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Old 06-16-2010, 07:07 PM   #376
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Hello Paul,
2010 is well underway of being a great year for you. All the hard work from such a great spirited guy is really paying off. Two down - two to go. Give them hell in Porter, TX and on to Germany for 1/10 Electric Worlds.

One quick question... Do you run the stock plastic outdrives in MOD or the aluminum outdrives with the blades? Can you also explain your choice.

Stop by Jackson, NJ track to get some MOD practice with me before you go oversees.

Thanks
- Randy
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Old 06-16-2010, 07:52 PM   #377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamB&B View Post
Hello Paul,
2010 is well underway of being a great year for you. All the hard work from such a great spirited guy is really paying off. Two down - two to go. Give them hell in Porter, TX and on to Germany for 1/10 Electric Worlds.

One quick question... Do you run the stock plastic outdrives in MOD or the aluminum outdrives with the blades? Can you also explain your choice.

Stop by Jackson, NJ track to get some MOD practice with me before you go oversees.

Thanks
- Randy
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Old 06-17-2010, 04:02 PM   #378
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Hi all, sorry about the delay, i have just been thrashing on WC stuff and had the gas nats last week also.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jammincrtjames View Post
Hey Paul,

2 questions regarding your set-up

- What does having 3mm shims under the shock do for handling?
- What does running the foam in the shock bladder do or not do for the shock?

I currently run 1mm under the shock and do not run the foam under the bladder.

Nice win at Reedy!
Hi, I just shimm the shocks iether on the tower or the arm just to get the shock verticle, with the long front wheelbase i run 2.5mms behind the shock to compinsate.
As for the Foam im not 100% sure what it does on the track, in theory it keeps the bladder from colapsing as much threw the stroke and increases rebound a little, i will run without the foam then sometimes with it. now im back to running the foam but i still build my shocks pretty dead.


Thanks!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Sharpe View Post
Paul, do you drive with your mouth open to prevent thermal-ing your brain?

Congrats on the Reedy win!
Exactly, thanks for not going with the obvious rip on that one, LOL.

Thanks.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Hey Paul, I have a ? for you. On my T3 I had a slight toe in difference in the rear, after a lot of re-adjusting of the pivot block I got it close to the same from side to side, I ended up having to put a .001 shim between the lower roll center holder and the bulkhead to make the sides equal.

Once everything was setup I tried my car on the garage floor(very slippery) and when rolling really slow the car looked like it was walking (or rocking) from side to side, like one side was trying to catch up to the other side and then vice versa. Yet when the car is on carpet or something with traction I don't see that oscilation effect. (not sure if the car did this prior to the shim) But now i'm wondering if the shim is enough that it has changed the wheel base of the car from side to side and this is the cause of the problem, or do all cars do this as a reflection of being 4 wheel drive and running rear toe in?

Also congrats on the Reedy win.

Thanks
Hi, .1mm sounds miniscule to me. I have run my car before with much more on one side than the other and have not had a major problem. i wouldnt worry about it atall. i bet what you find on low bite has more to do with the diffs being off center as it is with all cars.
you should be good to go. Thanks



Quote:
Originally Posted by ERTRACHTER View Post
Hey Paul I didn't want to bug you I wanted you to win man! I was very happy with my car I think it was the best handling car Ive ever had on asphalt!
Cool, good job!.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkBrown View Post
Hey Paul, congratulations on the big win. You had a lot of people pulling for you!

I heard that Rheinhard's mechanic set up three cars for every practice run so he could try more setups. Sounds like a pretty big advantage for him, and still you overcame it. Wow.

On your setup sheet it says ESC program 1 -- is that real? You run with the current limiter set to "low" like for 2WD offroad? Is that typical for TC with a 4T motor? Also it looks like you ran quite a bit of ballast beyond what you'd need for 1420 grams -- is that also typical for a big mod motor?

Did you run the one-piece holder for the front of the rear suspension pins?

For the front inner camber link mount, did you have to dremel on the shock tower mount for the ballcup to clear? If you had time to post a photo that might help. Cheers!
Hi, Thanks!

