R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-09-2010, 12:25 PM   #616
Tech Addict
 
jake95's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: sydney
Posts: 669
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
Cool, no problem.



Hi, it sounds to me like your shocks are pretty thick at 50wt 1hole, I normally use 3hole 700ft and 3hole 550R. I would try that first. after that i would try the 2.25 shimming in the front end (shimming out the front suspension mount holders to 2.25mms). you can also try adding 1mm to the rear camber link on the upright. those are the first things that i would play with on the car. hope it helps, Thanks.



LOL, it is true but it wasnt to prove a point. I was like 14 and just did it to be a dumbass.



Great!


I normally mount mine off the back of the tower, but honestly i dont know what i get by doing it that way. I have never really set out to test it but im sure it does work a bit different.



I have seen this problem before but its pretty hard for me to put my finger on why it happens to some and not to others. I think a lot of it has to do with driving and set up. from what i know of your set up its not crazy, normally more caster does make this happen more, are you running 6deg blocks by any chance. sometimes it just happens also BC of the tire/track. if it is a big problem i would suggest trying a different tire that everyone can agree on that does this less at your track. BC everyone scrambling to figure it out is going to be frustrating and possibly pointless.




Hi Gonzo. Talk Jim at TP and will Help you out with whatever he can do. I would like to ask how you are charging/ running your batterys though, I charge at 5 amps and dump them pretty hard in my mod TC and i have never had a problem with swelling. Thanks





so far i think it works pretty well, it was just different. i cant say that the car had more or less steering or anything. i think that the diff feels like it has less traction but can make smoother lines when driven right.



Hi Jake, It sounds like you are just lacking overall grip. when that happens to me i just try and get rear traction even though it wont help the understeer problem. i would moove weight forward in the car, this will add overall grip, and i would run more rear toe than usual, maybe 3.5deg.
from their i would work on my tires. After you run i would clean the tires with sauce on a rag then sauce like normal. I Hope something sticks, Thanks.
ill try it thanks
__________________
XRAY✯NOSRAM✯SANWA
jake95 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2010, 01:09 PM   #617
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 333
Default

Hi Paul.

I have heard that the WC TC in 2012 wil be take place in Heemstede.
It is my home track and i like to see you life racing and maybe shake hands with you, what ever car you drive at that moment.
I'm really looking forward to this event to see the boy's from the
other side of the planet.

Regards

Ed

The Netherlands
eded1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2010, 01:38 PM   #618
Gravity RC
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Wi
Posts: 1,147
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by eded1 View Post
Hi Paul.

I have heard that the WC TC in 2012 wil be take place in Heemstede.
It is my home track and i like to see you life racing and maybe shake hands with you, what ever car you drive at that moment.
I'm really looking forward to this event to see the boy's from the
other side of the planet.

Regards

Ed

The Netherlands
Oh Cool. I have never spent time in the netherlands before. im sure ill see you their!
Paul L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2010, 02:26 PM   #619
Tech Master
 
Magnet Top's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,932
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Hi Paul,

Can you explain where the wheelbase shims go ? I zoomed in on the enclosed picture so it would be more easily seen.

To me, the shims go in front of the arm since the arrow points there but I've heard a variety of answers so I'm looking to clarify it since it effects ackerman too.

Hopefully future setup sheets will be more clear on this...

( unfortunately the PDF on a Mac shows all three check marked so I photoshopped out the X mark in the zero column ! It might be wrong in the PC version too.... but I cannot check that )

link to the original

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t3_2011

Thanks,

Jake
Attached Thumbnails
Ask Paul Lemieux, RC America/MOTIV/Gravity RC-wheelbase.jpg   Ask Paul Lemieux, RC America/MOTIV/Gravity RC-wheelbase2.jpg  

Last edited by Magnet Top; 11-09-2010 at 03:23 PM. Reason: Wrote axle, meant ARM
Magnet Top is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2010, 02:43 PM   #620
Tech Elite
 
jeff jenkins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 3,920
Trader Rating: 74 (100%+)
Default

hey jake it does point to the center of the axle but it also points to the shim in front of the arm and when you add the shims you are moving both the arm and the center of the axle equally . basically when you have both the boxes with the #1 you have 2mm in front of the suspension arm
jeff jenkins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2010, 02:49 PM   #621
Gravity RC
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Wi
Posts: 1,147
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnet Top View Post
Hi Paul,

Can you explain where the wheelbase shims go ? I zoomed in on the enclosed picture so it would be more easily seen.

To me, the shims go in front of the axel since the arrow points there but I've heard a variety of answers so I'm looking to clarify it since it effects ackerman too.

