Dasmopar

hi Paul.

Do your shoes always eat your socks or just in the summer time?

Blue Screw

Actuallly i witness his first offroad race ever..lol He came down with Jim dieter and Matt francis and other pros were there.. It was at family hobbies in Vineland NJ.. For the TRINITY/caraction shootout... lol all i know almost everytime he went out to prac he came back with his head down and couldnt give jim any info on the motors we were testing believe it was flatwires.. Ya i think that weekend u said Im not racing any offroadfor a while... The cmable back got u.. i believe


Do you remeber paul? Only reasoni do is because i pitted rightnext to u and jim and matt with chad phillips.. cause of the testing... And not to mention I Beat Matt in mod truck and TQnitro and won by 3 laps..lol

Craig W

iTrader: (1)

Paul

What the difference between lg1 and lg2

Paul L

? lol

LOL, oh yea I remember that race for sure. I learned a valuble lesson that week though (stick to on road)

Hi.
Both are reccomended for asphalt.
Lg1 is thinner and harsher, penitrates best. I will use Lg1 on new tires mostly or to clean used tires after the run. evaporates fast, It does smell.

LG2 is a thicker more oily sauce, not harsh, reccomended for foam and rubber outdoor, evaporates very slow, does not smell. I always use it on used rubber tires. A little goes a long way with this sauce, if you apply too much it tends not to work as well for me.

Thanks

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Hi Paul

as usual, your thread is one of the most (only???) useful ones of rctech

I have a question for you - where do you think a "recent" car (say, T3 '012) is better than a older, but still "recent generation" one (say, T3 '010) - for rubbers on carpet?

Guess which one I drive btw

In other words... for the average to good club racer, one that drives all laps consistently within the same half second and crashes, say, once per main, but is still 4 or 5 tenths of the leader's paces on most laps, where do the newer cars help, by how much, and why, really?

thanks for your honest perspective

Best,
Paul from Switzerland

Craig W

iTrader: (1)

would you run lg on carpet or would you run another additive

Paul L

Man, you putting me on the spot here, lol.

Early on in the TC evolution i thought that their were Major steps forward with each and every car released, The drivetrain, suspension, CG, layout were all improoving together. Now it seems like the curent design is so refined and prooven that it is hard to make better, so now it is smaller refinement in the design, materials, manufacturing that is changing.

I do think that the new car will be better for many reasons.

#1 Its new. depending on the persons machanic ability its possible that the newness of the car alone could make him way faster.

#2 set ups. The set ups will be better for it. every year we get better and learn how to get a little more out of our cars, so the set ups for the 2012 should be better than that of the older models, I hope LOL.

#3 manufacturing. for instance i built the drive shafts on my 2012 and the changed the hard coating on one of the peces. faster ?, but better Yes.

#4 whats in the box. with every model the cars get more specialised, maybe not new parts but you will be able to build a better car out of the box, those who didnt know better will be faster.

The level of improovement will very largely depending on who is buying the new car.
So Basically what im saying is, If you want a new car, get it. if you dont, dont.
Could you pick up major speed right away with a new car, definately yes.
Could you go the same speed, again yes.
But eventually with work you will go faster with the new car than you could with your old one.


I hope i dont have to answer any more of those, LOL.

Blue Screw

Paul i step in here for u... what pauls trying to say since hes a major part of xray selling process.... Is the car better... for him yes causehes with in .1 .2 a lap and can feel the diff in like he said the hardcoating ifits better... Like he said there only so many ways to a design but improvements and refinements set xray above the rest!.. It will also help the average racer out so u can refer to setups and like u are ask setup questions...

I hate when people talk about xray saying they hate buying there stuff cause by the time your dialedin with it something new comes out YOU have to look at it like this there one of the onlty companys always test and looking for ways to im prove there cars even thoughit cost them more...!!! LIKE a real racing team.... like other companys they test or know what they need to change but put it off because ofthe cost

JamesL_71

iTrader: (13)

I stumbled across this question/answer and wanted to expand on it.

Paul, given that you run a bit of drag brake, I wanted to know if you also use any push brake? Or do you normally approach a turn and simply let off the throttle briefly before turning in?

Would your approach/braking style differ if you were driving a slower car? Such as blinky 17.5 instead of mod? What about carpet vs asphalt?

Thanks!

kghills

iTrader: (40)

Wow, I read that twice and I have to say it is about the best answer to that kind of question I have ever read. I actually am going to bookmark it to use as a reference when I come across other update questions in other threads. Well done, thank you.

Keith.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Paul,

thanks for that very valuable perspective. You're the best face Juraj, Mario and the team could dream of for their brand.

Best Regards and happy racing,
Paul

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Nov2001? Not bad Thought I was one of the only dinosaurs left here...

Paul

Jay7

Paul, i'm completely new to electric TC and R/C but not to suspension of how a real race car works. I've looked at your setup sheets and noticed you put different size shims under the camber links. What exactly does placing a shim under the camber link do? Does it add static camber that you can measure with the hudy gauges or is it camber gain under suspension load within a turn?

Thank you...

Paul L

Hi. I do use both drag brake and push brake. on carpet i dont use that much push brake though. only in super high speed entry corners or in a overshoot situation. on asphalt i use much more push brake.

I would definately treat drag brake differently in a slower class. lets say 17.5 blinky. i would most likely use 0 drag brake. drag brake builds much more heat in the motor. i would gladly trade drag brake for lower motor temps, then i would gear or time the motor back to the higher motor temp. so essentially in 17.5 blinky you can trade drag brake for speed. I would also re gear and try a stronger rotor to get more natural drag brake. a stronger rotor normally dose not build more heat but will give you more mechanical drag brake.

Thanks

Thanks Kieth, very nice complement!


No problem, again Thanks for the complement!!


Yup you got it. simply adding a shim will change the camber gain and the static camber, when i change camberlink shimming i will always adjust the static camber back to where it was before. this way it is a fair test to see what the camber gain alone does, as you said under suspension travel in the turn.

no problem

Paul L

Hi, Im sorry that i missed this question. I do not reccomend LG for carpet racing. LG1 will work on carpet but i dont reccomend or even try and market it to carpet racers BC of the indoor conditions with the smell of the product. LG2 will also work well in some applications for carpet but again i dont reccomend it BC of its high oil content, LG2 does not smell but i would be afraid of the kind of groove it would build if everyone was using it.

So yes i have used it and it works but i dont reccomend iether, but for different reasons. LOl

LGC (carpet) will be on the way sometime.