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Old 07-02-2011, 08:06 AM   #1126
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Originally Posted by liteweight View Post
Hi Paul what is the good starting FDR And motor timing for thunder power 17.5 blinky, what rotor should I use track is 120x80?,for outdoor asphalt
Thanks
I dont do much 17.5 running so if anyone has a good starting point fell free to help me out here.
but if i had to go run 17.5 blinky right now i would start with the blue rotor, timed 35deg, geared 3.9. on that big of a track i would suggest running a fan on the motor, check motor temps and go from their, if temps are low gear up. Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by samstheman2 View Post
Hey Paul!

How long do you let the LG oil stay on the tires before a run? Do you ever use tire warmers with this oil?

Also, do you think a 4.0T Mod motor gives an advantage over a 5.0T motor on a 150'x60' asphalt track(besides straights)? I know you usually run a 4.0T, what would you do differently if you were to run a 5.0T?

How suitable would you say a 5.0T is for Jackson RC?

Will you be running 13.5 as well as MOD at the Paved Nationals at Jackson?

Thanks!


Sam

Hi Sam. I would suggest 30 min sauce. if you apply a moderate amount and rub it in, it should air dry within 30 min, then run, if it feels greasy after that amount of time you have applied too much sauce. if you only have 5 min to sauce, you will want to put very little to insure that it has time to dry in 5 min, and Im talking very little.
Tire warmers can be usefull with all sauces but i use this method to not have to use tire warmers, i find that warmers can be very inconsistent and hard to get perfect.

I like to always have more power availible than i could possibly use, i like to drive with the tip of the throttle. a 5.0 geared properly will still be pleanty fast, i think for jackson also.

No 13.5 for me, just mod.

see ya!
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Old 07-02-2011, 06:59 PM   #1127
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Paul,

I noticed on some of your setup sheets you go between 4 and 6 degree blocks. What is the factor you use to make the desicion to run 4 or 6?


Also what are your thoughts on running antidive?


And finaly, On rubber tires on carpet, do you run a car that has a stuck or planted rear, that might have a slight push, or a car with little to no push, but a loose or "sliding" rear?


Thanks,
-Wise-

(PS Goetz say's to "Touch it")
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Old 07-02-2011, 08:25 PM   #1128
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Tp motor 20 degree timing, green rotor, 3.6 Fdr. That's what I've heard a lOt running outdoors.

EA
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Old 07-03-2011, 09:01 AM   #1129
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Originally Posted by chubbspeterson View Post
Paul,

I noticed on some of your setup sheets you go between 4 and 6 degree blocks. What is the factor you use to make the desicion to run 4 or 6?


Also what are your thoughts on running antidive?


And finaly, On rubber tires on carpet, do you run a car that has a stuck or planted rear, that might have a slight push, or a car with little to no push, but a loose or "sliding" rear?



Hi. the advantage of 4deg blocks is that the car will be less loose on power and just have more forward traction to me. the advantage of 6deg is that the car will have more steering and possibly corner speed.
I will run the least amount of caster on asphalt possible if i can make the car steer. lots of times i have to run 6's to get the needed amount of steering to be fast.

Anti dive can be good for sure. i dont normally run anti dive when running 4deg blocks but i will sometimes run anti dive when using 6's, by using anti dive with 6's you are able to get a little bit of the forward traction back that you loose by having 6deg blocks on the car. anti dive will take steering away though so i dont normally run more than .4mm's.

For rubber carpet i like to have a car that is planted in the rear, this way i can drive it hard and hopefully make less driving mistakes. any good carpet car of mine that i have ever put down on asphalt pushes horribly


No problem.

Paul
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Thanks,
-Wise-

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Quote:
Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
Tp motor 20 degree timing, green rotor, 3.6 Fdr. That's what I've heard a lOt running outdoors.

EA

I would go with that then, maybe 35deg is too much.

Thanks EA
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Old 07-06-2011, 06:39 AM   #1130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samstheman2 View Post
Hey Paul!

How long do you let the LG oil stay on the tires before a run? Do you ever use tire warmers with this oil?

