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Old 11-08-2010, 07:23 AM   #601
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Paul, I don't have much experience with sway bars and I was wondering if some light bars would be beneficial in the slower VTA class or not? Should I run a softer springs as well? Also any set ups you know of for med carpet would be great. Thanks
Hi, you will just have to try the sway bars. the car will roll less(side to side) with them, the car should have better forward drive with them but sometimes in the 17.5 classes that is not really needed. if you are going to just try some small ones i would not change the springs, if you are going to try bigger bars i would drop a spring rate and see what it will do.

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what's up Paul, just here to say hi! How are things going? I know you're happy this year is almost over, it's been a monster for you.
Hi man. things are good, definately a long year, not over yet LOL.
hope things are good with you.

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Originally Posted by jgraham37128 View Post
Paul, thanks for the help on the ackerman. I have two cars one is a t3 2011 I just built and the other is a T2 009 EU. I noticed on the T3 the outside tire is at 30 degrees and the inside tire is around 20 degrees at full throw. On my T2 09 it's 30 degree on full throw both left and right but the inside on the left is 17 degrees and when I turn it to the right it's 20 degrees. What can I adjust to make both the same on the inside tire?

Thanks,
JG
Hi, i would assume that when your wheels are straight your steering rack (inner ball studs) are not perfectly on center. measure your steering tie rods and see if they are the same legnth or atleast within .5mms to start.
thats really the only thing that it could be unless if something is really tweaked or off.
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Old 11-08-2010, 07:43 AM   #602
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That was is it. off by +3.0 mm.

Thanks,
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Old 11-08-2010, 08:31 AM   #603
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Hi Paul

I would need some advice for my T3 (2010) please. I ran my first onroad race of the season saturday, indoor, tight, (very) technical, rubbers on carpet, 10.5 mill. The car had the full-stock setup with just 50WT oil and 1hole open everywhere (the MM32 tires we run like to be brutalized to finally heat up). The car was great with awesome low-speed cornerspeed, but the rear was a bit of a handful in two of the faster sections - one was a left 90-deg turn right after a chicane (so basically when turning left the car was still recovering from the chicane's last right bend) and the other one was the 90-deg (left) turn right after the (short) straight. Car was straight, symmetric, bind-free, mechanically it was 100% there. (spec) Tires were gooed properly, like the faster guys. I did the 9th time, tq'ed the B, grrrrrr

Where would you first start in terms of setup changes to fix this?

Thank you!

Regards,
Paul
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Old 11-08-2010, 08:40 AM   #604
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Paul, when was the last time you bolted a spare tire to either the trunk or roof of your touring car to prove a point? Is that true or just a rumor?
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Old 11-08-2010, 09:35 AM   #605
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Hi paul, thanks for the clarification. It has really helped
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Old 11-08-2010, 10:32 AM   #606
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Paul: have you tried mounting the body posts to the rear of the rear shock tower instead of the manual setting in front? pros/cons?
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Old 11-08-2010, 10:34 AM   #607
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Paul, we are having problems ripping rubber front tires, mostly blues but also has happened with solaris mediums. Anywhere from 2 to 10 runs and they develop the line on the inside of the tire and then you can't bet they rip in the next 4 runs. I seem to be the best at it, pretty standard front end, parallel links, 2 degress camber, 50wt oil 3 hole, 2.8 or 3.0 springs. Others at the track in 3 different cars also rip tires but not as fast as me. Is there anything we can do setup wise to help this?
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Old 11-08-2010, 03:55 PM   #608
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I figure I should post this on this thread because it has to do with Thunder Power. I have a 1S Thunder Power Lipo battery and some how the voltage dropped below 3.7 and the charger does not wan to charge it. This battery is about 2 months old. I am pretty good with my batteries so It boggles me how this happened. I also have another 1S and 2 2S packs that are swollen and I'm scared to charge them in fear they will explode. I am asking to see if I there is any recourse, as this was a good sum of money I spent. I am in no way bashing Thunder Power as these batteries have been very strong and work very good. They are all I buy.

Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 11-08-2010, 05:37 PM   #609
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Originally Posted by gonzo416 View Post
I figure I should post this on this thread because it has to do with Thunder Power. I have a 1S Thunder Power Lipo battery and some how the voltage dropped below 3.7 and the charger does not wan to charge it. This battery is about 2 months old. I am pretty good with my batteries so It boggles me how this happened. I also have another 1S and 2 2S packs that are swollen and I'm scared to charge them in fear they will explode. I am asking to see if I there is any recourse, as this was a good sum of money I spent. I am in no way bashing Thunder Power as these batteries have been very strong and work very good. They are all I buy.

Any help would be appreciated.
What charger are you using? Is it even too low for the recover function on the thunder power charger?
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Old 11-08-2010, 05:40 PM   #610
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You said it dropped below 3.7, if it's still above 3, make sure your charger is set for a single cell, not a double cell pack. Between 3V and 4.2V shouldn't make any charger hiccup if you have it set up correctly.
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Old 11-08-2010, 09:54 PM   #611
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Hello Gonzo, insted of posting here you should have called Thunder Power direct and ask for tech support. 702.228.8883 Yes you have recourse and we will be more than happy to help you out.
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Old 11-08-2010, 11:21 PM   #612
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I have, i would start at 1,000R and 200,000 F if your going to try it.
What did you think of it over a spool in front? Was it on carpet?
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Old 11-09-2010, 01:34 AM   #613
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hi paul im running an xray t3 10 and it is taily and understeers any advice the track is low grip to
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Old 11-09-2010, 06:12 AM   #614
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Originally Posted by jgraham37128 View Post
That was is it. off by +3.0 mm.

