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Old 02-10-2011, 10:50 PM   #841
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[QUOTE=Paul L;8631387]Hi. A 4.0 motor should be pleanty fast, that is the wind that i normally use.
A gear diff will always have the potential to make a faster lap time but is much less forgiving than a ball diff, especially on power. I normally use a gear diff now, but it is harder for me to make no driving mistakes with it.

The key for me to get a good ball diff is in the thrust, whenever i rebuild my ball diffs i always replace the thrust. use the flat side of thrust washer (no built in groove for thrust balls), if one side has a factory groove just use the other side. I will then use Hudy black grease or associated black grease on the thrust. for the rings i will sand them with 600-1000grit sandpaper untill no signs of previous wear is showing, you want to sand the ring to have little scratches all over from the sandpaper, this gives the balls traction on the rings. For ball/ring grease i normally use associated stealth clear grease, just a dab on each ball and a film of it on the back side of the ring.

hope this helps


Cheers mate on the advice! When you say a film of grease on the backside of the ring thats the side that sits against the drive cup side is it.I might try running the ball diff as i had run it while using my 17.7t with boost and found it to be quite nice to drive.Only problem i have found is that through one of our hairpin turns and sweeper the back end kicks out slightly so what would you do tho change this so its planted.On the rest of the track it feels really nice and planted.

Last edited by shano83; 02-11-2011 at 12:15 AM.
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Old 02-12-2011, 03:25 PM   #842
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Hey Paul, I have a question regarding springs.

A fast guy told me that running a stiffer front spring will give the car more high-speed steering, assuming because it keeps the front end flatter, but other sources say the opposite because it keeps more weight on the rear. What's your opinion? I could see both being true depending on the front roll centers, but figured I'd ask a pro-fessional
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Old 02-14-2011, 12:33 PM   #843
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Originally Posted by bfong13 View Post
Hey Paul,

First, great run at both the Snowbirds and the Winternats the last two weeks down here in Florida. I managed to watch you and the rest of the Xray team in Fort Myers. I have a question about your NT1 setup from the Winternats, more specifically, about your rear camber link setup. What was your thought process behind positioning the inner link in hole #5 and using 8mm shims on the outer link? This is so radically different from most of the other NT1 setups I've seen. Thanks.

Hi. Thanks.
I choose to raise the camberlink as a whole, i feel like it gives the rear end a little more roll and gives the link more control over the suspension. its not a drastic change Bc i did not change the angle or legnth of the link but i feel it made the car a little easier to drive without taking to much steering away.

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Originally Posted by gonzo416 View Post
Paul,
Do you run a gear diff in the front too. instead of a spool? If so, what is the difference in handling?
Hi. On my T311 i did not use a front gear diff. it definately is an option, it seems like more people are doing this. It is something that i have played with, on some tracks i have found it to be easier to drive and sometimes faster, on other tracks i have found it to not be an advantage. if you do try it i would use 300,000 to 500,000 wt oil in front and 1,000 to 2,000 in the rear.

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Originally Posted by arn671 View Post
Hi Paul, Wondering if there's a noticeable difference in performance between the low profile membranes for the current shocks in the T3 11' vs. the membranes in the older shocks (T2 for example). I've torn a couple of the newer membranes and never really had issues with the older ones? Or would you recommend other brands of membranes that can be used (Tamiya, Losi...)? Thanks in advance!
Hi. I have never cracked the new bladder but i have had a few people tell me that they have also. Honestly i dont know if their is a huge difference in handling between the old and new ones. The new ones will be more prone to cracking Bc its a smaller bladder and still has to compinsate for the same displacement in the shock. so i guess i dont really have a good answer for you, sorry.

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Originally Posted by gonzo416 View Post
Paul, another question. Why do the spool outdrives break when using the 50mm ecs that you recommend in your setups? It doesn't happen when using the 52mm ones.
The spool outdrives will break easier with the 50mm shafts because the shaft does not rest as far in to the outdrive. to help with this i shim my outdrives out 1mm per side, this way the drive shaft rests farther inside the outdrive cup and it will not break as easy.
Thanks

[QUOTE=shano83;8635563]
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Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
Hi. A 4.0 motor should be pleanty fast, that is the wind that i normally use.
A gear diff will always have the potential to make a faster lap time but is much less forgiving than a ball diff, especially on power. I normally use a gear diff now, but it is harder for me to make no driving mistakes with it.

