lanes at at the most 3 feet wide and I am having trouble navigating the 180 degree turns. I know it is my driving style here as I am used to driving a front diff car.

What differences in technique does a driver need to use when using a spool up front?

Is there ever a time where you would put a diff in the front?

The trouble I have in the turns is I cannot make them sharp enough. We are running on carpet that has medium to low traction I am guessing. Rubber tires. I understeer very bad as I cannot get the rear of the car around the track with any kinda traction. If I purposely break it loose I can get around but loose so much speed. Others are turning so fast and carring so much speed it is crazy. They have spools up front and I cannot see how they get around the corner that fast. I have 100% steering, lock-to-lock and still run into the wall on the far side of the corner.

I think I am braking too had and not powering through? I used your carpet setup from the xray forum as a baseline for my setup. I didn't have the new bulkheads or the H1/H2 roll centers but did pick some up. As a quick fix I took the rear sway bar off and it did help but made the back end almost too loose.

Sorry for the length!
Hi. thanks for the explination and pic. I assume that it could take a special set up to negotiate a very tight turn, lower speed track like this. i think that you are going to want to really stick the car to make it nice and easy to drive, then slowing down for the tight corners is going to be key.

I would go back to the pushy set up that you had, then i would go to the -75 narrower front hex's, this will reduce your scrub and should help you get in to the tighter corners better. Then i would adjust your camber untill you feel like the car has enough steering for you, I would leave 2.5deg in the rear for stability then increase your front camber untill you have enough steering, 3deg maximum.
make sure that your tire prep is good also. whatever sauce that you use i would put some on a rag after every run and clean them with the sauced rag, sometimes on carpet the tires will get a build up on them. That build up will reduce traction a ton.

hope it helps! Thanks.


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PLEASE don't assist Chase with his spelling homework.
Post 1 page 1 of this thread.

""New sponsors, new thread. but dont worry it will have the same horrible spelling, grammer and punctuation as ever, maybe worse!""

I rest my case.

dont worry, my wife will help him, she is way smarter than me.
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Old 11-07-2011, 03:17 PM   #1335
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grammer


Do you mean "grammar?"

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I rest my case.
Likewise!

If you're around tomorrow, give me a call. Hope all is well!
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