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Old 03-03-2011, 08:51 PM   #871
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Default Drilling shocks

Pual

I wanted to ask if you could show a picture or direct me to one that shows where to drill a hole in the shock cap? Also do you drill holes in the shocks for your nitro car?

Thanks for the help
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Old 03-04-2011, 09:24 AM   #872
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Originally Posted by vwvrt View Post
Hi paul
i wanted to ask is there such a thing as gearing efficiency.
The reason i ask is i recently went from an fdr of 8.8 using a 18 t pinion and 84t spur to an fdr of 6.9 using a 23pinion and 84t spur, this seems to have mad a slight off power drag effect creating alot more off power steering. is this somthing you have noticed. how would you compensate for this.
Btw i always use 0 drag brake.
also could you direct me to a good setup for the t3 2010 on rubber , tight carpet track . medium traction. most setups seem to be very close to the xray factory setup or is that a good setup to stick with, im looking for a bit more responsive car without loosing to much grip.

Thanks! matt
Hi Matt. The gearing does effect the drag brake for sure, but what you explaned is backwards from how it works. The higer the final drive ratio or lower the pinion gear is the more car will slow down off throttle. If i were to go from a 4turn geared at 116/24 to a 5turn geared at 116/26 i would dial up the drag brake in the speedo a little to get the off throttle feel similar between the two.

set up: Its hard to say for sure because my set ups are much different from the factory set ups. If i were to go back and run my 2010 car i would try one of my 011 set ups with the 2010car. I think that the set ups from the new car would work well on the old car. If the track is tight i would try my cleveland or snowbirds set up but with the stock wheel hexs. for the steering on the 10car i would run the post forward on the chassis with the bell crank adjustment full short, keeping in mind that if the car pushes it will have more steering with every knotch longer you go on the bell crank.

Thanks

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thank you!
no problem!

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Originally Posted by Wonton View Post
Pual

I wanted to ask if you could show a picture or direct me to one that shows where to drill a hole in the shock cap? Also do you drill holes in the shocks for your nitro car?

Thanks for the help
Hi, i do run the shock cap drilled on my nitro cars also. I dont know how to post a pic on here LOl. what i do is drill a small hole in the cap, I set the plastic cap on the table upright, I then drill the hole at a 45deg angle coming in below the the shock ball right in the middle of the broad curve of the cap, if you drill it at a 45deg angle the hole will come out of the bottom roughly in the center . it really is not that criticle as to how or where you do it, just as long as you vent the chamber of air above the bladder. if you still want a pic, PM me your email and i will send you a pic from my phone. Thanks
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Old 03-04-2011, 12:26 PM   #873
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It was nice to meet you and get lapped! Haha

Hope to race with you again soon Paul.


I have a few pics from bc indoor champs at
http://joshuasouthoaks.blogspot.com
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Old 03-04-2011, 04:12 PM   #874
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ok thanks for the advice
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Old 03-04-2011, 06:29 PM   #875
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Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
Hi Matt. The gearing does effect the drag brake for sure, but what you explaned is backwards from how it works. The higer the final drive ratio or lower the pinion gear is the more car will slow down off throttle. If i were to go from a 4turn geared at 116/24 to a 5turn geared at 116/26 i would dial up the drag brake in the speedo a little to get the off throttle feel similar between the two.

set up: Its hard to say for sure because my set ups are much different from the factory set ups. If i were to go back and run my 2010 car i would try one of my 011 set ups with the 2010car. I think that the set ups from the new car would work well on the old car. If the track is tight i would try my cleveland or snowbirds set up but with the stock wheel hexs. for the steering on the 10car i would run the post forward on the chassis with the bell crank adjustment full short, keeping in mind that if the car pushes it will have more steering with every knotch longer you go on the bell crank.

Thanks



no problem!



Hi, i do run the shock cap drilled on my nitro cars also. I dont know how to post a pic on here LOl. what i do is drill a small hole in the cap, I set the plastic cap on the table upright, I then drill the hole at a 45deg angle coming in below the the shock ball right in the middle of the broad curve of the cap, if you drill it at a 45deg angle the hole will come out of the bottom roughly in the center . it really is not that criticle as to how or where you do it, just as long as you vent the chamber of air above the bladder. if you still want a pic, PM me your email and i will send you a pic from my phone. Thanks

Does it matter what size if hole you drill or is everyone using a standard size?
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Old 03-06-2011, 05:41 PM   #876
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Paul, was wondering if you adjust dual rate during a race. Also do you balance your tires. thanks
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Old 03-06-2011, 05:51 PM   #877
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Ok, it worked very well. Followed it to a T, even the 2 degree caster blocks. The front is perfect, it hung in there the whole race, but the rear still needs traction. At the end of the run it tends to break loose in the rear when going thru a high speed corner. I have to start feathering the throttle to keep it from breaking loose.

What do you recommend?
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Old 03-07-2011, 05:48 AM   #878
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Originally Posted by jgraham37128 View Post
Ok, it worked very well. Followed it to a T, even the 2 degree caster blocks. The front is perfect, it hung in there the whole race, but the rear still needs traction. At the end of the run it tends to break loose in the rear when going thru a high speed corner. I have to start feathering the throttle to keep it from breaking loose.

What do you recommend?
I tried some of Paul's ideas yesterday and the car was great except for some grip roll (the Sweeps we use have huge grip).
I used what is similar to a basic setup but with 2.25mm wishbone shims and the wide front hexes with 3deg rear toe.
Also had +.75 front RC's and 0.00 rears.

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Old 03-07-2011, 10:18 AM   #879
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Originally Posted by R3VoLuTiOn View Post
It was nice to meet you and get lapped! Haha

Hope to race with you again soon Paul.


