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Old 12-02-2010, 05:51 AM   #661
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Hi Paul can I still get parts for my t1fk04 from rc america I love this car thanks
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Old 12-02-2010, 07:37 AM   #662
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Ill ask a friend of mine from Denver to PM you and give you the info so you can check it out.
oh boy, oh boy, oh boy, oh boy!!!!!!!!!!!!! i'm from denver..........am i your friend paul.....can i be your friend..........i have your picture hanging in my shower.........if i send it to you will you sign it for me?......it's a little used up, i hope you dont mind..........why havent you aproved me as a facebook friend yet.......i've sent you like 10 requests...........ok, gotta go, my dad's coming back.............by paul
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Old 12-02-2010, 08:44 AM   #663
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Thanks!

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Originally Posted by peter_robinson View Post
Do you ever run the 2.25 on Paragon tracks? My club still uses paragon and when I tried the 2.25 my car just pushed like a bus... I went back to the 1.5.

I am guessing since you are making the rounds to all the big races using sticky fingers and jack, instances where the cars always seem to be more edgy, 2.25 is nice and easy to drive. I will for sure give it another try the next time I head to Timezone.

Later!
Yea it has been a long time since i ran on a paragon carpet track, if the track has a sub floor the cars always seem more edgy, the softer the sub floor the more edgy/nosy the car will be. so i could see in your case maybe 1.5 being better, but i always use 2.25. let me know what you find, Thanks!

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is it worth up grading to the t311 thanks
At Cleveland my car was really good, it always takes a little while to figure out a new car but i can definately say that the T311 was better than i ever had my T3 at the last race. so really it depends on weather you want a new car or not.

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Hinpaulbcan I still get parts for my t1fk04 from rc america I love this car thanks
Hi, I think they still carry some stuff for that car, or should have some old stock, most likely suspension peces. I would Call Rc america and they should be able to lead you as to how and where to get what you are looking for. Thanks

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oh boy, oh boy, oh boy, oh boy!!!!!!!!!!!!! i'm from denver..........am i your friend paul.....can i be your friend..........i have your picture hanging in my shower.........if i send it to you will you sign it for me?......it's a little used up, i hope you dont mind..........why havent you aproved me as a facebook friend yet.......i've sent you like 10 requests...........ok, gotta go, my dad's coming back.............by paul

LOL, I tried calling you. Well, did you send a PM on racing in the area?

Thanks
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Old 12-02-2010, 12:08 PM   #664
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thanks
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Old 12-02-2010, 07:35 PM   #665
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Hey paul, seen your cleveland setup on the xray site. Did you have any traction rolling issues? Also, when traction rolling, how do you approach the rear? More or less grip? Any other pointers you can share? Having traction roll problems with my t3 11. It's basically stock setup. Thanks for the help.
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Old 12-03-2010, 08:43 AM   #666
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Thank you for the reply Paul. I will definitely use those techniques tomorrow.

Another question - when you build a new car, how do you get the same amount of play in the arms while keeping them free? Do you tighten the lower suspension holders then tighten down the roll center holders or the other way around?
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Old 12-03-2010, 04:02 PM   #667
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Hey paul, seen your cleveland setup on the xray site. Did you have any traction rolling issues? Also, when traction rolling, how do you approach the rear? More or less grip? Any other pointers you can share? Having traction roll problems with my t3 11. It's basically stock setup. Thanks for the help.
Hi, normally adding rear grip will help with traction roll. i feel like traction roll normally comes when the car is doing something inconsistent , normally this comes from the front end because the front tires do a lot to make the car corner, normally adding rear grip will mellow out whatever the front is doing wrong. the number 1 cause in my book for traction roll is abrupt preasure spikes on the tires, meaning that if the tire goes from not having much preasure on it to having a lot of preasure on it very quickly it can result in the tire suddinly gripping the track and flip, softer suspension will help this not happen. my rule of thumb is that anything that you do to make the car roll more will normally help with traction rolling, softer bars, softer springs, lower suspension pins etc. a lot of times its BC the rear isnt rolling enough, sometimes i find that narrower rear hexs can help, also outboard rear toe will make the rear roll more and can help like 2 inside +1 outboard instead of just 3deg inboard.

hope this helps, Thanks

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Thank you for the reply Paul. I will definitely use those techniques tomorrow.

