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Old 08-29-2012, 07:56 AM   #1831
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Hi Paul.
Thanx for the reply.

The next race is on a medium small track with a long straight on 40 meters.
It has 1 large 45 degrees turns on each side, and has 5 180degrees turns.

I have the latest software and a standard 13.5T motor. No special rotor.

When I go on a larger track, will the main changes a couple of teeth down on the pinion?

Thank you for your help!

Best regards

OJ
Hi OJ. will give you a couple set ups. no guarantees but this is what i would start with. I assume you are running boosted but i will give you a non boost set up as well just in case.

Non boost speedo with stock rotor: 4.7 overall ratio, 30 deg timing.
Non boost speedo with green rotor: 4.5 overall ratio, 33deg timing.
as always keep an eye on temps to make sure it is not getting over 90c, 80-85C is the target, I reccommend a fan on the motor, I think that the green rotor set up would be best.

For boosted i would tune the speedo to the temp (start slow and turn the speedo up until you see the target 80-85deg temp). with any of the rotors i would time the motor 25deg, gear it at 5.7 overall and start turning it up. with the LRP you can start the timing at value 4 and go up one step at a time measuring the temp all the way. Again, that is just where i would start, i could be wrong.

Thanks, good luck.

If anyone wants to jump in please feel free (40meters is 130ft) and 85c is 185f.




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Originally Posted by MD View Post
Hi Paul,
I have an Xray 008 I've been attempting to run in VTA and my car is very loose on power on exit. It has the locked front diff or spool. I have tried just about everything; ride height, camber, shock oil, springs, more rear toe, and if I have good tires on the front and back the car is loose on exit. If I use bald front vintage tires and good tires on the back it's better. But, at a VTA race there has to be some tread on both the front and rear. Thanks.
Mike
(Hadley RC Club)
Hi Mike. First i would make sure that your front wheelbase is short (front arms all the way back), and make sure that your rear wheelbase is long (rear arms all the way back). also make sure that your steering bell-crank (Notches) is full short, after that i would try 2deg caster blocks and or a 1.4mm rear sway bar. All of those should help a lot. if it persists then place 14grams of weight in the front bumper (more forward weight will help).

Thanks!

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Originally Posted by Troy Carter View Post
Hey Paul,

I hope you had a relaxing time at the Nationals and enjoyed your stay.

Can you share your setup for that race?

Thanks,
I will be posting a set up soon. Thanks

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Originally Posted by Diggity View Post
Yo Paul, Its Damon.... I just sent you a PM, check it out and get back with me.
yup
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:37 AM   #1832
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Paul,
Thanks.
Mike
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Old 08-29-2012, 12:06 PM   #1833
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Hi Paul.


Thank you for your advice!
I will try setting 4 in timing and 9 in boost as a start (Itīs a boosted class).
I hope that will be ok.
I usually have 50-55 celsius - I have much fun ahead

OJ
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Old 09-03-2012, 01:54 PM   #1834
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Default Roll centers

Hi Paul,
I was checking out some of your carpet setups and I was looking at your Roll center on some of the setups. You have higher roll centers in the front of the car. I was just curios why you had lower roll centers in the rear of car?
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Old 09-03-2012, 02:11 PM   #1835
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Paul,
Thanks.
Mike
No prob!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Viking73 View Post
Hi Paul.


Thank you for your advice!
I will try setting 4 in timing and 9 in boost as a start (Itīs a boosted class).
I hope that will be ok.
I usually have 50-55 celsius - I have much fun ahead

OJ
Good luck


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Originally Posted by King of B Main View Post
Hi Paul,
I was checking out some of your carpet setups and I was looking at your Roll center on some of the setups. You have higher roll centers in the front of the car. I was just curios why you had lower roll centers in the rear of car?
Yes, normally when i run carpet i like the car to roll over the rear more, running a higher front hinge pin just gives it that balance and keeps the front end up a bit more in the corner. Although last year at the IIC and snowbirds the winners car did roll a lot over the nose and turned a lot. (Naito and alex). their cars looked to me like my car would with a lower front pin than rear. Maybe i am missing a piece of the puzzle but i still prefer the way that a car drives on carpet with the higher front pin. we will see in testing for Vegas if i can tune away from doing that this year.

Thanks
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Old 09-03-2012, 02:36 PM   #1836
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Hi Paul,

I'm thinking of running mod 1/12th on carpet ( TZ II size track ). Can you suggest which TP motor wind you'd use and if you find that it is better to run boost or not. Is there a noticeable tradeoff with efficiency ( fade ) and driveability one way or the other ( low wind vs high-er wind with "boost" ) ?

