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Old 09-02-2013, 12:23 AM   #2401
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hi paul,i have an issue i hope you can help with,when reassembling my car (t4)and setting it all up,i found that the front right shock needs 1 whole turn more on the collar than the left yet the rears are exactly the same amount of turns to get the ride hieght right,an ideas why this might be,ive looked all over and cant find anything wrong with the shocks or the chassis?shocks are all equal lengths
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Old 09-02-2013, 06:34 AM   #2402
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hi paul,i have an issue i hope you can help with,when reassembling my car (t4)and setting it all up,i found that the front right shock needs 1 whole turn more on the collar than the left yet the rears are exactly the same amount of turns to get the ride hieght right,an ideas why this might be,ive looked all over and cant find anything wrong with the shocks or the chassis?shocks are all equal lengths
Hi. First i want to say that it is worth looking at but if you look threw all the major things that could cause it and it still sits a bit off, I wouldn't worry about it. I rarely race a car that is perfectly flat. allowable tolerance for me is .2mm's. Here are some things that i would check, no real order of importance here.

First check the balance to make sure that the chassis is balanced left and right.

Second i would crack the shock towers loose and be aware of the effects that torquing all 4 screws "same direction" could have (I could easily make the shock tower sit .2mms off level if i don"t tighten it properly), if you want to go crazy with this you could set the chassis on the table and measure with the back of your calipers pit board to each ear of the tower, but again I wouldnt go to crazy.

Third i would make sure your shocks have fairly euqal drag on the seal, if a seal has a lot more drag it could keep the car down .1 or .2mms easily after squatting it on the board. this is even more common with the softer spring set ups.

Possibly replace all your suspension mount screws (long ones), and check for slight bend in the sus mount also.

Lastly I would loosen up all the screws and re set all the bulkheads and not over tighten anything and check again.


All this being said, your main concern is that the tweak and cross weights is proper. I would rather race a car which that is proper and sits .4mms low on one side than race a car that is perfect flat but tweaked.

Hope this helps. Thanks!
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Old 09-02-2013, 08:16 AM   #2403
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Hey Paul,

Planning on releasing a kit screw for the the AE 1/12 car ?

thanks
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Old 09-02-2013, 08:20 AM   #2404
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Hey Paul,

Planning on releasing a kit screw for the the AE 1/12 car ?

thanks
HI Kev. yea i will eventually. Im still waiting on a couple of the important sizes to be finished up.

Thanks!
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:32 AM   #2405
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Will you be packing some gravity rc stuff fans and other things that rc racers can't live without and you know we are in Vegas and people have money
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Old 09-02-2013, 10:10 AM   #2406
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Will you be packing some gravity rc stuff fans and other things that rc racers can't live without and you know we are in Vegas and people have money
Ill prolly bring some stuff for the hobbyshop to sell, Good lookin out
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Old 09-02-2013, 10:31 AM   #2407
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Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
Hi. First i want to say that it is worth looking at but if you look threw all the major things that could cause it and it still sits a bit off, I wouldn't worry about it. I rarely race a car that is perfectly flat. allowable tolerance for me is .2mm's. Here are some things that i would check, no real order of importance here.

First check the balance to make sure that the chassis is balanced left and right.

Second i would crack the shock towers loose and be aware of the effects that torquing all 4 screws "same direction" could have (I could easily make the shock tower sit .2mms off level if i don"t tighten it properly), if you want to go crazy with this you could set the chassis on the table and measure with the back of your calipers pit board to each ear of the tower, but again I wouldnt go to crazy.

Third i would make sure your shocks have fairly euqal drag on the seal, if a seal has a lot more drag it could keep the car down .1 or .2mms easily after squatting it on the board. this is even more common with the softer spring set ups.

Possibly replace all your suspension mount screws (long ones), and check for slight bend in the sus mount also.

Lastly I would loosen up all the screws and re set all the bulkheads and not over tighten anything and check again.


All this being said, your main concern is that the tweak and cross weights is proper. I would rather race a car which that is proper and sits .4mms low on one side than race a car that is perfect flat but tweaked.