Hopefully future setup sheets will be more clear on this...

( please disregard that the zero is checked in the zoomed in version ( adding confusion ! ) , for some reason the PDF on a Mac ( possibly PC too ) shows all three checked when it should only show the the one and one )

Thanks,

Jake
Hi Jake, if the front has 2mms checked the front is full short, and if the rear has 3mms checked the rear is full long.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff jenkins View Post
hey jake it does point to the center of the axle but it also points to the shim in front of the arm and when you add the shims you are moving both the arm and the center of the axle equally . basically when you have both the boxes with the #1 you have 2mm in front of the suspension arm
Thanks!
Paul L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2010, 02:52 PM   #622
Tech Master
 
Magnet Top's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,932
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
Hi Jake, if the front has 2mms checked the front is full short, and if the rear has 3mms checked the rear is full long.



Thanks!
thanks guys, I just wanted it clarified so I wouldn't have to debate it any longer. I see it the same way as you do !

Cheers,

Jake
Magnet Top is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2010, 06:46 AM   #623
Tech Elite
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 2,335
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul L View Post

Hi, it sounds to me like your shocks are pretty thick at 50wt 1hole, I normally use 3hole 700ft and 3hole 550R. I would try that first. after that i would try the 2.25 shimming in the front end (shimming out the front suspension mount holders to 2.25mms). you can also try adding 1mm to the rear camber link on the upright. those are the first things that i would play with on the car. hope it helps, Thanks.
Paul - thanks for this. The local hotshots (euro-caliber guys) have found out that these (spec muchmore 32 - h a r d ) tires need to be worked hard load-wise to generate enough heat to then generate grip, and hence all the fast guys run stiff suspensions, but I'll try what you highlighted above next time - thank you very much

Regards,
Paul
__________________
When the flag drops, the BS stops.

The train stops at the train station. The bus stops at the bus station. In my office I have a workstation.
Lonestar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2010, 09:45 AM   #624
Gravity RC
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Wi
Posts: 1,147
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
Paul - thanks for this. The local hotshots (euro-caliber guys) have found out that these (spec muchmore 32 - h a r d ) tires need to be worked hard load-wise to generate enough heat to then generate grip, and hence all the fast guys run stiff suspensions, but I'll try what you highlighted above next time - thank you very much

Regards,
Paul
No problem, the tire/stiff oil thing does make scence. but i would go back and re test it anyways. no problem
Paul L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2010, 06:00 PM   #625
Tech Fanatic
 
jgraham37128's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 778
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default Xray shocks

Paul, what does the foam inserts in the shock actually do? I notice you don't use them?
jgraham37128 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2010, 06:18 AM   #626
Gravity RC
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Wi
Posts: 1,147
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jgraham37128 View Post
Paul, what does the foam inserts in the shock actually do? I notice you don't use them?

Hi, when a bladder shock is compressed the bladder will flex and get pushed up in to the cap, the foam behind it is to keep the bladder from flexing as much. with no foam and a really soft bladder the piston dosent necissarily have to travel threw the oil for the shock to moove, the bladder could be allowing the oil and piston up and down as one. I normally vent my shock caps and normally dont run foam in my shocks. the bladder definately gets worked the hardest that way. i feel like the car is more in the track when i do those things.
Paul L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2010, 06:35 AM   #627
Tech Fanatic
 
jgraham37128's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 778
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default shocks

What does I normally vent my shock caps mean?
jgraham37128 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2010, 07:32 AM   #628
2xs
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 198
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jgraham37128 View Post
What does I normally vent my shock caps mean?
There is a 1mm hole drilled in the shock cap. The way I understand it, is it allows the bladder to flex and to remove rebound from the shock.
2xs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2010, 08:33 PM   #629
Tech Addict
 
jake95's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: sydney
Posts: 669
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

do you run a gear diff if you do what oil running
thanks for your help
__________________
XRAY✯NOSRAM✯SANWA
jake95 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2010, 03:17 AM   #630
Tech Elite
 
Skiddins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Windsor, UK
Posts: 4,580
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jgraham37128 View Post
What does I normally vent my shock caps mean?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2xs View Post
There is a 1mm hole drilled in the shock cap. The way I understand it, is it allows the bladder to flex and to remove rebound from the shock.
It also guarantee's zero rebound
__________________
Xray T4'17, T4'14 (Wet Car)
Xray X12 2017
Xray X1'16
wlrc.co.uk (West London Racing Centre)
RCDisco.co.uk
Skiddins is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Around The Table With Paul Lemieux(RC-America/Thunderpower) Paul L Electric On-Road 1384 12-18-2009 08:06 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:55 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net