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Old 11-02-2010, 02:49 AM   #586
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Hi Paul,

I found the culprit, or at least one of them with my terminal understeer. It turned out to be over tightening of the top deck screws. Now the car turns in better and is better on power too.

There still seems to be a factor I am missing though. After a race meeting I attended on the weekend it seems that the biggest influence on the handling of the car is how the car is prepped from the time the kit is first assembled to the first time the car is put on the track, not the setup on the car.

I have also noticed on many occasions that a track changes alot from a club meeting to a major event. The biggest problem my friend and I ,and probably 99% of people, are having is the changed track conditions influence this unknown factor of the car and setup changes have no effect. I have had my car understeering at one event and oversteering at another and not one setup change has had an effect on the car. I also tend to think that some people fluke the unknown factor and that is why there car is handling better in changing conditions. But then I could be wrong.......

Just a bit of food for thought, hopefully I can do enough testing over the next few months to figure the mystery out Failing that, whats your hourly rate for you to prep my car and give it a test run
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Old 11-02-2010, 08:52 AM   #587
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Originally Posted by HarryLeach View Post
Always more than one way to skin a cat, thanks for the feedback.
no problem!

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Originally Posted by ronaldo-1234 View Post
Hi Paul,

Do you have any setups for T3 EU Rubber on Asphalt (Hot climate areas like Thailand) ? How would you change the setup as the track temperature rises and falls?
Hi. out of all the set ups that i have had for sure my 2010 reedy race set up was the easiest on tires, In hot conditions it is very important to have a car that turns really well and does not Kill the front tires. normally this means that the set up must roll a good bit to not work the front tires too hard but also has really good steering. lastly once you achieve a car that does so you have to drive super smooth and really try to not slip a tire, especially on corner entry.
That was definately the key to me being competitive on asphat at a few races this year. as for specifics on set ups i dont really have anything that i would do different for super hot weather. i dont really get to test a ton under those conditions. the hotter it is the smoother you must drive.

hope that helps.

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Originally Posted by dontfeelcold View Post
Hi Paul,

I found the culprit, or at least one of them with my terminal understeer. It turned out to be over tightening of the top deck screws. Now the car turns in better and is better on power too.

There still seems to be a factor I am missing though. After a race meeting I attended on the weekend it seems that the biggest influence on the handling of the car is how the car is prepped from the time the kit is first assembled to the first time the car is put on the track, not the setup on the car.

I have also noticed on many occasions that a track changes alot from a club meeting to a major event. The biggest problem my friend and I ,and probably 99% of people, are having is the changed track conditions influence this unknown factor of the car and setup changes have no effect. I have had my car understeering at one event and oversteering at another and not one setup change has had an effect on the car. I also tend to think that some people fluke the unknown factor and that is why there car is handling better in changing conditions. But then I could be wrong.......

Just a bit of food for thought, hopefully I can do enough testing over the next few months to figure the mystery out Failing that, whats your hourly rate for you to prep my car and give it a test run
Wow, i totally agree that for some tracks the "normal" set up changes dont really effect the overall result of the car atall, as the things that you wouldnt think of might. Thanks for the info.
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Old 11-02-2010, 05:54 PM   #588
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What is your favorite servo to run in your car? Thanks for the help.
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Old 11-02-2010, 08:41 PM   #589
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Hello Paul lites on,
Kevin here where r u running now days? Scotty went to dirt correct? If he runs 1/8 e lmk
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Old 11-02-2010, 11:31 PM   #590
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I run my T3 2010, currently in the 17.5 non boosted class. I run my FDR from 3.8 to 4.4 on two tracks. Ive noticed halfway through a qualifier if I'm running a low FDR, the car seems slower. The temp of the motor off the track is < 150deg, and the RS has never had more than 2 LED's light up.

What could it be? Could it be the motor? Battery?
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Old 11-02-2010, 11:47 PM   #591
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Default Clarification on Ackermann

Thanks PauL for the write up on hot weather set-ups.

