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Old 11-18-2010, 01:45 PM   #646
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Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
Hi Guys, i have done it 100 different ways, i do it by hand and get it pretty close like that, but i tweak station (bubble) will do the same thing as feeling for the weight like i do. If i ever have a car that is seriously awesome i will put it on 4 scales to document the F/R weight %.
I have also used 4scales to tweak the car and it does work for me, youl never get it totally perfect, but you just want your left and right resr close and your left and right front close.

Maybe you are getting varied results from variables with the 4 scale system, next time you try this first use the tweak station get the bubble centered, then put the car on the scales, wright down the weights LR,RF and so on. then leave the scales in the same spot but rotate the car so the rear tires are now on the scales that the front tires were on. then compair the results. if the results are way off you will know that your scale system is flawed. tweak in the board, not accurate scales, different height scales, etc.
Hi Paul,
(1) Please define "close". Is it 1%, 10%, or what?
For example, if you have 350gms per scale (4 scales), that would be 3.5gms and 35gms respectively.
(2) Do you try to adjust for the cross tweak (ie: LeftFront+Right Rear, versus RightFront+LeftRear) as opposed to just the rear, and just the front. If so, do you shift the electronics on the car, or add weights, or what?
Cheers
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Old 11-23-2010, 12:48 PM   #647
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Thanks Paul, if you do see your car isn't centered on the tweak station where do you start in order to correct the problem?

I also noticed I built my car and ran it last weekend for the first time. I noticed after a couple of runs my body started dragging. I trimmed it on the sides thinking this is what was dragging. Next time out, it was still dragging I trimmed the front and that fixed the dragging. When I got back home I was checking everything and noticed my ride height had dropped from 5.0 for 4.4 letting me know why the body was dragging but I never thought to check it since we're running carpet and tire wear is really minimal. With this being said I assume my shocks settled in? Is this normal? This is where I plan to start on getting the tweak set back on the car, because I know everything is built equal from the left to the right side.
Hi, Obviously when i build a car i make sure its perfect, on a fresh car i will turn the shocks down equally to get my ride height and the tweak will be almost perfect like that. if the car developes a tweak, i will always check the chassis by putting it on blocks and re set the top deck, if that is not the problem i will check the hinge pins and aluminum suspension mounts and the screws that go threw the plastic roll center arm mounts. if the car is still tweaked i will check the shocks and make sure that the shock towers are still squair to the chassis with a calipers. normally i will start looking for the tweak if my shocks are more than 3/4ths of a turn different from side to side. but surely they should be within 1/2 of a turn when the car is new or freshly rebuilt.


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Originally Posted by RMRCracing View Post
hey Paul

i would like a to get back into sedan racing after a 5 year absense. I was going to MMI at the same time you were. We met a couple times and raced against eachother at SRS. after leaving AZ i moved somewhere that didnt support sedan racing, i.e. no tracks. I just want to know if sedan racing is still popular on the club level at all. the class has appeared to have completely faded away at the amatuer level. I'm moving to denver CO and would like to know if sedan racing would be the right choice. is it dead? i ask you because you get to travel all over the places and probaly have ur finger on the pulse of sedan racing in this country. thanks.
Hi, thanks for chiming in and saying hi. their is onroad in or around the denver area. Ill ask a friend of mine from Denver to PM you and give you the info so you can check it out. hope that you are doing well. see ya!

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Originally Posted by cosmo1974 View Post
Hi Paul,
(1) Please define "close". Is it 1%, 10%, or what?
For example, if you have 350gms per scale (4 scales), that would be 3.5gms and 35gms respectively.
(2) Do you try to adjust for the cross tweak (ie: LeftFront+Right Rear, versus RightFront+LeftRear) as opposed to just the rear, and just the front. If so, do you shift the electronics on the car, or add weights, or what?
Cheers
Hi i would think that it would not be too hard to get iether the front or the rear almost perfect (a couple of grams). i do think that once you get one end of the car perfect from side to side on scales that the other end would be off. all in all i think that you would be doing pretty well if you got the rear within a couple of grams and the front within 10G. i would first ballance the car on pins to get the weight close from side to side, then mess with the shocks on the scales till the RR and LR are close and see where the front is from their. if you have to have Your RR and LR shock more than 1turn different i would try mooving some weight around on the chassis to get it closer.
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Old 11-26-2010, 07:56 PM   #648
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Paul-

What;s the theory behind setting the front hinge pin holders with 2.25mm shimming? This effectively makes the front track width wider than the rear yes? What's the benefit? I see more and more people running it this way.

Also, what are your thoughts on diff height with rubber tires?

Coming back out to timezone anytime before the carpet nats?
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Old 11-30-2010, 08:27 AM   #649
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Paul-

What;s the theory behind setting the front hinge pin holders with 2.25mm shimming? This effectively makes the front track width wider than the rear yes? What's the benefit? I see more and more people running it this way.

Also, what are your thoughts on diff height with rubber tires?

Coming back out to timezone anytime before the carpet nats?

Hi Peter, yes i normally use the 2.25 behind the front pins. I started doing that a couple of years ago just to make the front end more predictible. it does take away a little steering but i feel like the stability that you gain is well worth it.

