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Old 06-01-2013, 08:45 AM   #2266
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Originally Posted by HBRC-LBD View Post
Thanks Paul,

The 7.7 ratio you gave me to start with a 5.5 motor, does this mean the pinion has to rotate 7.7 times to one revolution of wheels?

Sorry I'm getting confused with this haha

Cheers Kevin
Yup, for TC we only use FDR "final drive ratio". Spur divided by pinion times the cars internal belt and pully ratio. "roll out" is more used in pan car classes as tire diameter is a variable that needs to be accounted for.

So in my X-ray I would start with 114/28, and X-ray internal drive is 1.9.
114 % 28 x 1.9 =7.7

The internal drive is the determined by dividing the diff pully by the drive pully.
For X-ray 38 diff pully divided by 20 drive pully =1.9.
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Old 06-01-2013, 08:55 AM   #2267
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Hi Paul....I hope everything worked out with your hood lol
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Old 06-01-2013, 10:02 AM   #2268
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hi paul

white een tp 4.5t what for ratio do you use for a large and small track

greetings peter
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Old 06-02-2013, 12:37 AM   #2269
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Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
Yup, for TC we only use FDR "final drive ratio". Spur divided by pinion times the cars internal belt and pully ratio. "roll out" is more used in pan car classes as tire diameter is a variable that needs to be accounted for.

So in my X-ray I would start with 114/28, and X-ray internal drive is 1.9.
114 % 28 x 1.9 =7.7

The internal drive is the determined by dividing the diff pully by the drive pully.
For X-ray 38 diff pully divided by 20 drive pully =1.9.
Thanks Paul, but I am running 1/12th

Sorry for the confusion, what gearing or roll out would you recommend for a 5.5?

Plus would I use the same settings on my LRP as you recommended ?

Thank you for your time I really appreciate it!

Cheers Kevin
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Old 06-03-2013, 08:47 AM   #2270
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Originally Posted by dpatterson26 View Post
Hi Paul....I hope everything worked out with your hood lol
yea, no problem as of yet.

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Originally Posted by peter. View Post
hi paul

white een tp 4.5t what for ratio do you use for a large and small track

greetings peter
Hi Peter, I use similar gear ratios for both large and small tracks, I will simply apply more timing to the motor and speedo for large tracks. 8.3 is where i run my 4.5T's at.

Thanks!

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Originally Posted by HBRC-LBD View Post
Thanks Paul, but I am running 1/12th

Sorry for the confusion, what gearing or roll out would you recommend for a 5.5?

Plus would I use the same settings on my LRP as you recommended ?

Thank you for your time I really appreciate it!

Cheers Kevin
Hi Kevin. Sorry, I must have missed something. throw away any advice that i have given you then, lol. for boosted mod 12th i dont feel the need to calculate roll out. with the speed adjustability of the speedo i am never worried about the super fine tuning of gearing VS tire size.

That said it is important that you are in the ball park, assuming that you are running a normal size rear tire (carpet) 42-44mm i would start at 96/28 or 29 for a gear, 30deg timing. flow settings 3,1,0,7,6,3,0. see how it feels their, with 12th scale its pretty hard to overheat this speedo and impossible to overheat the motor so wick it up or motor up if needed.

Thanks
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Old 06-03-2013, 03:35 PM   #2271
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hello paul

do you run your belts tighter with modified than with stock

and thanks for all the advice
helped me a lot

greetings peter

Last edited by peter.; 06-04-2013 at 07:13 AM.
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Old 06-03-2013, 04:01 PM   #2272
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hello paul

do have you whit modified your strings tighter than with stock

and thanks for all the advice
helped me a lot

greetings peter
I don't think he will understand your question
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Old 06-03-2013, 04:28 PM   #2273
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I don't think he will understand your question
I think he is asking if Paul runs his belts tighter in mod than in stock setup.
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Old 06-03-2013, 04:42 PM   #2274
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Paul, I see a lot of fast guys backing off on motors in Mod Sedan....like 5.0's and 5.5 instead of 4.5 and lower. I heard Ralph was running a 7.5 at the Nats.

I imagine they are smoother in the infield and you can run more boost to get speed on the straight. What are you running now-a-days?
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Old 06-03-2013, 04:42 PM   #2275
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Paul, I see a lot of fast guys backing off on motors in Mod Sedan....like 5.0's and 5.5 instead of 4.5 and lower. I heard Ralph was running a 7.5 at the Nats.

I imagine they are smoother in the infield and you can run more boost to get speed on the straight. What are you running now-a-days?
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Old 06-04-2013, 03:00 AM   #2276
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Hi Kevin. Sorry, I must have missed something. throw away any advice that i have given you then, lol. for boosted mod 12th i dont feel the need to calculate roll out. with the speed adjustability of the speedo i am never worried about the super fine tuning of gearing VS tire size.

That said it is important that you are in the ball park, assuming that you are running a normal size rear tire (carpet) 42-44mm i would start at 96/28 or 29 for a gear, 30deg timing. flow settings 3,1,0,7,6,3,0. see how it feels their, with 12th scale its pretty hard to overheat this speedo and impossible to overheat the motor so wick it up or motor up if needed.

Thanks
Thanks again Paul

Thats awesome info Now that I've got ESC and gearing sorted Could you help me with a base setup for the X12. I race on low/med traction asphalt. We don't use traction additives in New Zealand the tyres I'm using at the moment are Jaco purple fronts and Jaco pink rears. I've tried kit setup and it is very hard to drive. I assume it would work on higher traction tracks. I just would like to be pointed in the right direction by someone that has got alot of experience like yourself!