Hope this helps. Thanks!
thanks Paul,i wasnt to bothered with it just curious to know if there was a fix,thanks for your time,Rich
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Old 09-03-2013, 03:23 PM   #2408
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Thanks for the reply Paul. One more question for ya. Graphite arms vs Plastic arms, whats the difference? Thanks Chad
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Old 09-03-2013, 05:11 PM   #2409
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Thanks for the reply Paul. One more question for ya. Graphite arms vs Plastic arms, whats the difference? Thanks Chad
+1. I'm specifically wondering about carpet.

-Mike
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Old 09-04-2013, 02:10 PM   #2410
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Paul,
I have been thinking about this for awhile now and have been curious. Have you ever thought about putting on a one day seminar about chassis set up and how to drive a better line when racing with others? These types of seminars happen all the time with full scale racing and thought a great professional like yourself could benefit from it.
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Old 09-04-2013, 02:58 PM   #2411
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+1. I'm specifically wondering about carpet.

-Mike
Mike you know the answer....lol
Isn't just the carpet, Mike ,it is the traction grip level as well...
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:58 PM   #2412
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I'm looking around at the different options for 1/12th tires for the IIC. How have the Gravity 1/12th tires been working at events like this? Which compounds would be the right ones to get for 13.5? Are they off-set like Jaco rims, CRC, or something else entirely?

Thanks

Last edited by InspGadgt; 09-04-2013 at 10:00 PM.
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:15 PM   #2413
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Paul, will our current front diffs drop right in on the 2014 car?
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Old 09-06-2013, 06:31 AM   #2414
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Originally Posted by Tekin Prodigy View Post
Thanks for the reply Paul. One more question for ya. Graphite arms vs Plastic arms, whats the difference? Thanks Chad
That's a really hard question and one that i cant answer with certainty. I like the graphite arms on the rear for sure, I feel like the car normally has a touch more steering, but on the front i have been puzzled for a while because i have had various results. I assume that the results depend on caster flex with softer and stiffer arms and what the car/tire wants on any given track.

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Paul,
I have been thinking about this for awhile now and have been curious. Have you ever thought about putting on a one day seminar about chassis set up and how to drive a better line when racing with others? These types of seminars happen all the time with full scale racing and thought a great professional like yourself could benefit from it.
I have had a few people mention something like this over the years and i think it could be pretty fun. But in the end i dont know that my Ego could take it if nobody showed, LOL!!



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Mike you know the answer....lol
Isn't just the carpet, Mike ,it is the traction grip level as well...
Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
I'm looking around at the different options for 1/12th tires for the IIC. How have the Gravity 1/12th tires been working at events like this? Which compounds would be the right ones to get for 13.5? Are they off-set like Jaco rims, CRC, or something else entirely?

Thanks
Hi. Obviously i have been running the Gravity Tires for a while now. I think they are good, surely they have a lot of grip. In Mod I use soft/soft. for 17.5 i would recommend soft rear with hard front. Hard is not really that hard though, Its just on the hard side of what actually works well. S,M,H are all with in 5 points on a durometer. the offset is closest to CRC with the front wheel accepting non flange bearings, this gives a extra tuning option that i like a lot. Ill be their so if you need advice on any tire, come see me
See you their!

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Paul, will our current front diffs drop right in on the 2014 car?
Yes, 99.99% sure
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Old 09-10-2013, 01:31 PM   #2415
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OK Paulie . I'm back , BTW the rear toe ony usgt car was the issue with tires .. Tks for ur info
Now to my most recent findings . this problem is with my 17.5tc .
Clean tires with 2 runs on them even wear on all 4. Dopeing them 5min before run with STX.
Burnout as it hits the track , run 2 warmup laps to get some heat in the tires . 1min pause till we get to run (sometimes more) 2nd lap in car feels great , as i expect it to feel anyways .
10laps in car begins to push and doesnt rotate as smooth thru the turn (as if rear traction has doubled) . seems to stay this way all the way till end . I've temped the tires and they r 105 on outside front (sweeper I'm guessing) and all others r 95 deg . any ideas without going into set up 2 deep? BTW its a T4
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