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Old 06-02-2011, 06:35 AM   #1051
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Hi Greg, i always run a 4.0. most tracks it is way to much power...
Huh?
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Old 06-06-2011, 05:59 AM   #1052
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Hi Paul I'm racing on asphalt outdoor low traction track, coming into the turn, I have almost a full stop to make a nice tight turn and also coming out on a turn , on trottle the car pushed out
Here is my setup
Thanks Paul
Xray setup
Front * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Rear
Camber 2.0 * * * * * * * * * * * * * 2.0
Toe. * * * * *1. * * * * * * * * * * * * * *-3.0
Droop. * * *1.5. * * * * * * * * * * * * 2.5
Shocks oil. 400. * * * * * * * *400
Shocks spring. * 3.0. * * * * * 2.6
Ride height. * 6MM. * * * * * * 6MM
Camber link. *Inside lower. * *Same
Lower roll center. * *STD. * * * STD
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Old 06-06-2011, 10:38 PM   #1053
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Hello Paul,

I made an r/c drifting video of my tamiya tt01 that I wanted to bring along! I hope you enjoy the video and let me know on facebook, youtube, or msg me on here about what you and also you other guys think of it ! Thank you its actually the second video I have made about rc drifting...the first one was made a very long time ago ! Here is the link...check it out guys...thanks!

http://youtu.be/Eh_-VrQ8uk4
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Old 06-07-2011, 09:17 AM   #1054
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Originally Posted by liteweight View Post
Hi Paul I'm racing on asphalt outdoor low traction track, coming into the turn, I have almost a full stop to make a nice tight turn and also coming out on a turn , on trottle the car pushed out
Here is my setup
Thanks Paul
Xray setup
Front * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Rear
Camber 2.0 * * * * * * * * * * * * * 2.0
Toe. * * * * *1. * * * * * * * * * * * * * *-3.0
Droop. * * *1.5. * * * * * * * * * * * * 2.5
Shocks oil. 400. * * * * * * * *400
Shocks spring. * 3.0. * * * * * 2.6
Ride height. * 6MM. * * * * * * 6MM
Camber link. *Inside lower. * *Same
Lower roll center. * *STD. * * * STD
Hi. i would first make sure that you have full steering throw in the car (inside steering knuckle will touch the caster block). but your settings seem to be ok.
I would try running more front camber like 2.5deg and less rear camber like 1.5deg. also try mooving some weight back on the chassis, if you could moove 20 G back in the car this would help give steering in the center and exit. you could also try a longer front wheelbase.
if you do not have your rear shocks layed all the way in on the tower do that for more steering.
If you have the xray xtra hard front bumper try going back to the softer stock one, the hard version is heavier and the lighter front bumper will give more steering.

Try those things first. good luck!

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Originally Posted by TEXT View Post
Hello Paul,

I made an r/c drifting video of my tamiya tt01 that I wanted to bring along! I hope you enjoy the video and let me know on facebook, youtube, or msg me on here about what you and also you other guys think of it ! Thank you its actually the second video I have made about rc drifting...the first one was made a very long time ago ! Here is the link...check it out guys...thanks!

http://youtu.be/Eh_-VrQ8uk4
Cool, Thanks!
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Old 06-07-2011, 02:30 PM   #1055
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Hi Paul, running ona very very bumpy track with a t3 11 will spool in front and diff in rear, trouble im having when car hits a bump and you are about to accerlerate car goes off line due to spool trying to pull car round... do you think a gear diff could be the way to go or diff?

Thanks Ricky
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Old 06-07-2011, 02:41 PM   #1056
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Hi Paul, running ona very very bumpy track with a t3 11 will spool in front and diff in rear, trouble im having when car hits a bump and you are about to accerlerate car goes off line due to spool trying to pull car round... do you think a gear diff could be the way to go or diff?