Thanks,
JG
Cool, no problem.

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Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
Hi Paul

I would need some advice for my T3 (2010) please. I ran my first onroad race of the season saturday, indoor, tight, (very) technical, rubbers on carpet, 10.5 mill. The car had the full-stock setup with just 50WT oil and 1hole open everywhere (the MM32 tires we run like to be brutalized to finally heat up). The car was great with awesome low-speed cornerspeed, but the rear was a bit of a handful in two of the faster sections - one was a left 90-deg turn right after a chicane (so basically when turning left the car was still recovering from the chicane's last right bend) and the other one was the 90-deg (left) turn right after the (short) straight. Car was straight, symmetric, bind-free, mechanically it was 100% there. (spec) Tires were gooed properly, like the faster guys. I did the 9th time, tq'ed the B, grrrrrr

Where would you first start in terms of setup changes to fix this?

Thank you!

Regards,
Paul
Hi, it sounds to me like your shocks are pretty thick at 50wt 1hole, I normally use 3hole 700ft and 3hole 550R. I would try that first. after that i would try the 2.25 shimming in the front end (shimming out the front suspension mount holders to 2.25mms). you can also try adding 1mm to the rear camber link on the upright. those are the first things that i would play with on the car. hope it helps, Thanks.

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Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
Paul, when was the last time you bolted a spare tire to either the trunk or roof of your touring car to prove a point? Is that true or just a rumor?
LOL, it is true but it wasnt to prove a point. I was like 14 and just did it to be a dumbass.

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Originally Posted by ronaldo-1234 View Post
Hi paul, thanks for the clarification. It has really helped
Great!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JayL View Post
Paul: have you tried mounting the body posts to the rear of the rear shock tower instead of the manual setting in front? pros/cons?
I normally mount mine off the back of the tower, but honestly i dont know what i get by doing it that way. I have never really set out to test it but im sure it does work a bit different.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HenBeav View Post
Paul, we are having problems ripping rubber front tires, mostly blues but also has happened with solaris mediums. Anywhere from 2 to 10 runs and they develop the line on the inside of the tire and then you can't bet they rip in the next 4 runs. I seem to be the best at it, pretty standard front end, parallel links, 2 degress camber, 50wt oil 3 hole, 2.8 or 3.0 springs. Others at the track in 3 different cars also rip tires but not as fast as me. Is there anything we can do setup wise to help this?
I have seen this problem before but its pretty hard for me to put my finger on why it happens to some and not to others. I think a lot of it has to do with driving and set up. from what i know of your set up its not crazy, normally more caster does make this happen more, are you running 6deg blocks by any chance. sometimes it just happens also BC of the tire/track. if it is a big problem i would suggest trying a different tire that everyone can agree on that does this less at your track. BC everyone scrambling to figure it out is going to be frustrating and possibly pointless.


Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzo416 View Post
I figure I should post this on this thread because it has to do with Thunder Power. I have a 1S Thunder Power Lipo battery and some how the voltage dropped below 3.7 and the charger does not wan to charge it. This battery is about 2 months old. I am pretty good with my batteries so It boggles me how this happened. I also have another 1S and 2 2S packs that are swollen and I'm scared to charge them in fear they will explode. I am asking to see if I there is any recourse, as this was a good sum of money I spent. I am in no way bashing Thunder Power as these batteries have been very strong and work very good. They are all I buy.

Any help would be appreciated.
Hi Gonzo. Talk Jim at TP and will Help you out with whatever he can do. I would like to ask how you are charging/ running your batterys though, I charge at 5 amps and dump them pretty hard in my mod TC and i have never had a problem with swelling. Thanks



Quote:
Originally Posted by peter_robinson View Post
What did you think of it over a spool in front? Was it on carpet?
so far i think it works pretty well, it was just different. i cant say that the car had more or less steering or anything. i think that the diff feels like it has less traction but can make smoother lines when driven right.

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Originally Posted by jake95 View Post
hi paul im running an xray t3 10 and it is taily and understeers any advice the track is low grip to
Hi Jake, It sounds like you are just lacking overall grip. when that happens to me i just try and get rear traction even though it wont help the understeer problem. i would moove weight forward in the car, this will add overall grip, and i would run more rear toe than usual, maybe 3.5deg.
from their i would work on my tires. After you run i would clean the tires with sauce on a rag then sauce like normal. I Hope something sticks, Thanks.
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Old 11-09-2010, 12:08 PM   #615
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Originally Posted by ThunderPowerRC View Post
Hello Gonzo, insted of posting here you should have called Thunder Power direct and ask for tech support. 702.228.8883 Yes you have recourse and we will be more than happy to help you out.
Thanks for the info. I appreciate it.

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Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
Hi Gonzo. Talk Jim at TP and will Help you out with whatever he can do. I would like to ask how you are charging/ running your batterys though, I charge at 5 amps and dump them pretty hard in my mod TC and i have never had a problem with swelling. Thanks.
I charge @ 5 amps and we run 5 minute quals and main. I will be calling them. Thanks
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