Bullz

Hi Paul,
when race on Asphalt, do you prefer 48 pitch or 64 pitch of gear? Any different?
Thanks

Paul L

Hi. i use 64p gears on asphalt as well as carpet. i have had pretty good luck even on asphalt with the xray 64p gears. i suppose if the track is really dirty i would think about trying 48p.

Thanks

franc furter

iTrader: (1)

Paul, what would changing the camber link on rear c-hub from inner hole to outter hole do if the link stay's the same length and height? thanks

trigger

iTrader: (15)

Hi Paul, just a quick question about the servo saver in the t3 11'. Is it the same as the stiff servo saver or is the stiff an optional piece?

nitrobeast

iTrader: (46)

Hey Paul,
Can you please explain tuning with shock position on asphalt?

taz00

Hi Paul,

I am a newbie with TC racing. Right now I have an xray T3 2011 and I am racing a 13,5 class.
Speed wise etc I have the car dialed and it is one of the fastest if not the fastest in its category in our track.
Where I seem to need a lot of help is with the setup of the car (well apart from my driving skills :lol)
The car is very good on the first turn after the straight but it tends to push a little when entering a corner and then it suddenly breaks loose.
I seem to have lots of problems on the last left turn entering the straight where the car can break traction on the rear at any point of the bend sometimes even as I straighten it and get on the throttle for the straight.
The tires we use are HPI 15-40 (26mm) with HPI soft inserts and we are limited to HPI scale bodies (I use a Lamborghini Murcielago)
Our track and the course can be seen below.
To get an idea of scale the length of the straight is 90m.
Usually the traction is very low.
The setup is the stock setup of the 2011 but obviously since I use 26mm tires by keeping to the recommended ride height and downstop values I also get more droop.
One of the fastest guys in 10,5 uses no droop in the rear and tons of droop in the front. I tried this setup at some point but the car was undrivable for me with the rear very loose.
I am thinking about lowering the rear roll center and laying down the rear shocks. How does this sound.
Do you have any suggestions as a starting point?
I have read the theory behind car setup but being a beginner I sometimes have problems understanding the difference a change makes.

BigDogRacing

iTrader: (12)

Paul may be busy, so until he can reply, I'll try to help-
A- nothing, because you aren't changing the arc of travel on either plane. Realistically, it can't be done easily. The distance between hole centers on upright differs from the distance between inner/outer ball locations on shock tower. So the link will be slightly longer or shorter one way or the other.


Beast- he's gonna want to know what class, racing surface etc. It makes a difference most of the time.

In the meantime, here's the fundamentals-
lower arm location- changes the leverage and travel length of the shock package over the arm.
shock tower location- leverage and spring rate stay the same, but spring progression and wheel rate are changed. This is relative to a given amount of suspension travel.

goin2drt

iTrader: (77)

Paul - congrats on the win at the Xray challenge and thanks for the great tire seminar. I certainly learned a lot, especially being a newbie.

I was there for all the races minus the main. What did you do before the main to get the car ready to win? Seemed you were fast all weekend but the car was handling horribly and I just can't believe you got it that good for the main.

Again congrats and thanks for the fun racing.

ByteStream

iTrader: (2)

Paul,

I saw that you were using the new Upper Clamps. Seems the recommended ball studs do not screw all the way into the clamps (ballstud threads do not go all the way to the top), which means you can't run them at 0mm shims. I suppose you could force them in but I assume that would muck up the threads. What did you do in your case .. or did I get some janky clamps and/or ballstuds?

ByteStream

iTrader: (2)

Paul L

Hi, I think if you were to simply moove the link out (being the same legnth and all) the car would turn in to the corner harder by allowing the car to transfer more weight forward faster, then i beleive the car would also squait more equally to the rear under acceleration and have less on power rotation.
that is really just a theory but i have never had the adjustment on the car to test that acurately.
Thanks


Hi. Im not sure, i have been using the servo saver that comes in the kit with all three rings inside as the instrictions show. I dont know of any optional servo saver parts or if it is any different than the kit.

sorry.

Hi. for me it is pretty simple this goes for carpet and asphalt. i almost always run the middle hole or 1 more layed in from it in the front. i always start on the middle hole and if i want the front end to roll more i will lay them in to the next hole down.

for the rear i will start on the second hole from the bottom, i almost always end up running the rear shocks all the way layed down though, with the rear shocks all the way layed down the car does lack forward traction compaired to having them stood up 1 hole but the car has more steering and more sorner speed layed all the way in. a good comprimise in the rear could be to stand the rear shocks up 1 or 2 holes then run the 2.4 spring instead of the 2.6. it is possible that you could keep the forward bite this way and still have the rear end roll for corner speed. i will try that at the next asphalt race. or if you try it let me know.

Thanks.



Hi, cool looking track!.
i think that lowering the rear roll center will help you, i do not think that laying in the rear shocks will though, laying in the rear shocks will make the car looser on corner exit. So i would try lowering the rear roll center and possibly running a little more rear camber (3deg max), also it may help to take 1mms of shimms out from under the front camber link above the caster block. Those are the first things that i would change. if this dose not help you let me know and i will shoot you some more suggestions.

Thanks BIg dog, I was out of town.

Thanks, glad i was able to help a little.
I did struggle last weekend with getting the car comfortible. Honestly i did not change anything for the main, sometimes its best to simply realise that you are not going to get the car perfect and just prepair your self to drive it as best as you can and that is what i did. a little luck on my part helped me in the main as well.


Hi. i did notice the same thing with mine. I guess that i am just a hatchet BC i just reefed them and screwed it all the way in, LOL. so i guess that is what i reccomend. Thanks!

GeorgePravata

iTrader: (171)

just dropping in to say whats up and how you doing drop me a line

Paul L

Hi George, nice to hear from you. maybe ill see you at Jackson for the nats.
Hope all is well.

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

Classic Paulie....Long Live Thirteen Twooo!!!

You have any plans to make some of the parking lot races that the Jinkin is puttin on this summer?

Xpress

iTrader: (3)

Preach on! Aren't we the charter members of the thirteen twooo fan club?