Originally Posted by Skiddins
Yep, just use a pdf editor to fill it in then save it, and add it on here as an attachment.
This does appear to be something that Xray have missed (for the first time)
There was no editable sheet available for download and nowhere on the setups section of the Xray site for the new car
Sorry I slacked on this, been super busy and I dont know how to edit a PDF but i will iether figure it out
or xray will beat me to it on their site.
Originally Posted by chasingthepack
re:iic,Paul,i was watching the live stream and i thought you were stuck in 3rd,that was a great pass on the last lap,nice one good luck in the future,hope to see you win a race soon
Thanks. I got a little lucky as Alex bobbled but none the less i was really happy to run as well as i did first time driving the car.
Originally Posted by JimmyMac
Just curious, has anyone tried to use a shock air bubble pump to remove air bubbles for gear diff builds like the 2.5m Gravity RC fluid?
I have never tried it but for me the best method is patience.
Originally Posted by Troy Carter
I ran some practice with my 1/12 for the first time last week using your G12 tires, soft rears and hard fronts. To me, the car was very good but it was really the first time I've driven a 1/12 since the one race I did back in 1997-ish so maybe I'm a bit off. I did chunk them up pretty well but that's totally my fault. I used your new LGC and ran them straight out of the package without any issue.
So, now that I've got a few packs on them the fronts are starting to wear from the camber. Is there a reasonably priced truer you would suggest and how often would you cut these to keep them straight?
Hi. Im Glad that you are liking the tires! The Hudy truers are the best for sure but they are an investment, Ofna makes some truers in the 130-200$ range. Personally I would make friends with someone that has a hudy
Originally Posted by JimmyMac
I tried the shock tool and it just made the whole diff fluid lift up out of the diff housing hehe. I think low vacuum would work to get the big bubble started then just let it naturally float up without the vacuum. I did see that video before. That's why I ordered the 2.5m stuff. Great video!
Ahh, i could see that happening with the pump, good input. Thanks
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Since we're talking about it, here's a low cost (7.99 plus shipping) solution for those interested in trying.
Works for shocks too. Just drill some holes in a motor spray cap and set it inside the container... I bought two and it creates plenty of vacuum and holds it well.
Thanks A dub
Originally Posted by Satwe
I have some questions about additive.
How many kinds of additive do you have, which one do you like most?
Can you explain these features, how do you choose from them?
Thank you very much.
I forgot telling you that I wanted to know the additeve about touring car.
Briefly, LG1 is for rubber asphalt off road and rubber dirt oval. For rubber asphalt most clean with LG1 and sauce lightly with LG2.
LG2 is for rubber and foam tire asphalt, foam dirt oval and majorly grooved off road (slicks).
LGC is for anything carpet.
The three compounds cover almost every situation.
Here is the instruction/application sheet that comes with the additives.
SUGGESTED ADDITIVE METHODS FOR (LG1-S, LG2, LGC) LG1-S: aggressive penetrating additive. LG2: non aggressive additive which conditions rubber and foam. LGC: Low odor carpet additive for foam and rubber tires.
RUBER TIRE ASPHALT: LG2 is best suited for used rubber tires. A used rubber tire’s pores are already open, which means that the penetrating nature of LG1 may not be necessary. LG2 has a higher oil content and will help used tires run more like new tires. A very small amount (rubbed in) is recommended for 10-20 min saucing, Air dry and run. A slightly thicker coating (rubbed in) is suggested for 20-40 min saucing, let air dry and run. For possible better results try cleaning the used tire with LG1-S on a rag¸ then apply LG2 as suggested. Performance decreases when too much additive is used and it can allow the tire to get greasy. A few dabs on a tire, rubbed in will go a long way.
CARPET RUBBER TIRE: For best results Clean with LGC after your run, then sauce 5 min before your next run, wipe off and drive.
CARPET FOAM TIRE: For best results Apply LGC 15-20 min before the run, wipe off well with a rag before running.
OFF ROAD: In situations where additives are used LG1-S is a great rubber softener and oil additive. For best results first clean the tires, then dip or spray on a tooth brush, brush the additive to the tire, let sit for 10-15 min before running (it will air dry). If the track is really grooved up LG2 is an option, very little dirt will build up on the tire if LG2 is used, apply for 20 min, wipe off or let dry completely. As a long term conditioner LG2 will work very well also.
DIRT OVAL RUBBER TIRE (GROOVED TRACK): If the track is grooved enough to where the dust is not a problem LG2 will have great results. Recommended to apply a very small amount and let air dry or wipe off before running.
DIRT OVAL RUBBER TIRE (DUSTY TRACK): LG1 is best suited for normal dusty dirt tracks, spray on tire and let sit for 15-20 min before running.
DIRT OVAL, FOAM TIRE: LG2 is a great Foam tire conditioner, Apply well before running and rub in, Let dry or wipe well before running.
ASPHALT FOAM TIRE: Apply LG2 to the tires and rub in, Let dry or wipe and run. Air drying will take a long time when applied thick, thick application not necessary, wipe off before running.
Originally Posted by outlandr91
Hi Paul, I have a question about the sway bars on my T3 2012. With the shocks disconnected I can lift the left front arm almost all the way up until the right front arm moves. When I lift the right front arm up about a 1/4 inch the left arm moves up. The linkage that connects the bar to the arms are equal lenght and the bar doesn't seem bound, what can I do to get the arms to move equally?
Thanks for your time.
Hi. that is something that i would like to do a video on someday BC it is rally hard to explain.
But yes your sway bar is not tweaked correctly. First you have to make sure that your droop is perfect, since we are checking the sway bar using each sides droop as a bottom we need to make sure that your cars droop is correct. so your droop is perfect and you have removed your shocks to lift up and check the effectiveness of each side. in your case the left front moves way more before the bar engages the right side, this means that you will want to make the left link longer and or the right one shorter until it feels equal. You can also try flipping the bar if it is way off.
for fine tuning the tweak of the sway bar you can rotate the set screw of the aluminum sway bar collar on the sway bar (set screw pointing up or down), rotating the set screw down will essentially make the link longer as it will offset the bar inside the collar acting as a cam.
Hope that helped some