R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-14-2012, 06:18 PM   #1966
Tech Elite
 
defcone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Sydney
Posts: 2,338
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

What did 6 deg. caster blocks do?
defcone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 09:58 AM   #1967
Tech Master
 
Csaari77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 1,494
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

I just got a new TP 820cd and I'm having issues getting it to charge a 1s lipo. It keeps giving me a "check battery connection" error. I've tried multiple batteries and connections and it gives the same error every time. It has the latest firmware already. Any suggestions?
__________________
Half-A$$ Racing - Problem solved, problem staying solved!
Awesomatix - Serpent - Tekin - Futaba - Cooper Motorsports.

Last edited by Csaari77; 12-15-2012 at 10:09 AM.
Csaari77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 10:44 AM   #1968
Tech Adept
 
ThunderPowerRC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 100
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Csaari77 View Post
I just got a new TP 820cd and I'm having issues getting it to charge a 1s lipo. It keeps giving me a "check battery connection" error. I've tried multiple batteries and connections and it gives the same error every time. It has the latest firmware already. Any suggestions?
It is most likely looking for a connection through the balance port. Turn the balance off under settings mode. You can also make a balance wire that connects to your charge leads. This will give you a more accurate charge.
ThunderPowerRC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2012, 02:09 PM   #1969
Tech Master
 
Csaari77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 1,494
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderPowerRC View Post
It is most likely looking for a connection through the balance port. Turn the balance off under settings mode. You can also make a balance wire that connects to your charge leads. This will give you a more accurate charge.
That did it. Thanks!
__________________
Half-A$$ Racing - Problem solved, problem staying solved!
Awesomatix - Serpent - Tekin - Futaba - Cooper Motorsports.
Csaari77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2012, 09:08 AM   #1970
Gravity RC
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Wi
Posts: 1,147
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jlfx car audio View Post
Tell me what it means when ur tires r squealing . I my self seem to run faster when my tires r screeching coming out of the corners . But the fastest guy here (on carpet) said its scrubbing corner speed . And his car is dead silent... can u comment about a this tks paul
Hi. Ill take the squeal anyday. some set ups will squeal more and it also has a lot to do with tire prep. i would bet money that with brand new tires your car would not squeal on carpet, then after some normal wear and your saucing routene they will start to squeal. as long as the car is handling well i wouldnt worry about it at all. normally i am faster when my tires squeal.

Thanks



Quote:
Originally Posted by PROMODVETTE View Post
Speaking of loose is fast...

I'm running a T3'12 in VTA. I like that is is loose, but in the later minutes of the main it gets a little too loose to the point it does slow. I need to tighten up the rear just a little. What kind of change could I make to just tighten it a little?
If the car is getting loose only at the end of the run i would pick one of many set up changes that will make the car push a bit more, then i would sauce the front tires more aggressive (either sauce more of the front tire or if already full front, sauce the fronts longer). in making a set up change for less steering then saucing more front tire you should get about the same handling that you like now at the begining of the run, but then at the end of the run when it would normally get loose you should retain the stability with the set up change.
Possible set up changes: less front camber, more rear camber, more rear toe, move weight forward. also shorter front wheelbase, but compinsate with steering links for the ackermann change. example: 1mm shorter front wheelbase, take out 1mm shims from your steering bell crank.

Good luck!


Quote:
Originally Posted by GTempleton View Post
Hello Paul , I'm looking for a diff for the front end of my car do you know where I can get one... Part number if you have possible. Congrats on you recent finish... Thank you, George Templeton
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xpress View Post
Gear diff # 304900
Thanks for the help1

Quote:
Originally Posted by defcone View Post
What did 6 deg. caster blocks do?
In a nut shell, it gives more steering. the disadvantage is that the car will have less forward traction and stability coming out of the corner.
Paul L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2012, 02:58 PM   #1971
Tech Elite
 
DesertRat's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sniffin the 'Sauce Fumes
Posts: 2,649
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Paul, do you use a lot of drag brake in mod 1/12 scale to slow the car for the corners or is it more in the chassis setup and tire choice?
__________________
I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
Current rides: Diggity DC4 Chassis #10. Losi JRX-S Type R. CRC Xi (retired), CRC Altered Ego Aluminum Chassis. Associated B4 based dirt oval late model.
WTB: Carpet racing in Arizona.
DesertRat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2012, 07:35 AM   #1972
Gravity RC
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Wi
Posts: 1,147
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
Paul, do you use a lot of drag brake in mod 1/12 scale to slow the car for the corners or is it more in the chassis setup and tire choice?
Hi. Currently I do not run drag brake, but honestly with as fast as the cars keep going it may become or already be nessissary.
As you said tire choice is key for me on this subject now, normally i will use a soft front tire, this way you can kinda charge a corner and slow the car down with the soft front rubber. i dont know how to explain it well but i feel like a soft front tire is less edgy to begin with, this allows me to use more wheel throw entering a corner to help slow it down, you can almost slide the front end in and slow it down that way. At least I was successfull with this method last year at the birds, but for sure the bar is always being raised (Kevin hebert especially) so i dont know how effective this method will be moving forward. if you ask Kevin, you can copy and paist his answer here
Paul L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2012, 08:20 AM   #1973
Tech Elite
 
jlfx car audio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: jackson,tn
Posts: 3,342
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

