Originally Posted by artoftatt2
the x ray link II..
that is the 12th scale pan car...
Their are some things that I have been doing to the car that i feel have made it better.
The TC and nitro cars are so turn key out of the box because the team that we have around the world is specialised in those classes and the information flows from the team to the public so very well.
Personally i have never been well rounded in the pan classes so sometimes i feel like if i dont have the best information to offer i may be best not saying anything. I think now i am getting ok with setting up our 12th car.
here is basicly everything i know about 12th scale along with some things that i changed as well.
In the front end i use the Middle cam for the reactive caster, for the caster clips i use the large clip in back with the med and small clip in front. Keep in mind that less caster will make the car easier to drive with less steering.
The Plastic suspension balls (pn 373241) are a must in my mind, these will keep the car more consistent all the way around the track.
I use associated long 22front springs in my car, with these i use 0 front droop.
I set the front droop by shimming the king pin untill i see the smallest amount of droop on both sides when i lift up the front end off of the table, then i add a .2mm shim to both sides and then you will have 0droop, the spring wont be super preloaded and the preload will be equal from side to side also.
I use Xray 30,000 lube on the king pins and i polish the king pins also.
I shim the front sus uprights closer together by 3mms per side, By this I trim the Boss off of the inside of the lower arm and use 3mms of spacers in between the arm and the upright, you will have to use longer button head screws in doing so. The result of this is that your upper arm will be longer, in doing so your front end will have less camber gain and more consistent bump steer. the result on the track with this will be a car that is easier to drive.
I use CRC pink or majenta tires at 41.5mmFT and 42mmR for high bite, for lower bite i would use 42.5mmF and 43mm rear. Front ride height shimmed between 3 and 3.5mms.
For the side shock i reccomend Xray 250wt oil, anything thicker with the solid piston is too thick for me.
For the stock center shock I use 800-1000wt cst oil, 800 for bumpy tracks and 1000 for smooth tracks. the thicker oil makes the car much better for me on power and more consistent all the way around.
When building the center shock with stock spring i leave it with a good amount of rebound, you can push the shaft all the way in but it will come all the way back out.
Side springs/cross brace:
I shim up the cross brace off the chassis by 1.5mm, and top plate off the pod by 1.5mm. by shimming the cross brace up it allows more room for the side springs and allows for the side springs to not be preloaded with the pod at rest. By shimming up the top plate off of the pod it allows the side shock to have the room it needs to have a good range of travel.
I have been using speedmerchant Med side springs, they have a larger set screw and spring retainer for the side spring preload adjustment, I drilled out the holes on the cross brace for the set screws to use these springs.
springs: speedmerchant PN 5065.
For the side spring preload i allow both springs to touch the links with the car on the table, but not to be preloaded. the more preload you put on the side springs the more initial steering you will have but i feel like the car will handle the most consistent with both springs just bairly touching.
Rear pod, ride height and rear droop:
I set the ride height of the pod itself at 4mm. the pod will then have sag while setting the ride height of the chassis (with center shock preload) to between 3 and 3.5 mms at the chassis. this means that the chassis will be flat or close to it from front to back but the pod will have some angle in it while resting on the pit board. That will set the rideheight of the car.
For droop I will adjust the legnth of the center shock to allow the pod to droop just on the other side of level. I eyeball it, but if you can amajine the sag that the pod has in compairison to the chassis resting at ride height, it will have the opposite amount of sag in the other direction for droop
Keep in mind that when making the shock longer or shorter you will be adjusting the ride height as well, so you will have to compinsate with preload on the spring to get it just right on the table.
That is all i know, LOL. I Hope some of it helps.