I have nv used ackermann as a tuning tool bcoZ i dun uds the concept behind it. I tried reading up on it last nite but I am still clueless on the final effects.

Ackermann is the angle difference btw the inner and outer wheel at full lock. Greater Ackermann means more angle difference between the inner and outer wheel implying that the inner wheel will travel less (@ slower speed) and outer wheel will travel more (@ faster speed). Thus, can i presume that it give the car better rotation (bcoZ it pivots abt inner wheel) around the corner and also more initial steering?

how does ackermann affect initial steering, steering thru mid corner and exit?

On the older T3, what ackermann position (servo post, Servo saver & steering block) will u use for a Medium sized track than have only 1 high speed corner, 2 medium speed, and 4 hairpins??

I noticed most of ur steering post at #2, but the kit manual uses #1. What is the rationale behind this?

Sorry if i'm asking too many qns. Really lost on this topic.
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Old 11-03-2010, 01:01 AM   #592
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Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
Wow, i totally agree that for some tracks the "normal" set up changes dont really effect the overall result of the car atall, as the things that you wouldnt think of might. Thanks for the info.
It was interesting to note at a race meeting I attended on the weekend, I and most others had this issue. One guy who is normally fast also had this issue until one of the qualifiers his car all of a sudden had excellent steering and TQ'ed that round and placed second overall. He gained about 0.5sec on his best lap. I overheard from his Dad that he changed the diff before that run.
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Old 11-04-2010, 09:12 AM   #593
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What is your favorite servo to run in your car? Thanks for the help.
for the T32011 i have found that i like the Futaba 9351, its a bigger servo and ballances the car nicer with the servo boing tucked in so far. for the T3 i like the BLS 551.

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Hello Paul lites on,
Kevin here where r u running now days? Scotty went to dirt correct? If he runs 1/8 e lmk
Hi Kevin, good to hear from you. I run at Harbor hobbies now. its not too far away. i think scotty is doing electric 8th scale

Quote:
Originally Posted by R3VoLuTiOn View Post
I run my T3 2010, currently in the 17.5 non boosted class. I run my FDR from 3.8 to 4.4 on two tracks. Ive noticed halfway through a qualifier if I'm running a low FDR, the car seems slower. The temp of the motor off the track is < 150deg, and the RS has never had more than 2 LED's light up.

What could it be? Could it be the motor? Battery?
It is normal to have some tail threwout the run but it sounds like maybe yours is worse than it could be. First i would try would try a new Rotor, it is possible that the rotor gets weak even at lower temps, secondly i would try a different battery and lastly the speedo.
it could be any of these.
but make sure that your not chasing it if it is a normal amount of tail. last time i ran 17.5 non boosted i was able to run .1 to .2sec faster the first portion of the race than at the end.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ronaldo-1234 View Post
Thanks PauL for the write up on hot weather set-ups.

I have nv used ackermann as a tuning tool bcoZ i dun uds the concept behind it. I tried reading up on it last nite but I am still clueless on the final effects.

Ackermann is the angle difference btw the inner and outer wheel at full lock. Greater Ackermann means more angle difference between the inner and outer wheel implying that the inner wheel will travel less (@ slower speed) and outer wheel will travel more (@ faster speed). Thus, can i presume that it give the car better rotation (bcoZ it pivots abt inner wheel) around the corner and also more initial steering?

how does ackermann affect initial steering, steering thru mid corner and exit?

On the older T3, what ackermann position (servo post, Servo saver & steering block) will u use for a Medium sized track than have only 1 high speed corner, 2 medium speed, and 4 hairpins??

I noticed most of ur steering post at #2, but the kit manual uses #1. What is the rationale behind this?