Paul as always tks for answering my questions .
I have yet another , let me set the stage.... traction is coming up thru out the day ...
Theirs a small bump 15' from the sweeper.
As I let off the throttle to turn into sweeper (gently ) rear end comes around ( ur Cleveland set up)but not every time . If I stay inthrottle it holds but being lane is only 6' wide and sweeper isnt ideally curved ..... I'm not wanting to risk the high speed wreck...
I moved the rear inner to mid role center and removed .5camber (now at -1.5) if I come out of throttle any little bit car wants to lift and traction role if I stay in it it works great .
What other things could I have done to either keep it from TRing or being so loose ? Is it the bump upsetting the car ? I know just staying in it would be the fastest as Jim persol and skip darsky and the other oil pros did but its not worth the risk for me . I would rather be .2 slower and be consistent vs be fast on 28 laps and wreck the other 5... sorry to drag the question out . Tks
__________________
Justin & Matt Lyons
Awesomatix USA, EA motorsports, Sanwa, Protoform, Avid, Gravity Rc , TSR!
a800s sanwa m12s
jlfx car audio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2012, 09:03 AM   #1974
Gravity RC
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Wi
Posts: 1,147
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jlfx car audio View Post
Paul as always tks for answering my questions .
I have yet another , let me set the stage.... traction is coming up thru out the day ...
Theirs a small bump 15' from the sweeper.
As I let off the throttle to turn into sweeper (gently ) rear end comes around ( ur Cleveland set up)but not every time . If I stay inthrottle it holds but being lane is only 6' wide and sweeper isnt ideally curved ..... I'm not wanting to risk the high speed wreck...
I moved the rear inner to mid role center and removed .5camber (now at -1.5) if I come out of throttle any little bit car wants to lift and traction role if I stay in it it works great .
What other things could I have done to either keep it from TRing or being so loose ? Is it the bump upsetting the car ? I know just staying in it would be the fastest as Jim persol and skip darsky and the other oil pros did but its not worth the risk for me . I would rather be .2 slower and be consistent vs be fast on 28 laps and wreck the other 5... sorry to drag the question out . Tks
HI Justin. no problem.
First off I wouldnt worry much about the bump, anytime i start tuening a car for a bump it ends badly. I think that lowering the rear roll center was likely the right move, I think where you went wrong was taking static camber out of the rear, I would go back to 2deg or even 2.5deg of rear camber. secondly i would move your rear wing back on the body, this will plant the rear end at high speeds and also reduce traction roll signifigantly threw the sweeper, even 2mms will make a difference. On top of that i would try a thinner front bar, 1.3 from a 1.4mm bar will make the car more predictible do to the suspension travel not running in to the sway bar as much, especially with this set up BC the front does roll a lot. I dont have a 1.3mm front bar for the T4 yet but it might be availible.

That stuff should really help.

Thanks
Paul L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2012, 09:21 AM   #1975
Tech Champion
 
AdrianM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 5,914
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
Hi. Currently I do not run drag brake, but honestly with as fast as the cars keep going it may become or already be nessissary.
As you said tire choice is key for me on this subject now, normally i will use a soft front tire, this way you can kinda charge a corner and slow the car down with the soft front rubber. i dont know how to explain it well but i feel like a soft front tire is less edgy to begin with, this allows me to use more wheel throw entering a corner to help slow it down, you can almost slide the front end in and slow it down that way. At least I was successfull with this method last year at the birds, but for sure the bar is always being raised (Kevin hebert especially) so i dont know how effective this method will be moving forward. if you ask Kevin, you can copy and paist his answer here
Ask and ye shall receive...



Quote:
Originally Posted by Marx View Post
hi keven!!
very great show at the IIC! Congratulation!