Also, do you think a 4.0T Mod motor gives an advantage over a 5.0T motor on a 150'x60' asphalt track(besides straights)? I know you usually run a 4.0T, what would you do differently if you were to run a 5.0T?

How suitable would you say a 5.0T is for Jackson RC?

Will you be running 13.5 as well as MOD at the Paved Nationals at Jackson?

Thanks!


Sam
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul L View Post

Hi Sam. I would suggest 30 min sauce. if you apply a moderate amount and rub it in, it should air dry within 30 min, then run, if it feels greasy after that amount of time you have applied too much sauce. if you only have 5 min to sauce, you will want to put very little to insure that it has time to dry in 5 min, and Im talking very little.
Tire warmers can be usefull with all sauces but i use this method to not have to use tire warmers, i find that warmers can be very inconsistent and hard to get perfect.

I like to always have more power availible than i could possibly use, i like to drive with the tip of the throttle. a 5.0 geared properly will still be pleanty fast, i think for jackson also.

No 13.5 for me, just mod.

see ya!
Hey Sam,
I also had the same questions and come on here to ask Paul.
I noticed you need very little lg2 or else it will not dry within a reasonable time. I applied a healthy amount and after 20 minutes or so it looked like it hadn't even started to dry. I followed by wiping it off almost to the point it was dry and then 10 minutes or so later it was dry.

Paul,
I used lg1 after a run just to clean the tires. Put it on wipe it off and let dry while getting the car ready for the next run. Then i put on lg2 and wait for it to dry. That seemed to produce the best traction for me.
How are you cleaning them after a run?

Thanks
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Old 07-06-2011, 09:16 AM   #1131
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Hey Paul,

I have just finished version 1.0 of my iPhone and Android app called "Setup Workbench", which is now up on the app store and the android market, and I would really like to record some videos of you talking about car setup that I can add into the next version. Is this something you might be interested in discussing, if so you can reach me at marty.crisp at setupworkbench.com

Cheers.
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Old 07-06-2011, 09:46 AM   #1132
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Hey gents in case some of you didn't know Paulie is attending the ETS in Andernach Germany this week so of course he will get to your questions upon his return.
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Old 07-06-2011, 12:06 PM   #1133
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Paul, your Reedy set-up shows total toe in the rear as 3.5 with a 3.5 shim with a 0 outboard toe block. When I put a 3.5 shim in the rear of my T3 it has 5 degrees of final toe with a 0 outboard toe block. Doesn't the T3 come with 1.5 toe automatically built in? If so then shouldn't I just have a 2mm shim in the rear to give it a 3.5 final toe in?

thanks,
JG
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Old 07-07-2011, 08:34 AM   #1134
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Paul, I am currently looking for your setup at West Coast raceway. Can you please let me know where I can find it? I want to use it not only for myself, but other drivers who want to use it as a standard setup at the track. Thank you.
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Old 07-13-2011, 07:51 AM   #1135
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Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
Hey Sam,
I also had the same questions and come on here to ask Paul.
I noticed you need very little lg2 or else it will not dry within a reasonable time. I applied a healthy amount and after 20 minutes or so it looked like it hadn't even started to dry. I followed by wiping it off almost to the point it was dry and then 10 minutes or so later it was dry.

Paul,
I used lg1 after a run just to clean the tires. Put it on wipe it off and let dry while getting the car ready for the next run. Then i put on lg2 and wait for it to dry. That seemed to produce the best traction for me.
How are you cleaning them after a run?

Thanks
Hi. i would reccomend doing exactly what you said, clean well with LG1 after the run then a very light coating of lg2 and let air dry. i have had very good feedback doing exactly that.

Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Crisp View Post
Hey Paul,

I have just finished version 1.0 of my iPhone and Android app called "Setup Workbench", which is now up on the app store and the android market, and I would really like to record some videos of you talking about car setup that I can add into the next version. Is this something you might be interested in discussing, if so you can reach me at marty.crisp at setupworkbench.com

Cheers.
Hi Martin. Cool, ill have to look it up. We can definately talk about it. Hopefully ill see yopu at the nationals. Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard View Post
Hey gents in case some of you didn't know Paulie is attending the ETS in Andernach Germany this week so of course he will get to your questions upon his return.
Thanks Fred, Im home now. Tail between my legs LOL.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jgraham37128 View Post
Paul, your Reedy set-up shows total toe in the rear as 3.5 with a 3.5 shim with a 0 outboard toe block. When I put a 3.5 shim in the rear of my T3 it has 5 degrees of final toe with a 0 outboard toe block. Doesn't the T3 come with 1.5 toe automatically built in? If so then shouldn't I just have a 2mm shim in the rear to give it a 3.5 final toe in?

thanks,
JG
Hi, I think that the sheet sometimes can have an error or maybe i was mistaken when filling it out. I used 3.5degs of rear toe. that was with 1.9mms of shims with 0deg outboard.


Quote:
Originally Posted by johnny55 View Post
Paul, I am currently looking for your setup at West Coast raceway. Can you please let me know where I can find it? I want to use it not only for myself, but other drivers who want to use it as a standard setup at the track. Thank you.
Hi, I never posted that set up because i really was not happy with it atall at that race. And honestly i really dont remember what it was, im sorry for that.
If i had to go back to west coast i would start with my reedy set up but with 4deg caster blocks and a 1.2 front bar. I think that would be a much better base set up.

Thanks.
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Old 07-13-2011, 09:37 AM   #1136
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Paul, I ran the set up. Here's what I experienced. Anytime I overshot the corner the car was very loose, if I overshot the corner I had to chase the backend to keep from spinning out.

On power it was good, off power bad. Where would you start to correct this?

I'm sure most is my 1st time running mod, but I hate a loose car. I can fix being tight, but if it starts out loose then it seems I spend the whole weekend chasing the car.

By the way I did by the TC spec and 4 turn TP, and no one beat me down the straight!

JG
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Old 07-13-2011, 09:45 AM   #1137
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Paul...any chance you are coming to Leisure Hour this SUNDAY for their annual BBQ race? Yes...BBQ and AC pit, or if you have a mod car doing nothing and bring that with, we have about 4-5 of us willing to play toy car with you along with our 4T motor. Howard
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Old 07-13-2011, 09:48 AM   #1138
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Paul, I ran the set up. Here's what I experienced. Anytime I overshot the corner the car was very loose, if I overshot the corner I had to chase the backend to keep from spinning out.

On power it was good, off power bad. Where would you start to correct this?

I'm sure most is my 1st time running mod, but I hate a loose car. I can fix being tight, but if it starts out loose then it seems I spend the whole weekend chasing the car.

By the way I did by the TC spec and 4 turn TP, and no one beat me down the straight!

JG
Hi Jason. I would start with camber, on a normal traction level track you can take out front camber and the car will not cut in to the corner as hard. possibly try running .75deg or 1deg camber in front and 2.5 in rear.
Second i would try a shorter front wheelbase, shorter front wheelbase will moove weight forward over the front tires and normally make the car smoother, especially getting in to the corner. Those two things will normally make the car easier to drive and feel like it has more traction.

Glad the motor is working out for you.
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Old 07-14-2011, 04:58 AM   #1139
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Hello Paul,

Rumor has it you may be at Leisure Hours on Sunday for the BBQ Race....
Any truth? Can I put you down on the list for Modified Touring Car?
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Old 07-14-2011, 05:55 AM   #1140
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Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
Hi Jason. I would start with camber, on a normal traction level track you can take out front camber and the car will not cut in to the corner as hard. possibly try running .75deg or 1deg camber in front and 2.5 in rear.
Second i would try a shorter front wheelbase, shorter front wheelbase will moove weight forward over the front tires and normally make the car smoother, especially getting in to the corner. Those two things will normally make the car easier to drive and feel like it has more traction.

Glad the motor is working out for you.
Thanks Paul. It's nice to be able to get set up info from you here on RC-Tech.

JG
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