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Old 05-30-2013, 09:16 PM   #2251
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Not that loose, it wiggles a little when the motor is apart. When assembled it stays in place. I was told by someone that if the solder tabs are loose the motor was overheated and in my case never was and its also the fastest motor I have (with my revtech very close but its new and haven't really played with gearing) but when I want to have power and speed I use the TP W/blue rotor.
Sorry, I'm running a T4
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:19 PM   #2252
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Not that loose, it wiggles a little when the motor is apart. When assembled it stays in place. I was told by someone that if the solder tabs are loose the motor was overheated and in my case never was and its also the fastest motor I have (with my revtech very close but its new and haven't really played with gearing) but when I want to have power and speed I use the TP W/blue rotor.
Sorry, I'm running a T4
17.5
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Old 05-31-2013, 01:52 AM   #2253
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Originally Posted by JOE SI View Post
Not that loose, it wiggles a little when the motor is apart. When assembled it stays in place. I was told by someone that if the solder tabs are loose the motor was overheated and in my case never was and its also the fastest motor I have (with my revtech very close but its new and haven't really played with gearing) but when I want to have power and speed I use the TP W/blue rotor.
Sorry, I'm running a T4
Mines a little loose as well, but only when apart, so I just left it. If it looks like the stator can move slightly in the can (which mine had) I put a second fibre glass gasket in it.
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Old 05-31-2013, 02:38 AM   #2254
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Mines a little loose as well, but only when apart, so I just left it. If it looks like the stator can move slightly in the can (which mine had) I put a second fibre glass gasket in it.
Not the stator, the solder "A" solder tab. The motor is still fast as any other motor I have or race against. Just wanted to see if its common for them to come loose. Also happened on a friends revtech
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Old 05-31-2013, 02:49 AM   #2255
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Not the stator, the solder "A" solder tab. The motor is still fast as any other motor I have or race against. Just wanted to see if its common for them to come loose. Also happened on a friends revtech
Sorry, when I said 'mines a little loose' I was referring to the solder tabs.

The stator turned out to be what was making my motor sound a bit noisy, I'd had it apart and not found any problems and even replaced the bearings as I thought they might be causing the noise.

Just something to check if any problems arise.
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Old 05-31-2013, 03:26 AM   #2256
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Thanks again Paul,

What is the easiest way to measure final ratio on a 1/12th?

Can you post a pic of how you have mounted a fan on your motor please?

Cheers Kevin
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Old 05-31-2013, 04:03 AM   #2257
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Sorry, when I said 'mines a little loose' I was referring to the solder tabs.

The stator turned out to be what was making my motor sound a bit noisy, I'd had it apart and not found any problems and even replaced the bearings as I thought they might be causing the noise.

Just something to check if any problems arise.
Thanks brother
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Old 05-31-2013, 09:50 AM   #2258
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Ok Paul when you, were at Jeff's after the Nartionals you talked about front diffs. I'm curious if you have any special processes at building front diff using 2.5m and how full you should fill it.
Hi. The best and most consistent way that i have found is to have the planetary gear in the bottom of the diff case then fill the syringe with approx 10mms of fluid, then tamp the fluid down with the plunger of the syringe, then i will push the spider gears threw the fluid, then re tamp the fluid down over the spider gears, add more fluid if necessary to ensure its full. let sit for a few minutes and put it together. a little fluid should bleed out the screws to let u know its 100% full.

Thanks

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Originally Posted by JOE SI View Post
Not that loose, it wiggles a little when the motor is apart. When assembled it stays in place. I was told by someone that if the solder tabs are loose the motor was overheated and in my case never was and its also the fastest motor I have (with my revtech very close but its new and haven't really played with gearing) but when I want to have power and speed I use the TP W/blue rotor.
Sorry, I'm running a T4
Cool, If it is not loose when assembled i wouldn't worry about it. The solder tabs just lay in the plastic stator cap and should secure it self good enough when its assembled.

Good luck!


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Thanks again Paul,

What is the easiest way to measure final ratio on a 1/12th?

Can you post a pic of how you have mounted a fan on your motor please?

Cheers Kevin
The proper way to measure a 12th scale gear ratio is with "roll out" but I never do that. in 17.5 i could see it being critical. "Roll out" is how many inches or mm's the car will travel with one revolution of the motor. To calculate roll out you first take your tire size and times it by pie (record it), you then divide the pinion by the spur, lets say 40t pinion 96 spur (record it) then you divide your tire size number by the gear number.

Lets assume that i have a 45mm tire geared 96/40.

45mm rear tire, 45 X pie (3.14) = 141.3, This tells you that one revolution of your tire will drive your car 141.3mms.

96 spur divided by a 40tooth pinion = a 2.40 ratio, this tells you that for your tire to travel one revolution your motor will have to travel 2.4 revolutions.

lastly you divide your 141.3 by your 2.40, =58.87, so in one revolution of the motor your car will travel 58.87mms. this is your roll out.

hope that makes scene, lol.
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Old 05-31-2013, 11:02 AM   #2259
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hi paul

when will thunder power come out with new lipo's over 6000mah


greetings peter
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Old 05-31-2013, 11:09 AM   #2260
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hi paul

when will thunder power come out with new lipo's over 6000mah


greetings peter
Hi Peter. Im honestly not sure on that. the 6000 that i have cycles over 6000 MHR but im not sure when a higher rated MHR battery will come out. For me 6000 is already overkill on run time.

Thanks
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Old 05-31-2013, 11:27 AM   #2261
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Hi Peter. Im honestly not sure on that. the 6000 that i have cycles over 6000 MHR but im not sure when a higher rated MHR battery will come out. For me 6000 is already overkill on run time.

Thanks
I dumped in 17.5 Great seeing you again bro. Wish I had more time to hang with ya but the total heat count was pretty low and didn't leave too much time to BS. Maybe I'll see you when Xray releases their new 2wd buggy
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Old 05-31-2013, 11:57 AM   #2262
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Hey Paul, You put a 2mm shim under the shock in your Reedy setup...... Do you put it only on the top or the top and bottom??..... Some say it smoothens out the car, why the shim there??..... Any other reason??...... Thanks!
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Old 05-31-2013, 12:28 PM   #2263
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I dumped in 17.5 Great seeing you again bro. Wish I had more time to hang with ya but the total heat count was pretty low and didn't leave too much time to BS. Maybe I'll see you when Xray releases their new 2wd buggy
Lol, you did you try and run the whole event on the same charge.

Yea, was a bit crazy. well make sure to go out next time!


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Hey Paul, You put a 2mm shim under the shock in your Reedy setup...... Do you put it only on the top or the top and bottom??..... Some say it smoothens out the car, why the shim there??..... Any other reason??...... Thanks!
The purpose of the shimming of the shocks is just to make it so the shock is straight up and down. with the mid wheelbase in the front you need to shim the top out 2mm, no shimms on the bottom. in my set up i actually shim the bottom of the rear shocks out 2mm as well to make the rear shocks vertical. On the set up sheet their is not a space for the lower shock shimming. so if i chancge my wheelbase i would adjust my shock shimming to always keep the shock vertical.

Thanks
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Old 05-31-2013, 12:37 PM   #2264
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IC..... Thanks Paul!
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Old 05-31-2013, 01:07 PM   #2265
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Thanks Paul,

The 7.7 ratio you gave me to start with a 5.5 motor, does this mean the pinion has to rotate 7.7 times to one revolution of wheels?

Sorry I'm getting confused with this haha

Cheers Kevin
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