Paul L

I would leave the rear for now, i would first try thicker in the front. if the traction is med to high grip then going to 2k cst in the rear could help but i kinda think your problem is more likely to be in the front diff.

Sorry, fixed.

TAMAK

iTrader: (29)

Hey Paul,
What servos do you use on your NT1? Thanks

Paul L

Hi. for the throttle i normally use the Futaba S9351, for the steering i normally use the short case S9551.

Thanks

LasagnaCat

iTrader: (161)

Dental pick

MattW

Paul - what motor setup did you run at the worlds (or the warmup) last year? Rotor / gearing etc etc.
cheers Matt

Xpress

iTrader: (3)

Hey Paul, any news on the Gravity Ti screws?

Paul L

Hi Matt. I used a 4.5T with the included purple rotor, 20deg timing, 8.1 gearing. 20deg boost timing and 20deg turbo timing. Thanks

I have some Kits and screws availible. At first I will be selling only the screws direct at a discounted price. [email protected]
Thanks

MattW

Cheers Paul, is that with HW speedo??

Been trying TP 4.5 on and off for the last few test days i've done, and so far, a bit too much heat, not quote as much power as what I've used before - more work required. Need to try a different speedo.

B00t13g

iTrader: (9)

How do you personally detweak your chassis?

Paul L

At the worlds i did use a hobbywing speedo and that is the general set up that i used. i would apply those timing settings to any speedo to start though. as for the heat make sure that your motor timing is no lower than 15deg and no higher than 20deg, this is where the motor will run its coolest. also if you were trying any optional rotors i would revert to the stock one with these settings. Thanks

First i make sure that I have all electronics and weight in the car (race ready but with no tires) then i put the chassis on droop blocks, i will then turn the blocks by reaching my pinkie fingers under the chassis, as the blocks turns you will be able to feel its pivot point which will tell you where and how severe the tweak is. If adjustment is necessary i will then loosen all the top deck screws one by one and just snug them (only tight enough to hold its tweak), then i will put the car back on the blocks and lightly twist it by hand until the blocks will turn with iether no recognizable pivot point or it pivots directly in the center which means you are getting absolute Even pressure from the chassis all the way across the droop block.
Then i tighten each screw one by one going over the top deck two or three times. and you should be good. This is the only way that i have found to get the chassis tweak absolutely perfect, and its not that hard once you get the feel for it.

Thanks

B00t13g

iTrader: (9)

That makes sense, ill give that a shot! Have you found the lower chassis screws to hold any real tweak, or are you able to just tighten them up and go for lack of a better word? Thank you for all your help!

MattW

Cheers Paul.

It's unlikely that I'll try a HW speedo for a variety of reasons, but will probably try LRP at some point.

Paul L

[QUOTE=B00t13g;12013006]That makes sense, ill give that a shot! Have you found the lower chassis screws to hold any real tweak, or are you able to just tighten them up and go for lack of a better word? Thank you for all your help![/QUOTe

Yup. I will only loosen the lower screws if it is tweaked more than normal.

yup, Im running the flow in my car right now and really liking it, i am just am yet to run it on a really big track

defcone

iTrader: (15)

[QUOTE=Paul L;12013251]With thunderpower motors?

B00t13g

iTrader: (9)

Thanks Paul, much appreciated!