May I ask you to indicate your Flow speedo setup in 1/12th scale?
I'm interested to understand the setup did you use in Las Vesas and Heemstede.
I can't find them anywhere.
TY
Quote:
Originally Posted by KevenH

Marx
Thank you. There is 2 setting I know works great. With the LRP motor 4.0, I used the Spec rotor that comes in the spec motor, not the works one. That seemed to be the fastest and most efficient. Than for ESC setting, I run a lot of drag brake so that you would have to adjust to your liking but here it go : 7/1/3/3/7/1/0 and with Reedy Motor 3.5 stock rotor, I ran 7/3/0/4/8/2/0
If he is being honest (and I think he is) that's the whole shebang. Boost, punch, brakes, dragbrake...everything.
__________________
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
AdrianM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2012, 10:10 AM   #1976
Tech Elite
 
jlfx car audio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: jackson,tn
Posts: 3,342
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
HI Justin. no problem.
First off I wouldnt worry much about the bump, anytime i start tuening a car for a bump it ends badly. I think that lowering the rear roll center was likely the right move, I think where you went wrong was taking static camber out of the rear, I would go back to 2deg or even 2.5deg of rear camber. secondly i would move your rear wing back on the body, this will plant the rear end at high speeds and also reduce traction roll signifigantly threw the sweeper, even 2mms will make a difference. On top of that i would try a thinner front bar, 1.3 from a 1.4mm bar will make the car more predictible do to the suspension travel not running in to the sway bar as much, especially with this set up BC the front does roll a lot. I dont have a 1.3mm front bar for the T4 yet but it might be availible.

That stuff should really help.

Thanks
Kool tks so if I grasp the concept of allowing the front to role more wile off power it will keep it from traction rolling?
Never thought of the rear wing location ...
With the added role in the front with thinner sway bar would it drag more in the fast corners ?
Just trying to understand the changes so I can apply more confidently in various situations .
Since again thanks paul
__________________
Justin & Matt Lyons
Awesomatix USA, EA motorsports, Sanwa, Protoform, Avid, Gravity Rc , TSR!
a800s sanwa m12s
jlfx car audio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2012, 02:46 PM   #1977
Tech Elite
 
DesertRat's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sniffin the 'Sauce Fumes
Posts: 2,649
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Thanks Paul, I will break out the Soft fronts (Gravity, of course, for some reason I have a hard time chunking them...) and see if I can get it to work.
__________________
I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
Current rides: Diggity DC4 Chassis #10. Losi JRX-S Type R. CRC Xi (retired), CRC Altered Ego Aluminum Chassis. Associated B4 based dirt oval late model.
WTB: Carpet racing in Arizona.
DesertRat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2012, 10:20 AM   #1978
Gravity RC
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Wi
Posts: 1,147
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
Ask and ye shall receive...







If he is being honest (and I think he is) that's the whole shebang. Boost, punch, brakes, dragbrake...everything.
Thanks. Nothing like a little snooping, lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jlfx car audio View Post
Kool tks so if I grasp the concept of allowing the front to role more wile off power it will keep it from traction rolling?
Never thought of the rear wing location ...
With the added role in the front with thinner sway bar would it drag more in the fast corners ?
Just trying to understand the changes so I can apply more confidently in various situations .
Since again thanks paul
In general I do not think that the front rolling more will neccissarily cause less traction roll. I think traction roll is almost always caused by the suspension recieving a instant amount of load or change (load or inconsistencys from the suspension transfered quickly to the track threw the tire can cause traction roll). A front sway bar dose not really do anything untill the car rolls a certain amount, then it acts quickly. So the stiffer the sway bar the more abrupt that transition is, from not doing much to doing a lot. So in this case I think the soft front bar will traction roll less, or atleast it normally does.

I hope that is a little more clear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
Thanks Paul, I will break out the Soft fronts (Gravity, of course, for some reason I have a hard time chunking them...) and see if I can get it to work.
Cool, Thanks
Paul L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2012, 10:47 AM   #1979
Tech Master
 
Leester's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Wrong Planet
Posts: 1,014
Trader Rating: 21 (96%+)
Default

Paul, you have a PM.

Lee
Leester is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2012, 11:38 AM   #1980
Tech Master
 
samnelso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Fitchburg, MA
Posts: 1,751
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul L View Post

If the car is getting loose only at the end of the run i would pick one of many set up changes that will make the car push a bit more, then i would sauce the front tires more aggressive (either sauce more of the front tire or if already full front, sauce the fronts longer). in making a set up change for less steering then saucing more front tire you should get about the same handling that you like now at the begining of the run, but then at the end of the run when it would normally get loose you should retain the stability with the set up change.
Possible set up changes: less front camber, more rear camber, more rear toe, move weight forward. also shorter front wheelbase, but compinsate with steering links for the ackermann change. example: 1mm shorter front wheelbase, take out 1mm shims from your steering bell crank.
Good stuff Paul. Thanks for this.
__________________
Team Associated | Reedy | Airtronics

RC Excitement: Fitchburg, MA | RC Madness: Enfield, CT | Horsham RC
samnelso is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Around The Table With Paul Lemieux(RC-America/Thunderpower) Paul L Electric On-Road 1384 12-18-2009 08:06 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:00 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net