Thanks Ricky

Hi. Thats kinda tricky. I rarely race on a super bumpy track and i have never really set out to make a set up for bumpy tracks, but here is what i would try for sure.
I would try a front gear diff and a rear ball diff, i would think that you would loose too much forward bite with a ball diff in front, so maybe 300k or ofna diff locker in the front gear diff with a nice smooth ball diff in the rear. rear ball diffs help the car accelorate straighter and more consistent than a gear diff in the rear. So hopefully the gear diff in front will keep acceloration OK and allow the car to drive consistently for you over bumps.

Thanks!
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Old 06-07-2011, 02:59 PM   #1057
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thans Paul.

Ricky
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Old 06-07-2011, 04:32 PM   #1058
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hey paul... an u give me ur base setup for ur nt1.. and whta opoions u use and dont use .. also what protoform body and how far and wingsize and height and postion
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Old 06-07-2011, 05:55 PM   #1059
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hey paul... an u give me ur base setup for ur nt1.. and whta opoions u use and dont use .. also what protoform body and how far and wingsize and height and postion

Hi. here is my starting set up. I would use blue rear and pink front springs instead of red front and pink rear as the sheet has.

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...setup=nt1_2010

For options i have the hollow 2 speed shafts, springs, aluminum chassis uprights, graphite battery plate, 2 pece brass motor mounts, new front arms, thin front sway bar and i think that is about all. its possible that the new kits come with most, all or more than that now days.

Thanks.
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Old 06-07-2011, 09:27 PM   #1060
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ya it does.. talking with ralph when i order my kits and parts... he said all the light weight stuff comeswith it... but have u tried the new 11 chassis with the mulit flex engine mount.. alsu how is ur top deck mount.. some were say u can have like 3flex opotion with it bye just using screws.. also what body?
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Old 06-08-2011, 09:29 AM   #1061
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ya it does.. talking with ralph when i order my kits and parts... he said all the light weight stuff comeswith it... but have u tried the new 11 chassis with the mulit flex engine mount.. alsu how is ur top deck mount.. some were say u can have like 3flex opotion with it bye just using screws.. also what body?
cool. I am still using the old style chassis and seperated motor mounts but i have not tested the new motor mount yet.
I run my top deck standad with all the screws but for flex you can easily loosen the screws which i have seen many people do, the car will be a little easier to drive with more flex but have a hair less steering in my opinion.

last race i still ran the Protoform P56 but i will start running the P37 because i like that body a lot also. both light weight.

Thanks.
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Old 06-08-2011, 11:09 AM   #1062
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Paul....I heard you are heading to STRICTLY RC this weekend just to entertain us slow guys in Chicago area. Are you going to run the super slow class called open 17.5 with us slow guy..? If you are...I bet alot of us with ditch the MOD class and mount up the 17.5....but if you are running mod, then we need to ditch the slow 17.5 and strap in the 4.0T....

Looking forward to seeing you this SUNDAY. Howard
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Old 06-08-2011, 03:14 PM   #1063
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Hi Greg, i always run a 4.0. most tracks it is way to much power but it keeps my throttle control in check. for jackson i will run a Thunderpower 4.0, 15deg timing geared at 8.6.
In reality Paul runs a 4.0 because it matches his IQ.
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Old 06-08-2011, 03:44 PM   #1064
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Hi Paul another couple of questions for you regarding suspension for this bumpy track..

the track is www.southendrccc.org its a converted off road track has alo of hills and EXTREMLY BUMPY you take the wrong line and you will find yourself in the wall.

regarding suspension would you run small pistons with thin oil and soft springs or large pistons with thick oil and soft springs or either configuration but with harder springs??

I am a local to this track and have tried lots of different things over the years but the car never actually feels 100% settled and info would really appreciate it


and what is the effect of outboard toe in hubs??

Thanks

Ricky
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Old 06-08-2011, 04:34 PM   #1065
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In reality Paul runs a 4.0 because it matches his IQ.
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