R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-24-2011, 07:16 AM   #991
Tech Adept
 
Bullz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 106
Default

Hi Paul,
when race on Asphalt, do you prefer 48 pitch or 64 pitch of gear? Any different?
Thanks
Bullz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2011, 09:15 AM   #992
Gravity RC
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Wi
Posts: 1,147
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullz View Post
Hi Paul,
when race on Asphalt, do you prefer 48 pitch or 64 pitch of gear? Any different?
Thanks
Hi. i use 64p gears on asphalt as well as carpet. i have had pretty good luck even on asphalt with the xray 64p gears. i suppose if the track is really dirty i would think about trying 48p.

Thanks
Paul L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2011, 03:12 PM   #993
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 51
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Paul, what would changing the camber link on rear c-hub from inner hole to outter hole do if the link stay's the same length and height? thanks
franc furter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2011, 04:54 PM   #994
Tech Master
 
trigger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,034
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Hi Paul, just a quick question about the servo saver in the t3 11'. Is it the same as the stiff servo saver or is the stiff an optional piece?
__________________
Minh Nguyen
[Maclan Racing][Xpert]
trigger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2011, 04:44 AM   #995
Tech Elite
 
nitrobeast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Colonia, NJ
Posts: 2,333
Trader Rating: 41 (100%+)
Default

Hey Paul,
Can you please explain tuning with shock position on asphalt?
__________________
Rui Goncalves
Reds Racing USA|Hot Race Tyres USA|Team CRC|Team Trinity|
Jackson RC|Horsham RC|Floyd Bennett|Blue Diamond
Jackson curbs, ready for lift off!

Last edited by nitrobeast; 05-02-2011 at 10:45 AM.
nitrobeast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2011, 05:23 AM   #996
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 73
Default

Hi Paul,

I am a newbie with TC racing. Right now I have an xray T3 2011 and I am racing a 13,5 class.
Speed wise etc I have the car dialed and it is one of the fastest if not the fastest in its category in our track.
Where I seem to need a lot of help is with the setup of the car (well apart from my driving skills :lol)
The car is very good on the first turn after the straight but it tends to push a little when entering a corner and then it suddenly breaks loose.
I seem to have lots of problems on the last left turn entering the straight where the car can break traction on the rear at any point of the bend sometimes even as I straighten it and get on the throttle for the straight.
The tires we use are HPI 15-40 (26mm) with HPI soft inserts and we are limited to HPI scale bodies (I use a Lamborghini Murcielago)
Our track and the course can be seen below.
To get an idea of scale the length of the straight is 90m.
Usually the traction is very low.
The setup is the stock setup of the 2011 but obviously since I use 26mm tires by keeping to the recommended ride height and downstop values I also get more droop.
One of the fastest guys in 10,5 uses no droop in the rear and tons of droop in the front. I tried this setup at some point but the car was undrivable for me with the rear very loose.
I am thinking about lowering the rear roll center and laying down the rear shocks. How does this sound.
Do you have any suggestions as a starting point?
I have read the theory behind car setup but being a beginner I sometimes have problems understanding the difference a change makes.
Attached Thumbnails
Ask Paul Lemieux, RC America/MOTIV/Gravity RC-a25k.jpg  
taz00 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2011, 10:37 AM   #997
Tech Elite
 
BigDogRacing's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 2,955
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to BigDogRacing
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by franc furter View Post
Paul, what would changing the camber link on rear c-hub from inner hole to outter hole do if the link stay's the same length and height? thanks
Paul may be busy, so until he can reply, I'll try to help-
A- nothing, because you aren't changing the arc of travel on either plane. Realistically, it can't be done easily. The distance between hole centers on upright differs from the distance between inner/outer ball locations on shock tower. So the link will be slightly longer or shorter one way or the other.


Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
Hey Paul,
Can you please explain tuning with shock position?
Beast- he's gonna want to know what class, racing surface etc. It makes a difference most of the time.

In the meantime, here's the fundamentals-
lower arm location- changes the leverage and travel length of the shock package over the arm.
shock tower location- leverage and spring rate stay the same, but spring progression and wheel rate are changed. This is relative to a given amount of suspension travel.
BigDogRacing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2011, 06:29 PM   #998
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,167
Trader Rating: 77 (100%+)
Default

Paul - congrats on the win at the Xray challenge and thanks for the great tire seminar. I certainly learned a lot, especially being a newbie.