I did run all the 1 pece suspension mounts on the car. to make 1425 i had to run quite a bit of leas also. for the speedo i almost always run the softest setting, with lipo their is a ton of power, if i ran punch 4 or something i would just spin the tires more. and i did have to dreamel the tower mount to let the ball cup clear. Thanks



Quote:
Originally Posted by eded1 View Post
Hi, Paul.

I've read your set-up and have a question.
How did you find ? this solution of the front upper camber link.
Did you mis steer or give this more steering.
Strange solution, it worked for you ygm.
Again congrats with your big win, I know you have to fight for it.

Ed
Hi Ed, Thanks!. i have been running this link for quite a while now, it just makes the car drive right for me, i feel that it gives steering without making the car super hard to drive. see ya.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xray09ACT View Post
Paul,
Congrats on the reedy win.
can you please explain a little on why you changed the layout of the top roll centres/ camber adjustments.
Cheers
I basicly did it because i wanted a super long camber link but didnt want to give up any camber gain, this is why it is shimmed high on the caster block.
Thats about it but i normally use this front link.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Cribbin View Post
Hi Paul,

Im running my t3 with the set up below, and it oversteers on power. Not just a little bit, but absolutely diabolical. I can move the ackermann back and it helps slightly, but it then has a tiny push. Other than that it steers really nicely. Any suggestions as to what to try?

thanks

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...=1593&setup=t3

I would try narrower front hexes and a longer rear wheelbase by 1mm. both of these should help the car on power and the hexs should keep the entry corner steering. Good luck.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dane View Post
Hi Paul,

Can you explain your opinion of Ackerman? Specifically running the tab in the front versus the rear.

Also, this weekend I found that shortening the front links gave the car a lot more corner speed. In my mind, it should have reduced the front traction because the car is rolling less. We are running on a low traction parking lot track.

Could you please explain why I picked up so much more corner speed? The car is in the upper outer position with 1 mm of shim on the hub and 2 degrees of camber. The rear is the lower inner position with 1 mm shim and 2 degrees of camber.

Thanks!
Hi, for the ackermann i always like the post being forward. basicly the less ackermann you have the less the outside wheel turns (loaded tire) this is why the car will have more exit steering with less ackerman, that being said if you dont run lock to lock steering and just adjust the ackermann but measure the outside tire degree and keep that the same i think that you will have a totally different result. so its relly how its applied more than anything.

as for the camber link im not sure, im assuming that the car wanted two things, 1 to roll less which a shorter link will do and 2 being more camber gain and it just worked so thats good.



Quote:
Originally Posted by kghills View Post
Good run at the Fuel nationals Paul. Good luck at the worlds. We will be cheering you on.

Keith and Jason.
Thanks Guys.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Way2Evl View Post
Hi Paul,

Congradulations on your victory at the Reedy Race .

I have one quick question. What made you decide to you the "H" (hard) c block & steering arms? Often people will say this is for carpet but I have begun to see more and more people use it with asphault racing. What does this do for you? Thanks in advance for your reply.

Honestly im not sure, I have tested it before and thought that the hards gave more corner speed but i have felt the opposite at other tracks also. i dont know that anyone really knows how much caster blocks flex or in what way even.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Radar2819 View Post
Hey Paul,

Just wondering where your going to practice now that Scotty decided to change the on road track to dirt?
Ill practice wherever i can, definately winthrope harbor more, but i do a lot of traveling so i think i will beable to stay sharp.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Victor Vector View Post
Wow, has Paulie got GAS !! Congrats on yer Nats win Matey...

You popping over for the Portland Debauch in early Sept 3/4/5 ??

Jacko
Hi Jack, good to hear from you. Thanks man. im not sure on the race yet. ill do some planning for other races after both worlds are over at the end of next month. See ya

Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamB&B View Post
Hello Paul,
2010 is well underway of being a great year for you. All the hard work from such a great spirited guy is really paying off. Two down - two to go. Give them hell in Porter, TX and on to Germany for 1/10 Electric Worlds.