The key for me to get a good ball diff is in the thrust, whenever i rebuild my ball diffs i always replace the thrust. use the flat side of thrust washer (no built in groove for thrust balls), if one side has a factory groove just use the other side. I will then use Hudy black grease or associated black grease on the thrust. for the rings i will sand them with 600-1000grit sandpaper untill no signs of previous wear is showing, you want to sand the ring to have little scratches all over from the sandpaper, this gives the balls traction on the rings. For ball/ring grease i normally use associated stealth clear grease, just a dab on each ball and a film of it on the back side of the ring.

hope this helps


Cheers mate on the advice! When you say a film of grease on the backside of the ring thats the side that sits against the drive cup side is it.I might try running the ball diff as i had run it while using my 17.7t with boost and found it to be quite nice to drive.Only problem i have found is that through one of our hairpin turns and sweeper the back end kicks out slightly so what would you do tho change this so its planted.On the rest of the track it feels really nice and planted.
Yes, i do put a film of grease between the diff ring and the outdrive. as a slight change to make the rear more planted i would take a touch of camber out of the front and moove 10g of weight to the front, or move to a shorter front wheelbase. it should plant the car high and low speed. Thanks!

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Originally Posted by cwoods34 View Post
Hey Paul, I have a question regarding springs.

A fast guy told me that running a stiffer front spring will give the car more high-speed steering, assuming because it keeps the front end flatter, but other sources say the opposite because it keeps more weight on the rear. What's your opinion? I could see both being true depending on the front roll centers, but figured I'd ask a pro-fessional

Hi. On carpet i agree that a stiffer front spring will give the car more initial high speed steering, we almost always use a 3.0ft spring, a 3.0 definately has more high speed steering than a 2.8 on carpet. a 3.2 is normally too stiff for me so i would test it a couple of times before settling on that.
for asphalt the same is normally true but it could be opposite BC on asphalt we focus more on not overheating the front tires, and a stiffer front spring could sometimes overheat the front tires and end up pushing worse.
Thanks
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Old 02-14-2011, 02:59 PM   #844
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Paul L,

Are you using the Thunder Power TP820CD charger?

And if so will you tell what you think about it.

Thx,

brent
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Old 02-15-2011, 07:30 AM   #845
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Paul L,

Are you using the Thunder Power TP820CD charger?

And if so will you tell what you think about it.

Thx,

brent
Hi, for the last year i have used the 610c chargers with no problems, i am now using the 610c ac/dc charger and have had very good luck with it also.
I have not used the 820 but i can only assume that it is of quality also.
The 610 acdc charger which i use seems to be a great value, it is pretty small in size for a acdc charger and is priced nicely to compete in price with lesser quality chargers. With this charger i have charged my packs at 6amps with no problems, I never charge more than that anyways so it is a great charger for me.

Thanks!
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Old 02-18-2011, 06:42 AM   #846
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Paul, it was nice meeting you at the Snowbirds. Thanks for taking the time to share your race craft knowledge.
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Old 02-19-2011, 09:41 AM   #847
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Paul, it was nice meeting you at the Snowbirds. Thanks for taking the time to share your race craft knowledge.
No problem at all, that means im "Crafty" lol.


Thanks!
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Old 02-21-2011, 12:32 AM   #848
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Default Hey Paul i have a question!!

Hi Paul,

I recently got a t311 and the problem I am having is the car seems very loose into the corner, Im running kit setup with 350cst oil all round with 3 hole pistons Ive tried shorter wheel base, more/less camber, lower ride height and nothing seems to help. I thought maybe it was my driving so drove my mate t310 and it was planted and great to drive. No one at my track is running the T311 all the fast guys are driving TCX and Yokomo. My question is would shock length or shock rebound cause this, I am running plastic shocks at 63mm and 0% rebound?? I am running on a medium grip, asphalt track which is pretty fast and flowing.

Thanks

Ryan
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Old 02-22-2011, 11:33 AM   #849
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Originally Posted by shano83 View Post
Hi Paul,

I recently got a t311 and the problem I am having is the car seems very loose into the corner, Im running kit setup with 350cst oil all round with 3 hole pistons Ive tried shorter wheel base, more/less camber, lower ride height and nothing seems to help. I thought maybe it was my driving so drove my mate t310 and it was planted and great to drive. No one at my track is running the T311 all the fast guys are driving TCX and Yokomo. My question is would shock length or shock rebound cause this, I am running plastic shocks at 63mm and 0% rebound?? I am running on a medium grip, asphalt track which is pretty fast and flowing.

Thanks

Ryan
Hi Ryan. Their are a few things together that i would do that should help your problem. First off here is my starting carpet set up, I think that this set up should be pushy if anything on asphalt. http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t3_2011 For the next asphalt race that i attend i will start with this set up, but with standard (stock) hexs and work from it.