I was there for all the races minus the main. What did you do before the main to get the car ready to win? Seemed you were fast all weekend but the car was handling horribly and I just can't believe you got it that good for the main.

Again congrats and thanks for the fun racing.
goin2drt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2011, 08:14 PM   #999
Tech Master
 
ByteStream's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: 5280 Raceway
Posts: 1,142
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Paul,

I saw that you were using the new Upper Clamps. Seems the recommended ball studs do not screw all the way into the clamps (ballstud threads do not go all the way to the top), which means you can't run them at 0mm shims. I suppose you could force them in but I assume that would muck up the threads. What did you do in your case .. or did I get some janky clamps and/or ballstuds?
ByteStream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2011, 08:20 PM   #1000
Tech Master
 
ByteStream's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: 5280 Raceway
Posts: 1,142
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Ask Paul Lemieux, RC America/MOTIV/Gravity RC-dsc_0473.jpg
ByteStream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2011, 08:25 AM   #1001
Gravity RC
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Wi
Posts: 1,147
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by franc furter View Post
Paul, what would changing the camber link on rear c-hub from inner hole to outter hole do if the link stay's the same length and height? thanks
Hi, I think if you were to simply moove the link out (being the same legnth and all) the car would turn in to the corner harder by allowing the car to transfer more weight forward faster, then i beleive the car would also squait more equally to the rear under acceleration and have less on power rotation.
that is really just a theory but i have never had the adjustment on the car to test that acurately.
Thanks


Quote:
Originally Posted by trigger View Post
Hi Paul, just a quick question about the servo saver in the t3 11'. Is it the same as the stiff servo saver or is the stiff an optional piece?
Hi. Im not sure, i have been using the servo saver that comes in the kit with all three rings inside as the instrictions show. I dont know of any optional servo saver parts or if it is any different than the kit.

sorry.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
Hey Paul,
Can you please explain tuning with shock position on asphalt?
Hi. for me it is pretty simple this goes for carpet and asphalt. i almost always run the middle hole or 1 more layed in from it in the front. i always start on the middle hole and if i want the front end to roll more i will lay them in to the next hole down.

for the rear i will start on the second hole from the bottom, i almost always end up running the rear shocks all the way layed down though, with the rear shocks all the way layed down the car does lack forward traction compaired to having them stood up 1 hole but the car has more steering and more sorner speed layed all the way in. a good comprimise in the rear could be to stand the rear shocks up 1 or 2 holes then run the 2.4 spring instead of the 2.6. it is possible that you could keep the forward bite this way and still have the rear end roll for corner speed. i will try that at the next asphalt race. or if you try it let me know.

Thanks.



Quote:
Originally Posted by taz00 View Post
Hi Paul,

I am a newbie with TC racing. Right now I have an xray T3 2011 and I am racing a 13,5 class.
Speed wise etc I have the car dialed and it is one of the fastest if not the fastest in its category in our track.
Where I seem to need a lot of help is with the setup of the car (well apart from my driving skills :lol)
The car is very good on the first turn after the straight but it tends to push a little when entering a corner and then it suddenly breaks loose.
I seem to have lots of problems on the last left turn entering the straight where the car can break traction on the rear at any point of the bend sometimes even as I straighten it and get on the throttle for the straight.
The tires we use are HPI 15-40 (26mm) with HPI soft inserts and we are limited to HPI scale bodies (I use a Lamborghini Murcielago)
Our track and the course can be seen below.
To get an idea of scale the length of the straight is 90m.
Usually the traction is very low.
The setup is the stock setup of the 2011 but obviously since I use 26mm tires by keeping to the recommended ride height and downstop values I also get more droop.
One of the fastest guys in 10,5 uses no droop in the rear and tons of droop in the front. I tried this setup at some point but the car was undrivable for me with the rear very loose.
I am thinking about lowering the rear roll center and laying down the rear shocks. How does this sound.
Do you have any suggestions as a starting point?
I have read the theory behind car setup but being a beginner I sometimes have problems understanding the difference a change makes.
Hi, cool looking track!.
i think that lowering the rear roll center will help you, i do not think that laying in the rear shocks will though, laying in the rear shocks will make the car looser on corner exit. So i would try lowering the rear roll center and possibly running a little more rear camber (3deg max), also it may help to take 1mms of shimms out from under the front camber link above the caster block. Those are the first things that i would change. if this dose not help you let me know and i will shoot you some more suggestions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDogRacing View Post
Paul may be busy, so until he can reply, I'll try to help-
A- nothing, because you aren't changing the arc of travel on either plane. Realistically, it can't be done easily. The distance between hole centers on upright differs from the distance between inner/outer ball locations on shock tower. So the link will be slightly longer or shorter one way or the other.




