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Old 09-07-2011, 05:22 PM   #1216
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Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
Hi. for my electric TC the speed 6 light weight is still the norm for me, I dont dislike the LTCR or the P37 but i normally stick with the speed6.
I tend to mount mine a little bit forward, like 2mm forward of perfect center, i run the stock wing 10mm behind the rear bumper as always. so nothing has changed in a while for me.
for 12th scale i run the AMR12 lite, 10th nitro the P56, 8th scale i like the 909 best, Obviously all Protoform.


thanks!
Thanks for quick reply Paul, I just switch to speed 6 lite, Is it normal that rubber wheels rub just a little on both right and left front fender?
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Old 09-08-2011, 06:30 AM   #1217
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Thanks for quick reply Paul, I just switch to speed 6 lite, Is it normal that rubber wheels rub just a little on both right and left front fender?
That happens to me a little with some of the bigger tires, I normally would try and raise up the front of the body just a hair for that not to happen, but a little rub is not going to kill you.
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:50 AM   #1218
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Im off to CA for the Xray challange at SpeedWorld raceway for the weekend. Ill catch up on anything when i get back next week.

Thanks.
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Old 09-10-2011, 08:58 AM   #1219
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Paul,

Have you been using the new conical springs in your nitro clutches? Do they feel any different from using the traditional spring?

Thanks!
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Old 09-11-2011, 06:57 AM   #1220
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Hi Paul,

Been reading your thread with intrigue, picking up some handy tips!

I've had my t3 '11 for a few months now, race on carpet with sorex 28jb and am 90% happy with the wa the car is setup. It feels good to drive, lap times are consistent, but I just think I need the car to be a tenth or two quicker.

Your cleveland carpet setup is quite radical compared to what I have tried and see other drivers here in the uk use, however, I am keen to give it a try and will be doing next time I'm on track.

I did notice that your roar carpet setup was slightly different, being that you had the 0.00 roll centres in the front rather than the -0.75mm.

What would you suggest I tried initially? I also always run a gear diff with gum in the front as I prefer the way the car feels, will I need to change any of your setup to accommodate this? I race in 10.5t boosted.

Thanks

Mark
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Old 09-12-2011, 02:09 PM   #1221
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Hi Paul,

How critical is it to have equal length shocks, left to right? I was setting my car up and made my shock equal length and as I was doing this I started to question why is this so important?

If the shocks are built with zero rebound, and we have droop screws limiting the one area of travel, and we use the adjustable collars to set the ride height, followed by small tweaks to adjust for tweak. The piston in the shock isn't at one extreme or the other in the stroke and the only limit is being dictated by the amount of holes and the size of the holes that are letting the oil pass thru, and the resistance of the stroke in and out feels the same. How does this make equal shock length an important factor in car setup? Where does piston pack come into effect? Especially in a zero rebound shock? If we where using shocks with variable stroke and rebound I could understand it more, but what am I missing here?

Thanks very much.
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Last edited by Johnny Wishbone; 09-12-2011 at 03:24 PM.
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Old 09-13-2011, 07:07 AM   #1222
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Originally Posted by thunderbt3 View Post
Paul,

Have you been using the new conical springs in your nitro clutches? Do they feel any different from using the traditional spring?

Thanks!
Hi, I have tried them but not recently Xray has now developed the set up for the washers. When i tried them we did not know how many or the order so my success with it was limited. Im sure that we will be using them soon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mb3195 View Post
Hi Paul,

Been reading your thread with intrigue, picking up some handy tips!

I've had my t3 '11 for a few months now, race on carpet with sorex 28jb and am 90% happy with the wa the car is setup. It feels good to drive, lap times are consistent, but I just think I need the car to be a tenth or two quicker.

Your cleveland carpet setup is quite radical compared to what I have tried and see other drivers here in the uk use, however, I am keen to give it a try and will be doing next time I'm on track.

I did notice that your roar carpet setup was slightly different, being that you had the 0.00 roll centres in the front rather than the -0.75mm.

What would you suggest I tried initially? I also always run a gear diff with gum in the front as I prefer the way the car feels, will I need to change any of your setup to accommodate this? I race in 10.5t boosted.

Thanks

Mark
Hi Mark. My Cleveland set up was pretty good but I think that My Roar nats set up from "Timezone Raceway" should be the best one. I would try this or the Cleveland set up, then try the diff and the spool with it.

I do not know what to change from my set ups to make it better with a diff BC i normally like the spool better. too much racing lately and not enough testing lately. .
If you find anything that you like please feel free to post it here for me and everyone!. Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Hi Paul,

How critical is it to have equal length shocks, left to right? I was setting my car up and made my shock equal length and as I was doing this I started to question why is this so important?

If the shocks are built with zero rebound, and we have droop screws limiting the one area of travel, and we use the adjustable collars to set the ride height, followed by small tweaks to adjust for tweak. The piston in the shock isn't at one extreme or the other in the stroke and the only limit is being dictated by the amount of holes and the size of the holes that are letting the oil pass thru, and the resistance of the stroke in and out feels the same. How does this make equal shock length an important factor in car setup? Where does piston pack come into effect? Especially in a zero rebound shock? If we where using shocks with variable stroke and rebound I could understand it more, but what am I missing here?