The key things with this set up that i think will help you are the wheelbase, shocks, camber and rear toe.
Wheelbase being long in the rear and short in front will plant the car by moving weight forward on the chassis.
The shocks being thicker, especially in the front should help the car carry corner speed and not get as loose and unload the suspension in the corners.
The camber will also make the car easier to drive (dont be afraid to run 2.5in the rear to plant it even more).
3.5 total rear toe should also help the car stick also.

Hope this helps, let me know how it works for you. Thanks!
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Old 02-24-2011, 02:02 AM   #850
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hi paul.
Thanks for your previous advice and must say that your basic carpet set up is great other than i am getting traction roll. Is there any way of overcomming this without too much change to the set up. I have switched to the atomic metal outdrives on the spool as i have boken 2 plastic outdrives. Also i have needed to machine out the wheel rims to allow clearance of the screws on the camber links, is this normal? I am using sorex tyres on revalite wheels as this is the brca spec in the uk.
Thanks Jay
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Old 02-24-2011, 11:53 AM   #851
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hi paul.
Thanks for your previous advice and must say that your basic carpet set up is great other than i am getting traction roll. Is there any way of overcomming this without too much change to the set up. I have switched to the atomic metal outdrives on the spool as i have boken 2 plastic outdrives. Also i have needed to machine out the wheel rims to allow clearance of the screws on the camber links, is this normal? I am using sorex tyres on revalite wheels as this is the brca spec in the uk.
Thanks Jay


HI Jay.
I use the Xray ball studs with the open ended ball cups on my outer camberlinks, this gets rid of the screw under the wheels, but yes that is normal with some wheels.

For the traction roll I have some suggestions if you are not already doing so.
If you are not using a light weight body i would do so, light weight Protoform speed 6 seems to still be the stand by, and make sure its mounted very close to the minumim roof height.
With my carpet set up i think that one of the things that helps it not traction roll is the +75 front hexs and the -75 rear hexs, so if you did not copy that from the set up I would try it for sure.
Make sure that the ride height is at the absolute minimum.
A nother thing that you may find to help would be a middle front roll center mount instead of the low front roll center that the set up calls for, if you do this remove 1mm of camber link shimm from the front camber link on caster block to keep your camber gain similar but .25mm less.
If above Fails, try a thinner front sway bar, maybe 1.3mm. seems opposite but normally it helps my car feel like its farther from traction rolling when i run a thinner front bar?.
If all fails i suppose i would think about glueing the sidewall of my front tires.



Hope this helps.

Thanks!
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Old 02-24-2011, 11:59 AM   #852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
HI Jay.
I use the Xray ball studs with the open ended ball cups on my outer camberlinks, this gets rid of the screw under the wheels, but yes that is normal with some wheels.

For the traction roll I have some suggestions if you are not already doing so.
If you are not using a light weight body i would do so, light weight Protoform speed 6 seems to still be the stand by, and make sure its mounted very close to the minumim roof height.
With my carpet set up i think that one of the things that helps it not traction roll is the +75 front hexs and the -75 rear hexs, so if you did not copy that from the set up I would try it for sure.
Make sure that the ride height is at the absolute minimum.
A nother thing that you may find to help would be a middle front roll center mount instead of the low front roll center that the set up calls for, if you do this remove 1mm of camber link shimm from the front camber link on caster block to keep your camber gain similar but .25mm less.
If above Fails, try a thinner front sway bar, maybe 1.3mm. seems opposite but normally it helps my car feel like its farther from traction rolling when i run a thinner front bar?.
If all fails i suppose i would think about glueing the sidewall of my front tires.



Hope this helps.

Thanks!


Paul, what's the part number for the ball studs?
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Old 02-24-2011, 12:13 PM   #853
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Paul, what's the part number for the ball studs?
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...10mm%20%282%29

There are other lengths too that are shorter but these are what you need front and rear.

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Old 02-24-2011, 12:33 PM   #854
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Thanks EA
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Old 02-24-2011, 04:41 PM   #855
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Default Ballstud spacing?

Hey Paul or EA, I noticed that in some of the carpet set-up you guys have listed you're going with up to 5mm of spacers in the rear uprights, to help clear the rims you go to the xray ball-cups with the holes in them. My question is whether or not you compensate for the difference in height of the ballstud/ball cup combo vs the stock captured ball/cup system? EA's snowbirds set for example-would it be 5mm spacer under the ballstud? I measured the difference between the stock cup/ball vs ballstud/cup system and the height difference is 1+ mm would I then run 4mm spacers or the 5mm spacer? Thanks in advance!
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