I have a few pics from bc indoor champs at
http://joshuasouthoaks.blogspot.com
Great to meet you also. Thanks!

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Originally Posted by vwvrt View Post
ok thanks for the advice
No problem.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgraham37128 View Post
Does it matter what size if hole you drill or is everyone using a standard size?
It dosent really matter what size hole, as long as it is bigger than a pin hole it should not make a big difference. maybe 0.5mm or so.

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Originally Posted by franc furter View Post
Paul, was wondering if you adjust dual rate during a race. Also do you balance your tires. thanks
Hi. No i never adjust my dual rate, i set the car up to have full throw but not trying to push beyond it, then work with the set up from their.

I dont normally ballance my tires. sometimes when i do ballance my tires i will re check them and they are out of ballance again, so unless it is way out of wack i will just let them be.

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Originally Posted by jgraham37128 View Post
Ok, it worked very well. Followed it to a T, even the 2 degree caster blocks. The front is perfect, it hung in there the whole race, but the rear still needs traction. At the end of the run it tends to break loose in the rear when going thru a high speed corner. I have to start feathering the throttle to keep it from breaking loose.

What do you recommend?
I would try and moove your rear wing back on the body if you can, with side dams on the wing. and moove some of your weight on the chassis forward in the car. those things together should help make the car more stable. hopefully it dose not push at the begining of the race now.

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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
I tried some of Paul's ideas yesterday and the car was great except for some grip roll (the Sweeps we use have huge grip).
I used what is similar to a basic setup but with 2.25mm wishbone shims and the wide front hexes with 3deg rear toe.
Also had +.75 front RC's and 0.00 rears.

Skiddins
Great. i would try 0 front roll centers and -75 rear roll centers, it could help the car act softer and maybe not grip roll.
Good luck!
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Old 03-07-2011, 12:15 PM   #880
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Default Pan Car setup

Hi Paul,

Couple questions for you. On your pan car setup suggestions when you add the 3mm to the inner arm mount to lengthen the top arm, do you still run the upper arm cross brace? (Carbon fiber brace, or active brace).

Now I know you haven't been running the WGT but would this be something you would run on it as well?

Are you just using 3mm aluminum shims or are you making a actual block?

FYI, I went back and tried your 11 setup on the 10 car, definitely worth looking into.
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Old 03-07-2011, 08:20 PM   #881
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hey paul reguarding back to the dual rate... so ur saying u set it at max on radio an epa maxed till it bindeds an equal of course.. then if its too twitcy or to much steering u just drive it or make setup changes to make it push... how big is you turning circle? and since ur tires are moving so much doesnt that create unwanted tire heat?
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Old 03-08-2011, 07:55 AM   #882
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Hi Paul,

Couple questions for you. On your pan car setup suggestions when you add the 3mm to the inner arm mount to lengthen the top arm, do you still run the upper arm cross brace? (Carbon fiber brace, or active brace).

Now I know you haven't been running the WGT but would this be something you would run on it as well?

Are you just using 3mm aluminum shims or are you making a actual block?

FYI, I went back and tried your 11 setup on the 10 car, definitely worth looking into.

I do away with the graphite brace when i shim the upper arms closer together on the X12, if you want to re drill it to still use it i think that that would be fine, the brace would make the car a bit easier to drive and less steering.
I would do the same thing on the world GT for high bite.
I use 2 of the 1.5mm aluminum suspension mount shims off of the TC to get 3mm's. so in total i have 8 of those shims in the front end.
Glad to hear that the set ups are working on the old car as well, Thanks.


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hey paul reguarding back to the dual rate... so ur saying u set it at max on radio an epa maxed till it bindeds an equal of course.. then if its too twitcy or to much steering u just drive it or make setup changes to make it push... how big is you turning circle? and since ur tires are moving so much doesnt that create unwanted tire heat?
Yes, I set the dual rate at 100% then i dial my EPA's back untill the inside knuckle is touching the caster block for full my full throw. with this the inside tire has maximum throw in each direction availible at all times. The Circle size is more dependent on how far the outside tire turns, which in my case is dependent on the amount of ackermann the set up has. if i am running very little ackermann, the outside tire will turn more and the car will have a very small circle, if i am running a lot of ackermann the outside tire will not turn as much and the circle will be larger.
In doing this their is the opportuinity to overheat the front tires, especially on asphalt but it is then up to the driver to only use as much of the throw as needed in any given corner to not have that happen. to smooth out the twitch I always use between 15 and 30% negitive steering expo.

thanks.
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Old 03-09-2011, 11:58 AM   #883
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The Circle size is more dependent on how far the outside tire turns, which in my case is dependent on the amount of ackermann the set up has. if i am running very little ackermann, the outside tire will turn more and the car will have a very small circle, if i am running a lot of ackermann the outside tire will not turn as much and the circle will be larger.
That simultaneously makes sense and seems backwards to me. In any case, due to the effect you mentioned above, would it actually be possible that less ackerman could lead to increased traction rolling, because it will let the front end dig in harder and flip the car?

-Mike
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Old 03-09-2011, 02:49 PM   #884
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That simultaneously makes sense and seems backwards to me. In any case, due to the effect you mentioned above, would it actually be possible that less ackerman could lead to increased traction rolling, because it will let the front end dig in harder and flip the car?

-Mike
Yes, Having less ackermann (outside tire turning more) makes the car more aggressive and would in some cases be more likely to traction roll.
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Old 03-09-2011, 06:40 PM   #885
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Default Ceramic diff balls

Paul, what's the advantage of ceramic diff balls? I've actually never used them and see post that say it's a hoax and other swear by it. I see you can buy both Xray ceramic diff balls and the ceramic thrust bearing. Do you use these or just the regular one's.
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