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Old 12-05-2010, 05:42 PM   #676
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I don't really care about the wear, it's more the overheating and inevitable under/oversteer that comes with it
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Old 12-05-2010, 05:51 PM   #677
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Paul, what front to rear weight bias percentages have you been running running on the T3'11? Thanks.
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Old 12-05-2010, 06:37 PM   #678
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I don't really care about the wear, it's more the overheating and inevitable under/oversteer that comes with it
Oh, by "punishing" I thought you meant "wearing", my mistake.
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Old 12-05-2010, 09:15 PM   #679
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Oh, by "punishing" I thought you meant "wearing", my mistake.
yeah I probably should have specified
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Old 12-05-2010, 11:40 PM   #680
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When I switched from the Tamiya TRF416 to the Xray T3 the first thing I noticed on asphalt was the significant increase in tyre wear. After a year of racing the T3 I still have not been able to get the same tyre wear that I enjoyed with the 416.
and sadly, you won't...
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Old 12-05-2010, 11:57 PM   #681
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Last edited by RCknight; 12-06-2010 at 12:01 AM. Reason: double post
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Old 12-06-2010, 12:00 AM   #682
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I wonder why that is from a techical standpoint? Xray has a dual steering now.

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When I switched from the Tamiya TRF416 to the Xray T3 the first thing I noticed on asphalt was the significant increase in tyre wear. After a year of racing the T3 I still have not been able to get the same tyre wear that I enjoyed with the 416.
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Old 12-06-2010, 12:18 AM   #683
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I clearly said that I had a T3, not a T3-11.

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I wonder why that is from a techical standpoint? Xray has a dual steering now.
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Old 12-06-2010, 12:34 AM   #684
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Yeah I got that, my question, is it the same with the T3'11?

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I clearly said that I had a T3, not a T3-11.
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Old 12-06-2010, 06:25 AM   #685
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what the hell is a hillbilly link?? sorry, new to xray

Hey Paul, quick one for ya, I had my T3'11 whippin today but it was punishing its tyres (or tires as you upside down fellas call them), especially the rears. I'm running kit setup with the H roll centres on the front, shocks laid down 1 hole front and rear, and 500 MM oil. I was gonna go to 600 oil, is there anything else I can try? thanx in advance, party on
The hillbilly link is the super long angled link that runs to the shock tower mounts, looks kina funny.

softer cars will be easier on tire wear, chassis, oil, spring. but i dont really put that to use when setting up a car.
I try and set the car up to where it has the most possible amount of steering and traction. then when you drive the car smooth and without turning the wheel very much to get the car turned my tire wear is great. when i can do that i am always very fast. at the reedy race i was very successful in doing so to the point of which even the TRF team was pondering my lack of tire wear. Its easier said than done but maybe check out that set up on the XRAY site and see if anything stands out to you.
thanks

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got a quick question about a eazy way to change t-2 2006 to lipo set up with out buying a new car thanks
Hi. In my opinion the set back to that car for lipo is that the motor is farther off center than the more recent models, this will make you run the lipo farther off center or use more weight on the battery side of the car to make it ballanced. you could make peces out of an old top deck to raise the deck and get the battery tucked in but i dont think it would help do to the motors position. i would put the battery in at an angle (not under the top deck) and find a good way to secure it, then ballance it out with lead and see where you stand. I wish i had a better answer for you but i think the car will still work well.

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Originally Posted by jkirkwood View Post
Paul, what front to rear weight bias percentages have you been running running on the T3'11? Thanks.
For carpet i have been running the car more front heavy than stock, I have long rear wheelbase, short front, speedo behind the servo and 15G on each side in front of the servo and battery. i dont know what % that is. for asphalt it will most likely be more rear heavy.

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Yeah I got that, my question, is it the same with the T3'11?
Going back to my first post on steering = good tire wear. the T311 has really good natural roll and steering, so i think that it will be easier to get the proper amount of steering needed to drive smooth and have good tire wear on asphalt. There are not any design aspects in my mind that will simply make it not wear tires but since it has more natural steering i think it has the potential to wear less tire if applied.