As for diff height i feel like the higher the diff the more traction the car has, i never run them low, normally i use standard high all the way around and just leave it their.

I felt like my car was really good at cleveland, i will have that set up on the xray site soon.
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Old 11-30-2010, 11:47 AM   #650
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I know this has been asked before but;

How does raising the the camber link an even amount at both ends (so the angle doesn't change) effect the handling. i.e. when using the H1 H2 QRC's it mentioned that another 1mm must be added to the outside to keep the link the same.

Thanks
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Old 11-30-2010, 06:06 PM   #651
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Paul,

When you use the shock collars to adjust fr tweak, do you adjust the collar on the opposite side and opposite end of the car? For example, if the car has too much weight on the RR you reduce the preload on the LF and increase it on the RF to make sure the ride height stays the same on the front of the car?

Also, when lifting the car to check tweak, do you use the tires on the car to look for differences in how fast each side lifts or do you use setup wheels?

Thanks
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Old 12-01-2010, 05:56 AM   #652
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Hi Paul, couple of questions on the t3 11 running the car with l1 and l2 and then changing the whole car to h1 and h2 what effect would this have on the car?

also on carpet running rubbers running the gear diff I find very snappy, do you run this?

Thanks

RC
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Old 12-01-2010, 06:18 AM   #653
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
I know this has been asked before but;

How does raising the the camber link an even amount at both ends (so the angle doesn't change) effect the handling. i.e. when using the H1 H2 QRC's it mentioned that another 1mm must be added to the outside to keep the link the same.

Thanks
Skiddins
I think it makes the car drive a little more stable and a little more roll. if you were to go 1mm outside and inside i dont think that you would notice a big difference but 3 or 4mms and it will definately drive different.

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Paul,

When you use the shock collars to adjust fr tweak, do you adjust the collar on the opposite side and opposite end of the car? For example, if the car has too much weight on the RR you reduce the preload on the LF and increase it on the RF to make sure the ride height stays the same on the front of the car?

Also, when lifting the car to check tweak, do you use the tires on the car to look for differences in how fast each side lifts or do you use setup wheels?

Thanks
Dane
yes i do adjust every collar on the car to tweak it. if the LR needs 1 turn i would much rather turn down the LR and RF 1/4th of a turn and turn out the RR and LF 1/4 than just jack up the LR and not touch any others.

I tewak my cars with tires on it, i will spin the tires to make sure im not on a high spot and take the average if it is. i look first to see if the suspension topps out fairly equal, then i will look to see if the tires are coming off of the table at the same time.

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Originally Posted by prodriver View Post
Hi Paul, couple of questions on the t3 11 running the car with l1 and l2 and then changing the whole car to h1 and h2 what effect would this have on the car?

also on carpet running rubbers running the gear diff I find very snappy, do you run this?

Thanks

RC
the H's will raise the camber link on the tower, if you change nothing more and just simply put them on you should get more steering if you put them in the rear, and you should get less steering if you put them in the front.

Yes the gear diff on carpet can be very hard to drive. try going thicker diff oil, i thought that 2000 was easier to drive than 1000 for sure.

Thanks!
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Old 12-01-2010, 09:42 AM   #654
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Originally Posted by RMRCracing View Post
hey Paul

i would like a to get back into sedan racing after a 5 year absense. I was going to MMI at the same time you were. We met a couple times and raced against eachother at SRS. after leaving AZ i moved somewhere that didnt support sedan racing, i.e. no tracks. I just want to know if sedan racing is still popular on the club level at all. the class has appeared to have completely faded away at the amatuer level. I'm moving to denver CO and would like to know if sedan racing would be the right choice. is it dead? i ask you because you get to travel all over the places and probaly have ur finger on the pulse of sedan racing in this country. thanks.
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Old 12-01-2010, 11:11 AM   #655
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Hi Peter, yes i normally use the 2.25 behind the front pins. I started doing that a couple of years ago just to make the front end more predictible. it does take away a little steering but i feel like the stability that you gain is well worth it.

As for diff height i feel like the higher the diff the more traction the car has, i never run them low, normally i use standard high all the way around and just leave it their.

I felt like my car was really good at cleveland, i will have that set up on the xray site soon.
Do you ever run the 2.25 on Paragon tracks? My club still uses paragon and when I tried the 2.25 my car just pushed like a bus... I went back to the 1.5.

I am guessing since you are making the rounds to all the big races using sticky fingers and jack, instances where the cars always seem to be more edgy, 2.25 is nice and easy to drive. I will for sure give it another try the next time I head to Timezone.

Later!
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Old 12-01-2010, 08:11 PM   #656
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Paul . What do you use to cut your foam bumper ? I like it .
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Old 12-01-2010, 09:16 PM   #657
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Paul . What do you use to cut your foam bumper ? I like it .
He chews it with his teeth. Honest, I've seen him do it!
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Old 12-01-2010, 09:17 PM   #658
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No .
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Old 12-01-2010, 10:37 PM   #659
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is it worth up grading to the t311 thanks
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Old 12-02-2010, 04:57 AM   #660
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Hinpaulbcan I still get parts for my t1fk04 from rc america I love this car thanks
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