Beast- he's gonna want to know what class, racing surface etc. It makes a difference most of the time.

In the meantime, here's the fundamentals-
lower arm location- changes the leverage and travel length of the shock package over the arm.
shock tower location- leverage and spring rate stay the same, but spring progression and wheel rate are changed. This is relative to a given amount of suspension travel.
Thanks BIg dog, I was out of town.

Quote:
Originally Posted by goin2drt View Post
Paul - congrats on the win at the Xray challenge and thanks for the great tire seminar. I certainly learned a lot, especially being a newbie.

I was there for all the races minus the main. What did you do before the main to get the car ready to win? Seemed you were fast all weekend but the car was handling horribly and I just can't believe you got it that good for the main.

Again congrats and thanks for the fun racing.
Thanks, glad i was able to help a little.
I did struggle last weekend with getting the car comfortible. Honestly i did not change anything for the main, sometimes its best to simply realise that you are not going to get the car perfect and just prepair your self to drive it as best as you can and that is what i did. a little luck on my part helped me in the main as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ByteStream View Post
Paul,

I saw that you were using the new Upper Clamps. Seems the recommended ball studs do not screw all the way into the clamps (ballstud threads do not go all the way to the top), which means you can't run them at 0mm shims. I suppose you could force them in but I assume that would muck up the threads. What did you do in your case .. or did I get some janky clamps and/or ballstuds?

Hi. i did notice the same thing with mine. I guess that i am just a hatchet BC i just reefed them and screwed it all the way in, LOL. so i guess that is what i reccomend. Thanks!
Paul L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2011, 08:34 AM   #1002
Tech Elite
 
GeorgePravata's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Brooklyn New York GO HARD OR GO HOME!!!!!!
Posts: 3,356
Trader Rating: 106 (100%+)
Default

just dropping in to say whats up and how you doing drop me a line
__________________
TEAM ASSOCIATED,REEDY POWER, AKA, TQ WIRES, SILLYBOYZ PRODUCTS.
GeorgePravata is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2011, 12:53 PM   #1003
Gravity RC
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Wi
Posts: 1,147
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgePravata View Post
just dropping in to say whats up and how you doing drop me a line

Hi George, nice to hear from you. maybe ill see you at Jackson for the nats.
Hope all is well.
Paul L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2011, 01:54 PM   #1004
Tech Champion
 
Kevin K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: In a land of mini-mighty mental giants
Posts: 8,812
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Kevin K Send a message via Yahoo to Kevin K
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
I guess that i am just a hatchet BC i just reefed them and screwed it all the way in, LOL. so i guess that is what i reccomend. Thanks!
Classic Paulie....Long Live Thirteen Twooo!!!

You have any plans to make some of the parking lot races that the Jinkin is puttin on this summer?
__________________
2013 USVTA World Champion of the World
MOTIV RC presents the Midwest All-Star Carpet Series....14th year running 2016/17!!!
USVTA National Championship....check it out!!!
Im only responsible for what I say NOT what you understand.
Kevin K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2011, 01:58 PM   #1005
Tech Master
 
Xpress's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Dirt sucks!
Posts: 1,602
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin K View Post
Classic Paulie....Long Live Thirteen Twooo!!!
Preach on! Aren't we the charter members of the thirteen twooo fan club?
__________________
"Desire is the key to motivation, but it's the determination and commitment to an unrelenting pursuit of laying it down - a commitment to excellence - that will enable you to attain the success you seek to beat ass."

-Espo
Xpress is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Around The Table With Paul Lemieux(RC-America/Thunderpower) Paul L Electric On-Road 1384 12-18-2009 08:06 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:40 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net