Another question - when you build a new car, how do you get the same amount of play in the arms while keeping them free? Do you tighten the lower suspension holders then tighten down the roll center holders or the other way around?
I normally fasten the aluminum to the chassis first then put on the pin holders but their could be a better way.
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Old 12-03-2010, 04:07 PM   #668
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Hi Paul,

I am trying the hillbilly link tomorrow on the T311, have you tried them on the rear of the car at all and what would the result be ?
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Old 12-04-2010, 01:15 AM   #669
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hi paul,

With alu shocks what is the piston holes size good for asphalt low grip.thanks
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Old 12-04-2010, 10:54 AM   #670
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Hi Paul,

I am trying the hillbilly link tomorrow on the T311, have you tried them on the rear of the car at all and what would the result be ?
For asphalt i still say that the long link is the best, but for carpet i have gone back to the stock L links. I have tried the super long link on the rear before and it will take away steering and rotation, will drive smooth though.


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hi paul,

With alu shocks what is the piston holes size good for asphalt low grip.thanks
I havent run the aluminum shocks in a while but i would say that the stock pistons should be good, the last set i built had 1.1 pistons. i would start at 600ft and 400R oil.

thanks
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Old 12-05-2010, 12:44 AM   #671
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Paul-

What;s the theory behind setting the front hinge pin holders with 2.25mm shimming? This effectively makes the front track width wider than the rear yes? What's the benefit? I see more and more people running it this way.

Also, what are your thoughts on diff height with rubber tires?

Coming back out to timezone anytime before the carpet nats?
Peter, if Paul doesn't mind, I can help a little with the technical aspect on your question....
Moving the arm out at the inner pin mainly changes both the wheelbase AND shock angle. This is important because wider hexes only change wheelbase hub centerline/tire centerline relationship. By moving the pin you're basically laying the shock down lower which is probably why you felt a push after doing so. If you brought the lower shock mount closer to the pin you would be changing the length of your lever/fulcrum which changes the effective spring rate as well as dampening. So the best thing to move is the upper shock mount maybe 1 hole out. That should bring the feel back. Of course you have also changed the fr/rr load rate by making the wheelbase wider so it's not gonna be exactly the same....


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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
I know this has been asked before but;

How does raising the the camber link an even amount at both ends (so the angle doesn't change) effect the handling. i.e. when using the H1 H2 QRC's it mentioned that another 1mm must be added to the outside to keep the link the same.

Thanks
Skiddins
Again, if Paul doesn't mind I'll give you the technical aspect of your question.... raising the upper link equally so that it stays at the same angle actually lowers your static roll center. This is a good example of how you can change the roll center slightly w/o changing your camber rise. However in your case I believe you are keeping the same angle but changing the length of your link. This will effectively keep the same static roll center, but change your dynamic RC as well as your camber rise.

Thankfully, Paul can give you answers that help you on the track. I can only give you answers that help you draw pretty pictures of your suspension geometry....lol
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Old 12-05-2010, 12:46 AM   #672
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what the hell is a hillbilly link?? sorry, new to xray

Hey Paul, quick one for ya, I had my T3'11 whippin today but it was punishing its tyres (or tires as you upside down fellas call them), especially the rears. I'm running kit setup with the H roll centres on the front, shocks laid down 1 hole front and rear, and 500 MM oil. I was gonna go to 600 oil, is there anything else I can try? thanx in advance, party on
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Old 12-05-2010, 07:25 AM   #673
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Old 12-05-2010, 05:15 PM   #674
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got a quick question about a eazy way to change t-2 2006 to lipo set up with out buying a new car thanks
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Old 12-05-2010, 05:23 PM   #675
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what the hell is a hillbilly link?? sorry, new to xray

Hey Paul, quick one for ya, I had my T3'11 whippin today but it was punishing its tyres (or tires as you upside down fellas call them), especially the rears. I'm running kit setup with the H roll centres on the front, shocks laid down 1 hole front and rear, and 500 MM oil. I was gonna go to 600 oil, is there anything else I can try? thanx in advance, party on
When I switched from the Tamiya TRF416 to the Xray T3 the first thing I noticed on asphalt was the significant increase in tyre wear. After a year of racing the T3 I still have not been able to get the same tyre wear that I enjoyed with the 416.
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