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Old 12-06-2010, 01:47 PM   #686
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Sifu,

Two piston holes in front instead of three ? Are you just checking to see if we are paying attention ?

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Old 12-06-2010, 04:34 PM   #687
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Hey Paul, whats the advantage of running outboard toe versus inboard? Thanks
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Old 12-06-2010, 07:49 PM   #688
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Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
softer cars will be easier on tire wear, chassis, oil, spring. but i dont really put that to use when setting up a car.
I try and set the car up to where it has the most possible amount of steering and traction. then when you drive the car smooth and without turning the wheel very much to get the car turned my tire wear is great. when i can do that i am always very fast. at the reedy race i was very successful in doing so to the point of which even the TRF team was pondering my lack of tire wear. Its easier said than done but maybe check out that set up on the XRAY site and see if anything stands out to you.
thanks
Thanks for the reply Paul, my question was more about thing to try to prevent overheating the tyres during the run rather than prevent excessive tyre wear

ta!
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Old 12-06-2010, 08:09 PM   #689
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Paul,
I am looking for ideas to get more corner speed out of my car. What things do you think I should play around with. I am fairly new to TC and setup.
Thanks in advance,
Mike
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Old 12-07-2010, 08:17 AM   #690
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Originally Posted by Magnet Top View Post
Sifu,

Two piston holes in front instead of three ? Are you just checking to see if we are paying attention ?

LOL, yup i used two hole pistons in the front with 500. i do think this worked better with the t311.

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Originally Posted by franc furter View Post
Hey Paul, whats the advantage of running outboard toe versus inboard? Thanks
Hi, the biggest difference that you will notice is that with more outboard toe vs inboard the rear will roll more. all inboard toe makes the rear end bind threw suspension travel do to the arm sweep it creates. with all inboard toe you will find that the car is more responsive going in to the corner and will have more rear bite coming out but the rear will not roll as much. sometimes people get confused BC when adding inboard toe you are also making the car shorter, shorter = more steering but more toe = less steering, so its kinda a double change. normally when i add inboard toe i will also make the rear longer to compinsate for the wheelbase change.
Basicly i always run around 3deg total toe, if i want the rear to roll more i will take away inboard toe and add it outboard. Right now for higher bite carpet with the T311 the car becomes Nosy so i prefer 2deg inboard and 1deg outboard, for really low bite carpet or asphalt i will start back at 3deg inboard.


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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Thanks for the reply Paul, my question was more about thing to try to prevent overheating the tyres during the run rather than prevent excessive tyre wear

ta!
Yes, i think they go hand in hand. if you have enough steering and dont use all the availible throw to get around the track i beleive that your overheating will go away. on asphalt i always try really hard when driving not to slip a tire, but obviously the car must work very well to do so.

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Originally Posted by mracer View Post
Paul,
I am looking for ideas to get more corner speed out of my car. What things do you think I should play around with. I am fairly new to TC and setup.
Thanks in advance,
Mike
Traction and tire prep is key, ill take the biggest unballanced bucket of a car as long as it has pure traction.
From a set up standpoint a car that rolls evenly threw the corner always seems to have the best corner speed for me. as traction levels get higher it is always harder to get the car to roll evenly. sometimes when i test on carpet i will cheat myself and run the car lower than 5mms just so i can see the chassis drag after a run to physically see proof of how the car is rolling. from their i will tune the car to try and get the chassis to drag more evenly across the side. Those tuening things would normally be, shock oil, different size hexs, shock position on tower. i find that the more i lay in my rear shocks the more corner speed i normally have but the serious downside to that is the lack of forward bite you will recieve while doing so. It really depends on what type of track that you are running on BC most of my suggestions would be specifically related to your track, current set up and how the car is working for you right now.

Thanks!
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