Jake

p.s. best of luck at IIC !!
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Old 09-03-2012, 05:34 PM   #1837
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Hi Paul,

I'm thinking of running mod 1/12th on carpet ( TZ II size track ). Can you suggest which TP motor wind you'd use and if you find that it is better to run boost or not. Is there a noticeable tradeoff with efficiency ( fade ) and driveability one way or the other ( low wind vs high-er wind with "boost" ) ?

Jake

p.s. best of luck at IIC !!

Hi Jake. I normally use a TP 4.0 motor with a stock green rotor, not stock as in what it comes with, but stock as in the optional green rotor that they make for 13.5/17.5's "stock" motors. I would boost it. if you go boosted i would start at 20deg timing at96/25 and play with boost until you are comfortable. I would also try non boosted just to see it for yourself, if you do that you will want to be at 25deg timing and 96/28 or 29 to start. PS i would put a fan on the speedo just to be safe, your speedo can get very hot. motor temp is never a issue.

Thanks
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Old 09-03-2012, 06:59 PM   #1838
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Thanks !
and I just happen to have the green rotor ! Will run an esc fan too.... very good to know....
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Old 09-04-2012, 04:18 AM   #1839
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Do you run a 20 or 30g center-balance weight (or any balancing weight) on your t3 '12 when running on carpet?
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Old 09-04-2012, 07:47 AM   #1840
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I I also hold the tires down while checking the droop to allow you to feel when the suspension top's out. Thanks!



Hi.
I dont race 12th scale on a consistent enough basis to say for sure. I got 2 new packs for the birds in jan, in March they were still very good and i raced them at the nationals. also used them at a race in new york after and they were still fine, but when i went to cycle them for the worlds in july they had lost performance in every category so i did not use them. they were still fine to run but 30 or so sec short at 35Amps and the voltage was down. it might be a good idea to have a beater pack or two for practice and buy a new one or two every 4-6 months for racing.
Lets say i am to get 4 new battery's next year, i would want one new one every three months as apposed to 4 new ones right at the beginning of the year.

Hope that helps
Hello Paul, when you "cycle your battery's" and you say for instance in your answer above "they lost performance in every catagory" , can you please tell me what kind or make of machine/tester your using to figure this out and what paramiters you are looking at? do the batt's need a load put on them when tested or does the machine/tester do it during test? Thanks,basicaly i would like to start doing some kind of routine to my battery's to keep an eye on their performance but have no clue what to do in this area. Thanks so much in advance for any help you can or do give me/US.
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Old 09-06-2012, 07:40 AM   #1841
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Do you run a 20 or 30g center-balance weight (or any balancing weight) on your t3 '12 when running on carpet?
Sometimes yes. first off i will balance the car with whatever electronics lay out i have, if i need to add weight to one side or the other to do so, i will.
Then i will add whatever other weight i need to make the minumum weight limit +10G. That weight i will use as ballast as a tuning option. move it forward for more stability, back for more rotation.

Thanks


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Hello Paul, when you "cycle your battery's" and you say for instance in your answer above "they lost performance in every catagory" , can you please tell me what kind or make of machine/tester your using to figure this out and what paramiters you are looking at? do the batt's need a load put on them when tested or does the machine/tester do it during test? Thanks,basicaly i would like to start doing some kind of routine to my battery's to keep an eye on their performance but have no clue what to do in this area. Thanks so much in advance for any help you can or do give me/US.
If i am planning on running old battery's at a big race i will cycle them to make sure that they still have the needed performance to last 8min in 12th scale mod. I would never cycle a 2cell BC even the oldest 2cell battery will perform fine for me. A TurboThirtyGFX is how i cycle a battery when i need to. The charger market has gone compact. The TP610AC/DC does a great job of charging, its small, easy and plugs right in at around 100bucks. but to cycle a battery you would want 35amp or more discharge which none of the small chargers are capable of doing that.

Thanks
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:23 AM   #1842
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Paul,

When you say 5.7 overall for a 13.5t TP is that the big spur/motor pinion*car internal ratio?
Thanks.
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Old 09-07-2012, 06:46 AM   #1843
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Paul,

When you say 5.7 overall for a 13.5t TP is that the big spur/motor pinion*car internal ratio?
Thanks.
Hi. when i said 5.7 overall, i should have said 5.7FDR "Final Drive Ratio"
FDR is the spur divided by the pinion, multiplied by the cars internal ratio.

That FDR would be a starting point for boosted 13.5

Thanks
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Old 09-07-2012, 05:54 PM   #1844
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Thank you. Paul.
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:26 PM   #1845
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Hi Paul,
The suggestions you gave me have helped. As I mentioned I am running my 008 in VTA. What should the tension be on the belts? Currently, they are set on the factory recommended settings.
Thanks,
Mike
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