One quick question... Do you run the stock plastic outdrives in MOD or the aluminum outdrives with the blades? Can you also explain your choice.

Stop by Jackson, NJ track to get some MOD practice with me before you go oversees.

Thanks
- Randy
Hi Randy, Thanks! I use the aluminum outdrives with the blades for two reasons, 1 being that the plastic ones can break, especially with 50mm dog bones and the other being that in mod they can wear that little indent in the inside very quickly. i do think that the plastics work slightly better with out the blades but i in mod i would replace them a lot.

I wont have any time to come over their to practice BC i leave in a week and have a TON to prepair still, but id love to if i could.

see ya soon!
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Old 06-17-2010, 06:24 PM   #379
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Default Paul is it true that Xray is woking on some upcoming design...

changes? Have you tested the new touring car?
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Old 06-19-2010, 02:47 AM   #380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
I would try narrower front hexes and a longer rear wheelbase by 1mm. both of these should help the car on power and the hexs should keep the entry corner steering. Good luck.
many thanks mate, gave it a go last night and the car was great. cheers mate
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Old 06-20-2010, 06:54 PM   #381
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Default Thunder Power Balancing Question

I have just picked up some Thunder Power 5200 50c and am using Team Orion Clubman Lipo Edition chargers.

I am looking to get info on a balance adapter that plugs directly into my charger and into the battery. I am trying to bypass the balance board type adapters


What is the balance plug on the TPs called?

Thanks for any input and feel free to PM me.

Paul also feel free to join us at Fantasy World for the 26th annual Summer Sizzler!!!!

www.fantasyworldracing.com

Thanks,
Kyle
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Old 06-20-2010, 07:06 PM   #382
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Anyone notice that on Pauls set up sheet he had the belts ran on the left side instead of the right. Was this a typo or did he do this on purpose? Paul, could you explain why you did this if it was done on purpose?
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Old 06-21-2010, 03:50 PM   #383
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Default ohhh great 13 twooo



Paul I think this thing owes you a pint of blood.....long live the Jinkin
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Old 06-21-2010, 10:41 PM   #384
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Paulie, Rob King is at it again! LMAO. Oh the good old days!

Best of luck at the world's! Bring it to them!
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Old 06-23-2010, 05:07 PM   #385
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Hey Paul,

why arent you in Germany yet??

a small question, i've been looking at your set-ups (thanks for the link) and saw that you run the speed 6 withe DNA's body!! why is that??

cheers

Ali
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Old 06-23-2010, 05:32 PM   #386
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Default hello paul

i have been trying to figure out witch is the best low profile servo to get ?
i would like to know what kind you would use in a low profile, because my kopro does not want to track straight and i can not do anything to get it to go straight. any help would be appreciated thanks

ciao !!!!!
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Old 06-23-2010, 06:00 PM   #387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Way2Evl View Post
Anyone notice that on Pauls set up sheet he had the belts ran on the left side instead of the right. Was this a typo or did he do this on purpose? Paul, could you explain why you did this if it was done on purpose?
Here's my guess, for what it is worth:

When running an SXX you can't really shove it under the deck (too tall with heatsink and fan on top) so running the belt to the right doesn't help much with balance (only thing that moves is the receiver and it is light).

On the other hand, if you run the belt on the left you have space between the belt and the lipo that you can use for ballast, and the ballast ends up slightly to the right of center which is more helpful to balance the car than if it were slightly to the left.
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Old 06-23-2010, 08:07 PM   #388
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Paul,

How's the married life treating you? Been looking for your NT1 setup sheets with no luck...do you still post them on the XRay site?

-Dorian
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Old 06-29-2010, 09:15 PM   #389
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paul - nice run w/ the XII at the Worlds! i suspect people will want your setup . i'd be interested to hear how you think the traction at this year's Worlds track compared to other larger US indoor racers - like IIC or Birds.

good luck in TC..
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Old 06-30-2010, 10:04 AM   #390
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Hi Paul,

Nice run at the 1/12th Worlds. I saw one picture of your car and you where running a Pulse based motor, just wondering what you ended up running, base and wind?

Good Luck in TC.
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