Sorry if i'm asking too many qns. Really lost on this topic.
No problem. for me the less ackermann i use (tires more paralell) the more steering i normally have, especially on power.
their is such a thing as perfect ackermann for a single given corner, the radious which the inside tire must make is shorter and sharper than the radious that the outside tire must make, this is why ackermann is applied any car. normally for carpet i will take ackermann away untill the car is loose off the corner for me then go back 1 incroment in the other direction.

On asphalt we worry about overheating the front tires so much that i take a different approach, with a spool in the front on asphalt the tires fight eachother so much threw the corner ( the tires are not able to diff and adjust for the distance that one tire must travel in compairison to the other in a given corner) so ackermann must be used properly to keep the tires from fighting eachother and heating up as much as possible. so on asphalt i will normally try and use more ackermann (more difference in angle of the tires while turning), that is if i can get the car to have as much steering as i need.

I always use full lock steering throw, so my inside tire never changes, at full lock the inside tire always turns around 30deg, so all that i am changing with ackermann is where i want my outside tire to be, roughly between 17 to 20 deg at full lock depending on the setting.

In the end its not all that complicated, for me if i need more steering i use less ackermann (tires more paralell) if i need the car to drive easier i use more ackermann (tires less paralell).

Quote:
Originally Posted by dontfeelcold View Post
It was interesting to note at a race meeting I attended on the weekend, I and most others had this issue. One guy who is normally fast also had this issue until one of the qualifiers his car all of a sudden had excellent steering and TQ'ed that round and placed second overall. He gained about 0.5sec on his best lap. I overheard from his Dad that he changed the diff before that run.
For sure With Ball diffs it is very important to have a perfect diff, the car will drive easier and carry more corner speed. Thanks
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Old 11-04-2010, 01:10 PM   #594
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Paul, I noticed you said you use a larger servo on the T32011 since it's tucked so far in the chassis. My question is how do you balance your car when building it? How do you know it's more balanced with a larger servo versus the low profile?

Thanks,
JG
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Old 11-04-2010, 08:08 PM   #595
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Paul, I noticed you said you use a larger servo on the T32011 since it's tucked so far in the chassis. My question is how do you balance your car when building it? How do you know it's more balanced with a larger servo versus the low profile?

Thanks,
JG
Hi, i know roughly what a section of the battery wieghs on the other side, with the servo being tucked in so far it just ballances better with the bigger servo. I ballance my car with the hudy pins from side to side. normally if i add lead it is across from the motor, and with a bigger servo or weight by the servo.

The left rear (motor) and right front (battery across from servo and reciever) are normally heavy on TC's even if they ballance well overall on pins. This is all static weight, nothing to do with cross weights for tweak.

no problem. Paul
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Old 11-07-2010, 06:27 AM   #596
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Paul,

Have you messed with running gear diffs front and rear? If so, what oil have you tried?
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Old 11-07-2010, 05:34 PM   #597
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Paul,

Have you messed with running gear diffs front and rear? If so, what oil have you tried?
I have, i would start at 1,000R and 200,000 F if your going to try it.
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Old 11-08-2010, 04:06 AM   #598
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Paul, I don't have much experience with sway bars and I was wondering if some light bars would be beneficial in the slower VTA class or not? Should I run a softer springs as well? Also any set ups you know of for med carpet would be great. Thanks
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Old 11-08-2010, 05:50 AM   #599
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what's up Paul, just here to say hi! How are things going? I know you're happy this year is almost over, it's been a monster for you.
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Old 11-08-2010, 06:24 AM   #600
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Default Ackerman

Paul, thanks for the help on the ackerman. I have two cars one is a t3 2011 I just built and the other is a T2 009 EU. I noticed on the T3 the outside tire is at 30 degrees and the inside tire is around 20 degrees at full throw. On my T2 09 it's 30 degree on full throw both left and right but the inside on the left is 17 degrees and when I turn it to the right it's 20 degrees. What can I adjust to make both the same on the inside tire?

Thanks,
JG
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