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Old 01-17-2014, 02:29 PM   #2611
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I hope I'm not speaking out of turn, but I think I have some info that might help in addition to what PL said. If you don't mind sharing the track surface, size and sauce used we might be able to direct you even better.

A. I don't know what tires you're using, but I have had success mounting brand new VTA tires on a powerful truer and then saucing each tire on the truer before you turn it on. Then put a little sauce on a 100% cotton rag. Wipe the tire down as well as you can before you start the truer. Be sure your cutter won't advance into the tire, you just want it spinning. Run the tire away from you and hold the sauced part of the rag on the tire. You want to get heat and sauce into the tire without stalling the truer. The tire will heat to 300*+ in a matter of seconds so be careful. Go through each tire this way and after a session let each tire cool down. 3-4 cycles of this will break the tires in beautifully.

B. I don't know what weight your GT runs at, but you may have problems with the same set up if it is drastically different than the 1550 for USVTA. The heavier oil and springs that make a VTA car work, may not allow the lighter GT car to work right.

C. In addition to the type of body, I would check to see that the GT body isn't rubbing. Different bodies and tires may require different post heights, which might allow the tire to rub under load.
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Old 01-19-2014, 11:51 PM   #2612
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just curious why i rarely see anyone using graphite battery strap.
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Old 01-20-2014, 06:14 AM   #2613
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Hello Paul I been dying slowly I need to race again I bought a boat,vette,chopper a few houses and still unhappy hope I still have my spot on the team LMK Kevin Bottoms
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Old 01-20-2014, 06:49 AM   #2614
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Originally Posted by ToysRUsKid View Post
just curious why i rarely see anyone using graphite battery strap.
I've heard it can tweak the chassis.
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Old 01-20-2014, 09:09 AM   #2615
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Best comment I heard about the graphite battery strap...

"Why would I want an extra top deck in my car?"
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Old 01-20-2014, 04:55 PM   #2616
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Has anyone had to shim the motor out from the mount to prevent the pinion or rotor? (not sure what to call the piece the pinion is on) from rubbing the battery? I couldn't get a centered mesh with the pinion/spur either until I put 1mm shims between the motor and the mount. Very possible I'm doing something wrong.
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Old 01-20-2014, 05:14 PM   #2617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToysRUsKid View Post
Has anyone had to shim the motor out from the mount to prevent the pinion or rotor? (not sure what to call the piece the pinion is on) from rubbing the battery? I couldn't get a centered mesh with the pinion/spur either until I put 1mm shims between the motor and the mount. Very possible I'm doing something wrong.
I found that the brand of pinion makes a difference. I use CRC and no longer have this issue.
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Old 01-20-2014, 09:14 PM   #2618
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I would probably use soft/soft for Eclipse and med/soft up by us.
Been a while Eric but I appreciate the help. Sorry I haven't made it up to the track this season.

As a quick follow up, I have found a decent setup at Eclipse with soft rears and med fronts. Starts really well and finishes good just a touch loose at the end. I think with a bit more work (read: Practice) I'll be OK with this down here.
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:26 PM   #2619
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToysRUsKid View Post
Has anyone had to shim the motor out from the mount to prevent the pinion or rotor? (not sure what to call the piece the pinion is on) from rubbing the battery? I couldn't get a centered mesh with the pinion/spur either until I put 1mm shims between the motor and the mount. Very possible I'm doing something wrong.
Check the spacing on the sensor side of motor. If you shim the rotor to about 1 mm from the closest hall sensor, you might move the rotor far enough into the can to get the clearance you need.
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Old 01-22-2014, 09:19 PM   #2620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
Glad it worked well!. No Their is nothing more. When i say starting point its just where i would start on almost any given track. From that their will be variables which may need some extra tuning to get perfect. Variables that will make a difference from one driver to another might be. Driving style, speedo, car , track layout, grip level, tire size, air temp etc etc. So one set up is never perfect for everyone. But i try and get my "starting points" to be as universal as possible.

Thanks!
I picked up a new 17.5 TP and added a the green rotor for 12th scale. Got a good "starting point" on gearing? I usually run a 42.5mm rear tire to start the day.
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Old 01-23-2014, 08:11 AM   #2621
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToysRUsKid View Post
just curious why i rarely see anyone using graphite battery strap.
I personally don't use it because i just hate bolting anything to a car that is not necessary to the function of the car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking View Post
Hello Paul I been dying slowly I need to race again I bought a boat,vette,chopper a few houses and still unhappy hope I still have my spot on the team LMK Kevin Bottoms
LOL, thanks for teh call!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fladust View Post
I've heard it can tweak the chassis.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Meradin View Post
Best comment I heard about the graphite battery strap...

"Why would I want an extra top deck in my car?"
LOL. Im sure that if the graphite system were shimmed and fastened properly it would not tweak or make the chassis stiffer. If tape pisses you off then its a good option.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ToysRUsKid View Post
Has anyone had to shim the motor out from the mount to prevent the pinion or rotor? (not sure what to call the piece the pinion is on) from rubbing the battery? I couldn't get a centered mesh with the pinion/spur either until I put 1mm shims between the motor and the mount. Very possible I'm doing something wrong.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1AGOFST View Post
I found that the brand of pinion makes a difference. I use CRC and no longer have this issue.
Its always been a tight fit for me too, some motors do have longer shafts than others. I wouldn't be against cutting the motor shaft some if that is the issue. Also the pinion as stated. Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy Carter View Post
Been a while Eric but I appreciate the help. Sorry I haven't made it up to the track this season.

As a quick follow up, I have found a decent setup at Eclipse with soft rears and med fronts. Starts really well and finishes good just a touch loose at the end. I think with a bit more work (read: Practice) I'll be OK with this down here.
Cool! Its possible that more bite in the track could cure that. Otherwise maybe a softer side spring with saucing a bit more front tire could help. (softer side spring for more rear grip, A touch more front sauce to keep the steering you are used to up front)


Quote:
Originally Posted by ToysRUsKid View Post
I picked up a new 17.5 TP and added a the green rotor for 12th scale. Got a good "starting point" on gearing? I usually run a 42.5mm rear tire to start the day.
Honestly i don't. Gonna need some help on this one for sure. sorry
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Old 01-23-2014, 08:31 AM   #2622
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congratulations paul whit your deal with hobbywing
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Old 01-23-2014, 10:54 AM   #2623
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congratulations paul whit your deal with hobbywing
I guess it's a good thing both of my ESC's are Hobbywing
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Old 01-23-2014, 11:43 AM   #2624
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XRay Car, TP Motor, HW ESC, Futaba electronics, Gravity Fan...

I think I'm Paul Lemieux

Wait...gotta work on my driving...
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Old 01-23-2014, 01:58 PM   #2625
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congratulations paul whit your deal with hobbywing
Congrats Paul for extending with Xray and congrats with the Hobbywing deal.
Some persons deserve it to be a teamdriver.
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