Thanks very much.
I dont think that you are missing much. The shock legnth determines where the piston will sit in the shock body at any ride height or droop position, This does make a difference on the way the shock works for sure. If the piston is higher, that shock will kinda have less volume BC of the shaft being farther in than the other one and also work the bladder harder and differently during equivilant chassis roll from one side to the other.
we will tweak the cars droop and everything else which will make the piston slightly off so Nothing is ever 100% perfect and ballanced, But i do make sure that my shocks are the same legnth so i know that i am as close as possible to it being proper.

Hope that helps. and that you got threw all my typo's.

Thanks!
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:53 AM   #1223
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Default Harbor Hobbies presents: "Out-With-The-Old..In-With-The-New" Fund Raising Trophy Race

Hello Paul,

Do you think you will be able to make it down for our race?
We are going to run Open TC....

We would really appreciate any support you can give us.

Talk to you soon, Jeff

Harbor Hobbies presents: "Out-With-The-Old...In-With-The-New" Trophy Race, Oct 15-16
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Old 09-13-2011, 04:14 PM   #1224
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Hello Paul,

Do you think you will be able to make it down for our race?
We are going to run Open TC....

We would really appreciate any support you can give us.

Talk to you soon, Jeff

Harbor Hobbies presents: "Out-With-The-Old...In-With-The-New" Trophy Race, Oct 15-16
I think i can make it. I will do my best to get some items for Raffle to help. Thanks!!
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:14 PM   #1225
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Paul,

Do you have the setup you ran at speed world?


Thank you
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:43 PM   #1226
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Hey Paul, Rumor has it that you got lost in Roseville
It was great seeing you race nice win!! Hopefully next year we will see ya again. I will have Billy put a monitor on you so you don't get lost again
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Old 09-14-2011, 12:51 AM   #1227
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Originally Posted by Paul L View Post


Hi Mark. My Cleveland set up was pretty good but I think that My Roar nats set up from "Timezone Raceway" should be the best one. I would try this or the Cleveland set up, then try the diff and the spool with it.

I do not know what to change from my set ups to make it better with a diff BC i normally like the spool better. too much racing lately and not enough testing lately. .
If you find anything that you like please feel free to post it here for me and everyone!. Thanks



Thanks!
Thanks Paul, going to give it a try on Friday.

I've got to say, I'm really intrigued about this setup, as theoretically it should give me loads of back end grip, I'm just wondering where the steering is going to come from?

I know it is sometimes difficult copying other people's setups, as everyone's driving style is different. Mine is very much about keeping power on as long as I can around the track, so i don't necessarily take the shortest possible line, but one where I can keep up the highest possible speed, some tracks suit me, others not so much!

My problem really is that I've been racing for over 20 years but recently came out of a 5 year retirement, the way I drive was always the quickest way before because cars didn't have enough steering/grip to get round any other way, things have changed now!

I'm hoping your style is similar to mine, I've seen a few of your videos and it does seem that way? Maybe I'm wrong!

Btw, trying a lightweight shell for the first time as well, are they noticeably quicker indoors than a standard weight?

Cheers

Mark
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:11 AM   #1228
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Originally Posted by dex410usa View Post
Paul,

Do you have the setup you ran at speed world?


Thank you
Hi. I have not yet put it on line, I will as soon as i can. Thanks. If you dont see it soon remind me. Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Team STPN View Post
Hey Paul, Rumor has it that you got lost in Roseville
It was great seeing you race nice win!! Hopefully next year we will see ya again. I will have Billy put a monitor on you so you don't get lost again
LOL, yes it was pretty bad. Had a great time. see ya!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mb3195 View Post
Thanks Paul, going to give it a try on Friday.

I've got to say, I'm really intrigued about this setup, as theoretically it should give me loads of back end grip, I'm just wondering where the steering is going to come from?

I know it is sometimes difficult copying other people's setups, as everyone's driving style is different. Mine is very much about keeping power on as long as I can around the track, so i don't necessarily take the shortest possible line, but one where I can keep up the highest possible speed, some tracks suit me, others not so much!

My problem really is that I've been racing for over 20 years but recently came out of a 5 year retirement, the way I drive was always the quickest way before because cars didn't have enough steering/grip to get round any other way, things have changed now!

I'm hoping your style is similar to mine, I've seen a few of your videos and it does seem that way? Maybe I'm wrong!

Btw, trying a lightweight shell for the first time as well, are they noticeably quicker indoors than a standard weight?

Cheers

Mark
Hi Mark. My cars normally do have a lot of rear grip, sometimes it hurts me some but give it a try and see what you think.
The light weight shell will make the car more responsive, it shoud be a little bit faster but it will be different to drive. Thanks
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Old 09-19-2011, 08:53 AM   #1229
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Hi Paul,

I bought the TP 17.5 motor for 12th scale. Do I need to do anything to the motor in terms of changing rotor or anything to get going and be competitive?

Good luck at the Nats this week. It's been a long race season this year. Seems like I've seen you more this season than all the seasons before.
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Old 09-19-2011, 10:12 AM   #1230
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Hi Paul,

I bought the TP 17.5 motor for 12th scale. Do I need to do anything to the motor in terms of changing rotor or anything to get going and be competitive?

Good luck at the Nats this week. It's been a long race season this year. Seems like I've seen you more this season than all the seasons before.

Hi Dorian. Im honestly not sure how they are running the 17.5s in 12th scale now. the stock rotor should be pretty good geared a little lower to get the bottom end. i know some use the Blue rotor (stronger) then gear up some BC the Blue rotor will have more torque. Most of the 17.5 testing i did was in TC.

Thanks!!
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