Cheers Kevin
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Old 06-04-2013, 10:26 AM   #2277
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hello paul

do you run your belts tighter with modified than with stock

and thanks for all the advice
helped me a lot

greetings peter
Hi Peter. I do not adjust the tension of the belts based off of efficiency. Obviously i would never run the belt Super loose or Super tight but i will run the belts on the loose med or tight side of things for handling purposes.
I assume that with the ever changing speed and load of the drive train their is no perfect setting for efficiency across the board so i generally tune the belt tension for handling purposes only. I normally run the front belt on the tight side and the rear belt on the loose side. I feel like with the rear belt being so much shorter it can have the tendency to apply a more abrupt load to the rear tires than the front. making the front belt tight and rear belt loose seems to help with this. I also think that the car might turn in harder with the front belt tight and rear loose.

Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
Paul, I see a lot of fast guys backing off on motors in Mod Sedan....like 5.0's and 5.5 instead of 4.5 and lower. I heard Ralph was running a 7.5 at the Nats.

I imagine they are smoother in the infield and you can run more boost to get speed on the straight. What are you running now-a-days?
I still normally use a 4.0 or 4.5. surely though you can get the top speed out of the milder winds with boost and have it be smoother on the bottom. A 7.5 would likely be too slow for any straight over 150ft though. I think ralph ran a 5.5 at nats but im not sure. so far a 4.5 is the most popular wind in mod TC, but that could change.

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Originally Posted by HBRC-LBD View Post
Thanks again Paul

Thats awesome info Now that I've got ESC and gearing sorted Could you help me with a base setup for the X12. I race on low/med traction asphalt. We don't use traction additives in New Zealand the tyres I'm using at the moment are Jaco purple fronts and Jaco pink rears. I've tried kit setup and it is very hard to drive. I assume it would work on higher traction tracks. I just would like to be pointed in the right direction by someone that has got alot of experience like yourself!

Cheers Kevin
Hi Kevin, No problem. I have not raced 12th on asphalt in many many years and never without additive, so i wouldnt put too much faith in my advice. but here it is lol.
since the conditions are so different i wont have a true set up for you but sometimes its not as much about the set up as it is the little tricks, here are a few key things could help you if you have not already done so.

First off i would polish the front king pins and lube them with 5K silicone, make sure that you have a little droop in the front end, maybe .3mms, so when you lift the front end off the table you should see the spring de compress slightly.
I would also polish the side link balls, the best way that i have found is to find a old turnbuckle and thread the ball all the way on to one end then chuck the other end in a dremel and polish. I would also try the associated center pivot socket, this will lower your center pivot and likely provide you with more rear stability. I would also try the rear end pretty narrow, maybe 165mm if possible. lastly i would run the new protoform TR12 body and rake it 2mms higher in the rear than you would say is normal, or roughly rear most part of the body at 71mms off the ground (chassis flat on the table, No tires).
These are the first things that i would try, hopefully the car is then atleast easy to drive.

Good luck!
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Old 06-04-2013, 01:06 PM   #2278
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Hi Kevin, No problem. I have not raced 12th on asphalt in many many years and never without additive, so i wouldnt put too much faith in my advice. but here it is lol.
since the conditions are so different i wont have a true set up for you but sometimes its not as much about the set up as it is the little tricks, here are a few key things could help you if you have not already done so.

First off i would polish the front king pins and lube them with 5K silicone, make sure that you have a little droop in the front end, maybe .3mms, so when you lift the front end off the table you should see the spring de compress slightly.
I would also polish the side link balls, the best way that i have found is to find a old turnbuckle and thread the ball all the way on to one end then chuck the other end in a dremel and polish. I would also try the associated center pivot socket, this will lower your center pivot and likely provide you with more rear stability. I would also try the rear end pretty narrow, maybe 165mm if possible. lastly i would run the new protoform TR12 body and rake it 2mms higher in the rear than you would say is normal, or roughly rear most part of the body at 71mms off the ground (chassis flat on the table, No tires).
These are the first things that i would try, hopefully the car is then atleast easy to drive.

Good luck!
Thanks again Paul, I will give it a try and let you know how I go

Cheers Kev
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:20 PM   #2279
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Hello Paul,
I first want to say thank you for such great information.
My question is a motor issue on asphalt modified tc.
I am running a xray T4. with a Reedy 5.0 on a asphalt track about 175 ft. straight. It is a flowing because it is mostly for 8th scale. I thought the traction was very good but it was my first time racing asphalt (mostly run carpet).
My question is it normal for a mod motor temps. to reach 160F deg. with fan? My motor (reedy) is set at factory setting of 19 deg.
my gearing is at 8.02 with very little esc advance.

I feel like I have very little room for esc adjustments with the temps so high.
By the way my esc (Orca) temp is around 130 deg.
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Old 06-10-2013, 07:32 PM   #2280
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Hello Paul,
I first want to say thank you for such great information.
My question is a motor issue on asphalt modified tc.
I am running a xray T4. with a Reedy 5.0 on a asphalt track about 175 ft. straight. It is a flowing because it is mostly for 8th scale. I thought the traction was very good but it was my first time racing asphalt (mostly run carpet).
My question is it normal for a mod motor temps. to reach 160F deg. with fan? My motor (reedy) is set at factory setting of 19 deg.
my gearing is at 8.02 with very little esc advance.

I feel like I have very little room for esc adjustments with the temps so high.
By the way my esc (Orca) temp is around 130 deg.
I'm sure Paul will chime in here but I do think that is very normal for mod TC. We see 180°+ fairly often on a 200ft straight.
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